Twinsets aren’t just for old ladies – this is the stylish way to wear one now
Once a favourite of ladies who lunch – and most likely to be teamed with a string of pearls and a demure pleated skirt – the twinset has shaken off its old-fashioned reputation and became a stylish go-to this autumn.
Twinsets traditionally comprise a neat crew-neck jumper, usually with short sleeves, which is to be worn under a round-neck button-through cardigan (crucially, left undone) in a matching colour and material. Cashmere and polite pastel shades were popular choices during the twinset’s 1950s heyday – although any lightweight knit, such as merino or cotton, would receive approval.
The twinset was a go-to staple for both Grace Kelly and the late Queen Elizabeth II. But, in recent years the chic combination has been mothballed, as Zoom-worthy blouses and sweater vests took a moment in a spotlight. However, as the quiet luxury look continues to rule the catwalks and the high street, the twinset and its associations with the old money aesthetic are making a return. There seems to be nothing as elegant as a fine knitted co-ord – or as versatile.
In the last month, shopping platform LTK reported a 150 per cent rise in searches for “twinset” – although designers have consistently riffed on the two-piece staple to create their own contemporary takes on the classic, whatever the season. Khaite’s bra-digan (a bra + cardi combo) was worn by Katie Holmes in 2019 and became a viral hit (and instant sell out). This season, Prada subverted the ladylike connotations of the twinset and presented versions in quirky colour combinations such as purple and scarlet, and lime and baby pink.
Choosing a colour clash for your knitwear is one way you could give your twinset a modern twist – although creative director Nicola Rose posits a potential rebrand, too. She suggests that we abandon the phrase “twinset” and replace it with “knitted co-ord – as that’s what it really is!” It makes sense as co-ords are now part of our collective fashion vocabulary. Over the summer, John Lewis saw a surge in searches for co-ords (mainly skirts and tops) – and as two-piece options take up space on the rails of the high street, it seems British women are now reliant on the ease of a ready-styled set, rather than separates (which require a little more styling nous).
Ruth Rands is founder of British knitwear brand Herd and agrees that the twinset is definitely back on the fashion radar and resonating with her customers. Herd’s best-selling co-ord is the Wyre pointelle knit set, which comes in a cardigan, jumper and vest. “Our biggest fans have those twin sets in multiple colorways and they’ll email me to suggest new colours too,” reveals Rands, who believes the resurgence of the twinset is down to its versatility. “The twinset is easy to layer and while its 1950s heyday was associated with a prim conservatism, today that stereotype is subverted as we see it styled in a more relaxed way. Twinsets still have a sense of being smart but [today’s versions] are not uptight.”
Wyre vest in Loam, £195; Wyre cardigan in Loam, £375 (both Herd)
Orange cashmere cardigan, £95; Orange cashmere vest, £69 (both M&S)
Rose believes the two-piece twinset (or knitted co-ord) comeback is due to its aptness for our current weather. “Climate change means the seasons are never what you think they’ll be. Traditionally, as it gets to winter, we put coats on, but it’s not cold enough for a coat yet! So having a layering technique with knitwear gives us an easier way of staying warm and de-robing during the day, if you need to.”
As a styling trope, a sliver of white t-shirt under the collar of a round-neck knit has been a gateway for layering and a simple jumper on its own now seems too plain. Whether layering with jewellery, a faux collar or a neckerchief, the vogue this season is to avoid a naked neck. This is where the subtle layers of a twinset can add interest, without being overwhelming. Twinsets are also incredibly easy to style. Even those who protest they have no taste can easily team two matching garments together without making a faux pas.
Grey cashmere tank top, £120; Black cashmere cardigan, £250 (both Jigsaw)
Although, if contrasting the colours of the twinset’s components feels a step too far, how else can we ensure the duo looks contemporary? For Rose it’s all in the details. “A favourite trick of fashion editors is to fasten the cardigan, but have one button undone at the top. You could also wear the cardigan over your shoulders or wrap long sleeve styles around your neck, like a scarf.” They are all ways to update your look without actually wearing the top piece.
Previous generations would have most likely teamed their twinset with a sturdy skirt. Today, try the considered juxtaposition between rough denim and ladylike knit, which makes the combo unexpectedly fresh. Rose also suggests, “striped jogging pants (find the best at Me+Em) for a casual look or try leather trousers for more of a statement.” This season’s sequinned skirts would also take the twinset into an after dark moment, giving it a surprising twist. “Add an earring, add a heel and you’ve got a ‘wow’ evening look,” Rose advises. “Twinsets are not just for casual occasions.”
Women’s Classic Round Neck Cashmere Jumper In Scarlet, £295; Women’s Classic Round Neck Cashmere Cardigan In Scarlet, £325 (both Pringle of Scotland)
At Chinti & Parker, co-founder Rachael Wood believes the twinset transcends the trends; “Knitwear has shifted away from being a loungewear item towards proper ready to wear and a twinset… has always been a classic.”
As part of its Basics collection of mix and match cashmere essentials, Wood has ensured Chinti & Parker offers plenty of options for layering. “Whether it’s a tank and a cardigan or a t-shirt and sweater, layering allows our customer to take the stress out of dressing in the morning. Twinsets are an easy way to look put together for the day. And they’re comfortable.” As fashion trends go, who could ask for more?
Animal print vest, £89.95; Animal cardigan, £129 (both Massimo Dutti)