Tod’s Fall 2025: Where Art Meets Fashion
Imagine walking into Milan’s Museum of Contemporary Art PAC to catch the Tod’s fall show and seeing Carla Bruni perched on a high pedestal, poured into sculptural dress that spilled onto the floor made from recycled leather fragments and holding a needle as the symbol of craftsmanship. It was quite a sight and made for an Instragrammable moment if ever there was one.
However, this installation by artist Nelly Agassi reflected owner Diego Della Valle’s goal of a lifetime — to celebrate the artisanal intelligence of the brand’s artisans.
More from WWD
Creative director Matteo Tamburini has embraced Della Valle’s vision and since his arrival at the brand at the end of 2023 has evolved his designs with an increasing confidence.
The fall collection was a step further in his narrative and it was convincing. He was inspired by the museum and its history, explaining backstage how the venue was built in the early 1950s and was destroyed in a terrorist attack in 1993. Its refurbishment thus symbolizes “resilience and rebirth from its roots,” similarly to the brand’s own evolution while staying true to its heritage. As a space that showcases art, Tamburini looked to artists Carla Accardi, Alberto Burri and Lucio Fontana, but he cautioned that the inspiration was not literal, but instead explored “how they treated the fabrics.”
Cue a beautiful brushed alpaca coat with black-and-white swirls reminiscent of an Accardi abstract painting or Fontana’s technical severity reflected in the sharp and structured tailored coats. These also came in a new double-breasted style in mohair, where the buttons were positioned more on the side of the coats, which modernized the classic garment. The silhouette was elongated and formfitting.
A cotton trench with a printed furry texture had a trompe l’oeil effect. For a more traditional look, Irina Shayk wore a beautiful belted trench in leather that spoke volumes about Tod’s expertise.
Tamburini continued to make use of the finest Pashmy suede or napa in bombers, and used double-layer cashmere in oversize peacoats with leather details.
Tod’s gommino was revisited in napped python, and the brand’s signature W.G. ankle boot was reinvented as a brushed Chelsea boot, flanking several riding boots.
The patchwork on the Di Bag Folio, in maxi and small versions, was also inspired by the artistic installation and the Wave bag was made lighter and softer.
As Della Valle said ahead of the show, with artisanal intelligence “we put men at the center of the stage, and machines will never replace our artisans.” Nor the creative directors who lead a brand with conviction and fresh ideas.
Launch Gallery: Tod's Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.