The Spring Runways Are Full of '90s- and 2000s-Inspired Hairstyles

Stephanie Saltzman

13 September 2023 at 3:39 pm·4-min read

<p>Photo: Albert Urso/Getty Images</p> — Photo: Albert Urso/Getty Images

Fashion has been full-on obsessed with referencing the '90s and early 2000s for quite a while now, and we've seen this influence on the runways again and again over the past few seasons. But for Spring 2024, the era seems to be particularly impactful in shaping the hair aesthetics of the shows. From Kate Moss-inspired deep side parts to punky dye jobs and pin-straight Avril Lavigne-esque moments, throwback hairstyles are all over the New York runways.

As part of a trend prediction report for the season compiled by TreSemmé and forecasting agency WGSN, both "'90s grunge" and "the 2000s rock scene" were cited as likely references for Spring 2024 hair looks — and that's certainly proven to be the case.

At Christian Siriano's 15th-anniversary show, hairstylist Lacy Redway (for TreSemmé) created an undeniably Avril Lavigne-esque stick-straight look — which she then creatively accented with makeshift pink ribbon hair extensions in a nod to the collection's ballet-core inspiration. Meanwhile, for Palomo Spain's Spring 2024 runway, hairstylist Sarah Lund (for Kevin Murphy) styled models' hair into loop ponytails and braids accented with "peek-a-book red panels" in "a cool nod to the '90s," per the stylist.

Helmut Lang Spring 2024.<p>Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight</p> — Helmut Lang Spring 2024.
Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

For Peter Do's debut at Helmut Lang, hairstylist Jawara (for Bumble and Bumble and Dyson) wanted a "gritty, grungy New York feel," citing "some inspiration from the Helmut Lang show in the '90s" as the genesis for a look that was "kind of dirty." But, you know, in a chic way.

He created two different hairstyles for the show: One that featured the eye-poke-y stretchy comb headbands that were a late-'90s staple; and another that he described as a "clean '90s knot," which he held in place with a thin ribbon of fabric.

A different take on similar themes cropped up at Sandy Liang's show, for which hairstylist Marin Mullen (for Bread) drew inspiration from "the '90s posh grunge aesthetic" and added "a touch of dorkiness." This translated to a variety of different looks, each adorned with rhinestone-accented floral hair accessories that channeled a similar energy to the butterfly clips that were so ubiquitous in the late '90s and early 2000s.

Then there was Staud's Spring 2024 show; the collection itself was brimming with '90s minimalism, and to accompany it, hairstylist Renato Campora (for TreSemmé) looked to a legend who in many ways defined '90s chicness: Kate Moss. While he created several looks for the show, the standout style was a sleek, deeply side-parted one that channeled the model in her heyday.

Staud Spring 2024.<p>Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight</p> — Staud Spring 2024.
Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

"Kate Moss, that was the idea — the look at the time that she had, a side part behind the ears, very super simple. That's where it all started," Campora told Fashionista backstage.

Campora, who began his prolific career in hair back in the '90s, also reflected on why the era seems to have such a resonance in fashion and beauty right now: "People always think of the '90s because it was a beautiful moment. The economy was amazing, the fashion, the magazines — it was booming," he says. "I remember, I was in Paris, witnessing all of this behind the scenes when all of the top models, Linda [Evangelista], Christy Turlington, would do all those fashion shows. I witnessed it, it was a beautiful moment in fashion."

Ahead, see all the '90s and early 2000s-inspired hairstyles we spotted on the New York Spring 2024 runways.

Sandy Liang Spring 2024. Photo: Courtesy of Estée Lauder

Sandy Liang Spring 2024. Photo: Courtesy of Estée Lauder

Sandy Liang Spring 2024. Photo: Maya Spangler/Courtesy of Bread Beauty Supply

Sandy Liang Spring 2024. Photo: Courtesy of Estée Lauder

Helmut Lang Spring 2024. Photo: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Helmut Lang Spring 2024. Photo: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Helmut Lang Spring 2024. Photo: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

<p>Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight</p> — Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Helmut Lang Spring 2024. Photo: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images