How to spend the perfect holiday in Cyprus
Although Cyprus has a plethora of trendy resort towns with award-winning beaches and tavernas, along with its capital Nicosia at its core, it is also home to some of the world’s finest archaeological treasures. Paphos, for instance, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in its entirety, while the remains of ancient settlements can be found at the metropolis of Limassol and Larnaca.
Inland, the countryside is dotted with unspoilt villages. It is blanketed by olive groves and vineyards where grapes are turned into fine wines, including the world’s oldest named wine, originating around 800BC, Commandaria. It is famed for being served to Richard the Lionheart at his wedding in Limassol in 1191.
Cyprus manages the tricky task of combining history and modernity with aplomb as seen by the growing number of shiny new skyscrapers, galleries, malls, beaches and ultra trendy marinas.
For further Cyprus inspiration, see our guides devoted to the island’s best hotels, restaurants, things to do and beaches.
In this guide
How to spend your holiday
Day One
Morning
Paphos is a good place to start your explorations of the island. If time is of the essence head straight for the harbour area. Here, the Kato Pafos Archaeological Park is dominated by its mosaics that depict scenes from Greek mythology, considered by UNESCO to be among the finest in the world. Close by is the medieval fort – look for the short flight of steps inside leading to the roof for a breezy view of seafront.
Next, follow the signs for Agia Kyraki and St Paul’s Pillar where the apostle Paul is said to have taught the Christian gospel to the people of Cyprus in 45AD. It’s a short walk. You will pass Hondros, which is one of the oldest traditional tavernas in Paphos and a good place to take a coffee break.
Tombs of the Kings where Hellenistic dignitaries were buried in underground tombs is easy to reach by car or bus in a few minutes and considered a must-do sight of Paphos. For lunch try Muse. Its chicken souvlaki marinated in yoghurt is heavenly.
Afternoon
Follow the signs for Limassol (spelled locally as Lemesos). It’s an easy drive along the highway. Look out for views of the Troodos Mountains on the way to the ancient city kingdom of Curium (also spelt Kourion). Here, you can see mosaics, the remains of an agora and cathedral, and an ancient theatre where operatic performances are often held.
Limassol is a trendy sort of place and nowadays tends to radiate around its new, shiny marina where you can gaze at yachts and sip on a local wine – Limassol is famed for its wines – or shop in its designer outlets. A walk along its lengthy, palm tree-fringed seafront is a must.
Evening
Enjoy Mediterranean dishes like octopus encased in pastry with olives at Vivaldi by Mavrommatis in the luxurious Four Season Hotel on the seafront, or dine at Japanese-Peruvian themed restaurant Matsuhisa at the Amara Hotel – the black cod with miso is divine.
Day Two
Morning
As you make your way out of Limassol on the coast road you’ll catch sight of the archaeological site of Amathus. This ancient city-kingdom dates way back to before 300BC and, although today quite a small site, it is worthy of a quick stop.
Next, head to Choirokoitia where you can see the reconstructed circular homes where the Cypriot people of Neolithic times would have lived. The village of Lefkara is famous for its intricate handmade lace, known as lefkaritika, and makes an ideal coffee stop before heading to the capital of Cyprus, Nicosia.
The city is one of the last remaining divided cities in the world as a result of the Turkish invasion in 1974. Venetian walls dominate the city; visit the Archbishop’s Palace and its museum containing an extraordinary collection of Byzantine icons. The neighouring St John’s Cathedral is famed for its colourful frescos depicting scenes from the Bible. For lunch, try Pantopoleio Kali Orexi for a treat of psefdokeftedes meatballs flavoured with feta cheese and oregano.
Afternoon
Bustling coastal resort Larnaca is a relatively short drive away, taking you past rolling Cypriot countryside. Look out for Stavrovouni Monastery perched high on a hill. Here, you can visit the picturesque 9th century church of Saint Lazaros, which is famous for being built over the tomb of biblical figure Lazarus of Bethany. A short stroll away find Foinikoudas beach. Don’t miss the opportunity to walk along this attractive stretch of beach lined with palm trees.
Evening
Enjoy some authentic local dishes as part of a mezze at To Kazani. A wide selection of small plates will be brought to your table and might comprise koupepia (stuffed vine leaves), kleftiko (slow cooked lamb) or souvlaki (skewered chicken).
Insider Tips
City hack
The museums and archaeological sites are all operated by the government’s tourist board and, as such, are inexpensive. The Kato Pafos Archaeological in Paphos for example, despite being an UNESCO World Heritage site, is just €4.5 admission, or €7 to include the Tombs of the Kings.
Attractions
If you are planning to spend a day exploring Nicosia within its mighty walls it is best to leave your car in the parking areas outside. The most central car park is at the Tripoli Bastion, just south of Paphos Gate. The network of small streets and buildings within the walled city are best explored on foot.
Neighbourhood watch
Ledra Street in Nicosia is something of a magnet for shopping enthusiasts. This long street is lined with shops. However, perhaps its biggest draw, is its lookout platform. Ascend to the 11th floor of the Shacolas Building for a panoramic view of the walled city.
Did you know?
There are no less than ten ancient painted churches in the Troodos Mountains housing some of the world’s finest examples of Byzantine religious art. They are protected by their UNESCO World Heritage status and many have been restored. Tourist offices may be able to contact the churches’ caretakers ahead of your visit to ensure they are open.
Hotels
While most of the hotels in Cyprus are on the resorts’ seafronts or within a short walk of the beach, don’t be afraid of booking one that is off the beaten track. Look at the Akamas Peninsula near Polis Chrysochous in the west, the Troodos Mountains or the Cape Greco Peninsula near Agia Napa in the east for a nature-inspired holiday.
Where to stay
Luxury living
Hotels may vie for being the island’s best, but the Anassa always comes out on top. Given its tranquil location on the fringes of Cyprus’s Akamas national park, and luxury amenities like a seriously opulent spa and gourmet cuisine, it is easy to see why. Hidden behind mature greenery, this whitewashed, tiered, multi-award-winning hotel gently cascades down to the sandy beach of Chrysochou Bay – its waters are close enough for a swim before breakfast. It is an effortlessly elegant sort of place, refined without being showy.
From
£ 353
pn
Rates provided by Booking.com
Boutique beauty
Lokàl Hotel is full of surprises. The façade of the centuries-old mansion in which it is housed hides a fabulous interior that is seriously cutting edge. There’s a glass-floored bridge, glass rooftop pool and bar, lots of hi-tech gizmos and a gourmet bistro. It’s a fusion that works. Stepping inside the 19th-century listed mansion that for years stood empty and derelict, and now houses this welcoming, family-run, adults-only boutique hotel, will take your breath away. Its old wooden beams and traditional Cypriot stone archways now provide a backdrop to an edgy new look.
From
£ 94
pn
Rates provided by Booking.com
Budget bolthole
The Greek word “philoxenia” loosely (and reductively) translates as “hospitality”. But if you want to know its true meaning, visit the outstanding family-run Aphrodite Beach Hotel overlooking pebbly Yiannis Beach, near Akamas Peninsula National Park, where all – including an assortment of rescued animals – are given sanctuary. Spacious, comfortable rooms and dining areas are all tricked out in neutral colours with marble floors. You might think you’ll miss the automated this, that or the other, the posh toiletries, the tennis courts, the luxury brought to you by the world’s best hotel designers, but once inside this hotel, it will weave its charm over you, and you’ll see that all you really need is philoxenia.
From
£ 68
pn
Rates provided by Booking.com
What to bring home
One of the best souvenirs to take home from your stay in Cyprus is a bottle of Commandaria. This delicious, amber-coloured wine originated in around 800BC. It is one of the world’s oldest named wines.
The landscape across the island is blanketed by olive trees and, as such, the harvest in November is an important time in the Cyprus calendar. The resulting olive oil is delicious and could easily rival some of the world’s leading producers.
Know before you go
British Embassy/Consulate: Alexander Pallis Street, Nicosia; 00 357 22861100; fcdo.gov.uk
Tourist offices
Lefkosia (Nicosia): Aristokyprou 11, Laiki Geitonia (east of Eleftheria’s Square), 1011 Lefkosia. Tel: + 357 22674264
Lemesos (Limassol): Plateia Michalis Kakogiannis, Old Port, Building THK1 3047 Lemesos. Tel: + 357 25362756
Platres: 4820 Platres. Tel : + 357 25421316
Larnaka: Plateia Vasileos Pavlou, 6023 Larnaka. Tel: + 357 24654322
Pafos: Agoras 8, 8010 Pafos. Tel: + 357 26932841
Polis: Vasileos Stasioikou A’ 2, 8020 Polis Chrysochous. Tel: + 357 26322468
Agia Napa: Leoforos Kryou Nerou 12, 5330 Agia Napa. Tel: + 357 23721796
Protaras - Paralimni: Protara 14, 5296 Protaras – Paralimni. Tel : + 357 23832865
The basics
Visit Cyprus website: visitcyprus.com
Ambulance 112
Police 112
Fire 112
Emergency services 112
Currency Euro
Telegraph code from abroad 00 357
Time difference +2 hours GMT
Travel time from London 4.5 hours
Local laws and etiquette
The law of Cyprus is based heavily on British law and, as such, crimes of a violent or sexual nature, trafficking, drug use or supply, and thief is not tolerated and will be referred to the judicial system without hesitation.
About the author
Carole French is Telegraph Travel’s Cyprus expert. She was captivated by the island two decades ago and lives in a village surrounded by her own olive groves near Paphos. When not exploring archaeological sites she’s probably sipping Brandy Sours.
