Songzio Offered Up a Patchwork of Baroque and Eastern References for Fall 2025
Designer Jay Song often takes painting as his starting point. This season, his second offering a coed lineup, he played with Baroque references inspired by portraits by Diego Velázquez, specifically the
“picadill” collar, which gave the collection its name.
His version, crafted from creased leather reinforced with hidden layers of aluminum and paired with matching cuffs that emerged from the sleeves, had a starched look. Nodding to its forbears, which were a reference of status, his version was slightly off-kilter, adding drama to the plays on volume of his silhouettes. There were also crinkled hats atop several looks, accentuating the period feel that worked well as a contrast with styles that looked minimal from a distance but were far from it.
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“We tried to mix the Western baroque aesthetics with our Eastern, oriental, avant-garde aesthetics, in a convergence of different times and West and East,” the designer summed up. Designing for women too “really helps us to experiment with different silhouettes,” he said. “There’s lots more inspiration to express what we want to.”
He played with proportion, offering up voluminous tops or jodhpur pants that accentuated the hips in contrast with cinched ankles, or alternately fitted tops paired with wide, voluble skirts and pants, several put together from a multitude of flaps of fabric.
Patchworking was key, often done tone-on-tone in shades of black, gray or tobacco, with asymmetric piecework combining up to seven fabrics including tweed, waxed cotton, velvet, satin and leather, stitched together to create a soft armor-like effect in contrasting textures. Key to the look were some appealing outerwear options including chunky belted coats in bouclé wool and outsized shearling jackets.
His own paintings inspired by Velázquez’s work featured on a couple of designs, with a sweatshirt depicting a cardinal with the slogan “father” splashed across.
Launch Gallery: Songzio Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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