A Snob’s Guide to Thailand
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Thailand has long been one of the most coveted destinations for Americans. Which is not surprising: there is truly something for every type of traveler, from bustling cities to beautiful beaches and remote jungles, tantalizing street food to boundless fine dining, peaceful Buddhist temples to roaring Muay Thai arenas, and, of course, no shortage of incredible luxury stays.
But with so much to do and so many destinations within the country, many first-timers are often left feeling paralyzed by the abundance of options. Just where, exactly, should you go? Luckily, we have a new north star: The White Lotus, which, apart from it being must-watch appointment television, has become a sort of personal travel concierge for millions of viewers, too. Just as the first two seasons of the HBO hit sent hardcore fans scampering off to Maui and Taormina, Sicily, for stays at each locale’s luxe Four Seasons resort, season 3 will undoubtedly spawn a number of Thailand itineraries. Even the Tourism Authority of Thailand is preparing for the influx—it launch a dedicated website promoting its involvement in the show and what visitors can expect to find across its three featured locales: Bangkok, Koh Samui, and Phuket. We’ll do you one better and give you our own recommendations, with the very best places to stay, eat, sightsee, and more.
KOH SAMUI
While Thailand has an enviable assortment of islands, each with its own distinctive appeal, Koh Samui might be the most surefire crowdpleaser of them all. It’s well-connected and easily accessible, with a wide array of excellent hotels and resorts ringing around the island’s coast.
Where to Stay
A who’s who of luxury hotel groups has a presence on Koh Samui, and the very best of the bunch happens to be the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui—located in the otherwise largely quiet northwest corner of the island—where our White Lotus friends have been spending some of their time this season. The all-villa property’s accommodations are spread across a lush, hilly terrain that was once a coconut farm; some 850 coconut trees remain scattered across its grounds. The villas are done up in classic Thai style and feature expansive private decks with plunge pools, as well as some of the best room service on the planet in the form of a private moo kra ta Thai BBQ feast. But do leave your room occasionally to soak in the 164-foot infinity pool at the beach and luxuriate in a treatment at the Secret Garden Spa.
The Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort also gets some screen time on the show (it stands in for the White Lotus lobby, driveway, and jewelry store). Bophut (or Bo Put) is a popular hub on the island's northeast, and a stay here offers what, for many, is an ideal combination: secluded serenity when relaxing at the property, but also immediate access to some of the island’s tourist attractions. If you’re in the mood to turn up the volume, guests receive shuttle service and entry to sister brand Avani Chaweng’s Seen Beach Club.
Two more top contenders include the Six Senses Samui, with 67 private pool-touting villas immersed in a jungle setting, and the Banyan Tree Samui, a 36-acre property in the quiet central-east coast of the island offering both beach and jungle environs. The property’s 88 villas feature some of the largest private pools you’re bound to find at any resort, more akin to lap lanes than “plunge” pools.
What to Do
If all you did on Koh Samui was stay in your lounge chair and sip on a frozen drink or two, you have done no wrong. For those looking for more activity or adventure, however, there are waterfalls to hike and explore, ATV tours aplenty, snorkeling excursions, and, of course, the Muay Thai matches, with two different stadiums hosting events throughout the week. Get a dose of culture by visiting Wat Phra Yai, home to the island’s famed Big Buddha. If more peaceful vibes are in order, the Wat Plai Laem compound offers an intriguing destination with its unique temple architecture and statues.
Spending a few hours at Coco Tam’s is a rite of passage for any visitor to Koh Samui. Make a reservation for a few bean bag chairs on the sand and take in the bustling scene, which includes nightly fire performances. Combine it with a stroll through Fisherman’s Village and its many shops and restaurants. But a word of warning: the area is bound to be jam-packed, as most of the island’s tourist attractions are, so consider visiting the Chaweng Walking Market for another night market that might feel a bit more local and approachable.
BANGKOK
You’d be remiss if you visited Thailand and didn’t spend any time in its frenetic capital city. Skip the backpacker locales and stay on the right path with this cheat sheet.
Where to Stay
Bangkok is sprawling and chaotic, and many of its finest hotels are nestled along the snaking curves of the Chao Phraya River. Consider the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, which viewers will be getting a glimpse of during season 3. This legendary property dates back to 1876, when it became the first international hotel built in the country and was known simply as the Oriental. Almost 150 years later, it remains the flagship of the modern M.O. group and a choice that’s hard to argue with when it comes time to select your Bangkok abode.
While not featured in The White Lotus, the Siam fits the vibe and aesthetic better than any other in town. The former historic estate was turned into a lush urban retreat alongside the river with impeccable style and décor, courtesy of designer Bill Bensley, and an enormous assortment of artwork, vintage photography, and artifacts supplied by the family who operates the hotel. The sultry hideaway features just 28 suites and 10 villas, a hot riverside pool, and the well-named Opium Spa, with treatments touted as the next best thing to its namesake.
Or, keep it on brand at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River, where top-tier hospitality complements an incredible setting, immersive art displays, and the utmost in swanky, contemporary style. Property highlights include its pool deck, an array of award-winning dining outposts, and a fabulous fitness center and spa.
Where to Eat
You’re in Bangkok to eat. Start on a high with the stunning modern interpretations of classic Thai flavors found within Lahnyai’s creative tasting menu. Nahm and Sorn are also two excellent fine dining hot spots when you’re craving multi-hour extravaganzas with all the bells and whistles.
While those Michelin stars are great and all, you have to get in on the street food fun in Bangkok, too. Stop into Chatuchak Market and Ban Tag Thong to get your fill. Elsewhere, many of the best spots are huddled together down back alleys or sois. Ask your hotel concierge for a recommendation to one hidden near you, or easily accessible via a tuk tuk ride.
Wash it all down with a bar crawl; Bangkok features one of Asia’s most dynamic cocktail scenes. BKK Social Club is a renowned destination for its hospitality, showy environs, and thematic menu. Just a few of the other names to know include Teens of Thailand, Tropic City, Vesper, Bamboo Bar, and Mahaniyom.
What to Do
Now you’re going to need to get some steps in and sweat some of that excess out. The heat and humidity will certainly help with that, and so will the “big three” of Bangkok must-sees: the stunning, shimmering Grand Palace, Wat Pho and its gigantic reclining Buddha, and the colorful stupas of Wat Arun. If you’re game for even more, tack on the Golden Mount temple and Wat Phraw Kaew (considered the most sacred Buddhist temple in Thailand), or take a trip to one of the city’s many floating markets.
PHUKET
Phuket is a love-it-or-hate-it kind of place for many travelers—in part because of the hard-partying crowd it tends to attract (try not to give the place a bad name yourself!)—but when you do it the right way, you’ll come away a convert.
Where to Stay
The White Lotus stops into another Anantara property on the island of Phuket: the Anantara Mai Khao. The property is located near Phuket’s northern tip and consists of a combination of suites, plus pavilions and pool villas, the latter of which are positioned around a lagoon in the fashion of a traditional Thai village. Sea turtles use Mai Khao Beach as a nesting site, and the property works to protect them and preserve the landscape.
One of Aman’s most iconic properties, as well as its very first (it opened in 1988), is also here. The 60-acre Amanpuri has spectacular private villas and pavilions designed to cater to its clientele’s every whim and is home to a cutting-edge holistic wellness center and the indulgent Spa House. And that storybook setting—with views around every corner—is hard to beat.
To get closer to the action, head to the Rosewood Phuket (The White Lotus filmed its dinner scenes at the restaurant here), where accommodations range from suites to villas on a pristine slice of beach alongside Emerald Bay. And it’s just down the road from Patong Beach—though thankfully feels a world removed—and features an extensive lineup of its own house experiential programming and activities, along with the highly touted Asaya Spa.
What to Do
Let’s just cut to the chase—Phuket has a rowdy reputation. If it’s your first time on the island, you’re at least going to want to wander around Patong and get a sense of its nightlife. Whether you dip your toes, jump right in, or decide to steer clear altogether is up to you. Feel free to Google what you can expect to find.
Elsewhere, the Old Town offers a combination of shops and restaurants amid preserved Sino-Portuguese architecture, as well as a night market. Phuket also has its own Big Buddha—take that, Koh Samui—located near the south of the island.
Perhaps the most compelling reason to visit is the opportunity to explore the surrounding landscape of the Andaman Sea. That includes Phang Nga Bay National Park, whose jagged, narrow islands steeply rising from crystalline waters are common and recognizable movie backdrops. Then there’s Ko Phi Phi, itself the setting for the Leo DiCaprio-starring 2000 film, The Beach, which either makes it an obligatory photo op amid a beautiful, surrealistic haven, or one of the world’s best examples of Instagram versus reality. We’ll let you decide for yourself.
What Not to Do
Elephants and tigers and lions, oh my. Don’t be those people in Thailand. Any attraction or service offering elephant rides or a similar experience is unfortunately part of a horrific system of lifelong abuse for these intelligent, magnificent animals. And those tigers you can supposedly walk right up next to? They have been drugged out of their senses. While the tiger photo op has no recommended alternative, if you’re genuinely seeking to commune with the elephants, there are ethical preserves (like the Phuket Elephant Sanctuary) that give them care and ample space to roam, and where you can conduct a responsible and meaningful visit—and yes, get your photos too.
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