The simple hair accessories that every woman over 40 must have – and the one to avoid
Bows, clips, cuffs, bands (I could go on): hair accessories are having a moment. A resurgence of interest in tortoiseshell headbands by Charles J Wahba – a favourite of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy – has even seen New York customers making pilgrimages to the Upper East Side pharmacy she purchased shampoo and scrunchies from.
The Zitomer pharmacy has reportedly had to triple its stock of Wahba accessories to keep up with demand, with Gen Z shoppers snapping up the same $35 (about £28) French-made tortoiseshell headband once worn by the late fashion icon and wife of John F Kennedy Jr. Meanwhile, sales of 1980s-style scrunchies and butterfly clips have also skyrocketed in the UK, with silk or velvet versions from luxury brands Alo and Lululemon flying off the shelves.
Zoe Irwin, John Frieda Salons’ creative director, has always been a fan of hair accessories, but uses them in a more chic, grown-up way than the scrunchie. I remember going to one of her masterclasses in dressing hair a few years ago: she tore frayed denim into ribbons and styled one on me in a high Nicole Kidman-style ponytail – the bow looked like something I’d bought in Chanel.
“The right type of hair accessory can look effortlessly chic and grown-up on women over 40,” says Irwin. “The best part about it is that you don’t need freshly washed hair to pull it off. In fact, using a hair accessory can be a real saviour on day two or three, when you need to look presentable but don’t have time to wash your hair.”
Bows and bands are a favourite of Irwin’s, but she’s also a fan of the U-shaped chignon pin – or the French hairpin, as it’s also known. “It’s the unsung hero of the hair-accessory world and it’s having a big resurgence,” she says.
She’s preaching to the converted. Since seeing make-up artist Gucci Westman and jeweller Deborah Pagani’s limited-edition, 14-carat-gold version (a collaboration they did after lockdown that incorporated Westman Atelier’s open-heart logo into the pin design), I’ve hunted down basic tortoiseshell versions in French and Italian pharmacies, using them as a chic alternative to the butterfly clip. My current favourite is the cherry-red acetate version from La Bonne Brosse, which really doesn’t budge all day.
As Westman told US Vogue: “They are just as easy to use as an elastic, but they transform a quick bun or up-do into an effortlessly polished look.”
Do the twist
I love how you can quickly twist up less-than-perfect-looking long hair, prong in the pin and, voila, it resembles something a little more chic than a ponytail in a scrunchie. It’s also healthier for the hair than using a band or butterfly clip. Of course, you can be more adventurous by making a low bun or chignon and fixing it with the pin, too, but my skills are limited to the 10-second twist, which works well for me – be it at my desk, on a dog walk or during a meeting. I love how it stays put and looks effortless, especially if teamed with earrings and a cashmere cardigan.
Gucci Westman also showcased another pretty hair accessory on her Instagram recently: a crystal-encrusted bobby pin she wore while applying Nicole Kidman’s make-up for the Golden Globes. The piece instantly elevated her classic, navy cashmere pullover into something a little bit extra. Hailey Bieber, Gigi Hadid and Taylor Swift are also fans of jewel-encrusted pins for an evening look, with Swift wearing Jennifer Behr’s crystal-star bobby pins on New Year’s Eve. Indeed, Behr delivers super-pretty pin designs set with pearls and crystals from £200, but magpies can easily hunt out bargain alternatives on Amazon.
Think big
When it comes to bows and bands, Irwin insists that big is best. “Last year we saw so many small, neat Parisian bows from the likes of Prada, Miu Miu and Chanel, but the story this year is all about the oversized bow, which is more flattering if you’re over 40,” she says. “Think Catherine Deneuve and the larger bows that Brigitte Bardot wore.”
When I think of large hair bows, my mind immediately jumps to the oversized version Sarah Jessica Parker wore to the New York City Ballet a couple of years ago, which she teamed with a sleek, high ponytail. “When wearing a bow in a ponytail, the rest of the hair should look glossy to make the whole thing look groomed and elevated,” says Irwin, who advises using tongs to create the look, then finishing with Hair by Sam McKnight’s Modern Hairspray Styling Mist, £24.
Band width
“Wide headbands can add height and volume to thinning midlife hair,” adds Irwin. “Just don’t wear them too far back on the crown as it can look a bit old fashioned. Try to place them a bit more towards the front.”
Born In The Sun and V V Rouleaux offer a variety of hairbands to indulge in – from velvet designs to jewel-encrusted tweeds. A plain black band has often saved the day for me when there’s no time to blow-dry, and I love the retro feel of Bessett-Kennedy with a whiff of 1970s Barbara Streisand.
What to avoid
Plain, bog-standard bobby pins without jewels are best left to Gen Z. Elle Fanning pulled off wearing a single bobby pin beautifully at the A Complete Unknown film premiere recently, but it can look just a bit too dishevelled after a certain age. Oversized scrunchies are also to be avoided if you don’t want to look like you’re wearing a shower cap. The goal here is chic-looking chemist buys only.
