Simone Rocha: ‘Fashion Is A Reflection Of The Times And We Are In Challenging Times’
How to make a grey, dreary London Sunday brighter? A 4pm Simone Rocha show. The designer presented her AW25 show in an ornate reception room at Goldsmith’s Hall that lifted spirits as the designer is often wont to do.
‘I've always wanted to make clothes that make people feel something,’ Rocha told me ahead of her show, which is always a highlight of the London Fashion Week schedule. The designer, who is known for her subversive take on femininity, has rewritten the rule book on what girlish dressing can look like, finding a devoted following for her sensitive creations that thrive on romance and yet come laced (often quite literally) with a subversiveness that speaks to the multifaceted nature of the modern woman. Among her fans: Chloe Sevigny, Griff and Rihanna.
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Despite being known for such an aesthetic, she never set out to be a ‘female designer,’ she tells me, sitting in front of a library’s worth of books, her hair decorated with ribbons and crystal hair pieces. Rocha instead designs for ‘people’ , refusing the idea that her gender needs to preface her job role.
‘But I will say this,’ she continues. ‘When you are designing clothing for women, as a woman you do feel a sensitivity to the garments themselves. There's a deeper understanding of what those clothing could make you feel or help you portray, whether it's security in it being like a uniform, or maybe it's provocative and flirtatious.’
‘I love that all different types of women wear the collections, and they wear it in such different ways,’ she adds. ‘I love that even though it's very identifiable it gives license to your own identity as well.
For AW25, Rocha decided to step back in time, drawing on highlights from collections over the years and reimagining them for today’s landscape. Fabrics that Rocha has worked with often - tweeds, tulles, even neoprenes from the earliest collections - were here woven with a darker spin. The overarching feel of the collection presented these familiar traits with an edgier appeal compared to the first time round with the arrival of chains and padlocks and hardier fabrics like leather and denim.
‘I was reflecting on this idea of distilling the past, and then I came to these four words: past, present, presence and pretend. I wanted to see how previous collections might feel today and how those emotions and characters felt in today's landscape,’ she says.
‘There will be nods to the past, but I also wanted it to feel a little bit displaced, so it feels new today. While I was looking at the past, I didn't want the collection to feel nostalgic.’
Rocha points out a series of dresses laced up with ribbons as key pieces: ‘They are the thread that runs through the whole collection. I think they feel very strong.’
Characters, Rocha says, are also key to the show and this was reflected in the casting, which played into individualism with Alexa Chung, Bel Powley, Fiona Shaw and Andrea Riseborough appearing. It’s something she’s been thinking about since collaborating with Jean Paul Gaultier on her debut couture collection for SS24.
‘Since [then] I've gotten a little more focused on individualism in a collection and this idea of characters and different people within the show,’ she says.
It’s no wonder Rocha’s looking back: 2025 marks 15 years since she launched the brand. Milestones like this are a funny thing for a designer, she muses; they’re often flagged first by those around the brand, rather than the team itself. Rocha didn’t realise until another journalist raised it. ‘I don’t look at time like that,’ she says. ‘The 15 years didn't really register, maybe because I always look forward to the show that's coming next.’
Rocha has now had some time to reflect. ‘To be honest, I do feel incredibly proud,’ she admits. ‘Hitting a milestone like that, doing what I do, which is something that feels very authentic to me, makes me feel incredibly proud.’
You have to wonder if it's that laser-focused, future-facing view of hers that has helped steer the brand’s stellar success. Rocha has a global presence with stockists including Dover Street Market and Selfridges and three stores of her own in London, New York and Taipei. She has been able to thrive in a climate that has seen many of her peers shut up shop.
‘It’s an interesting contradiction because I like to reflect on memories of the past and use historical influences, but in stark contrast, I always like to be thinking ahead. You have to look forward, it's what excites and stimulates me.’
Rocha has long history of collaborating with other brands. In addition to her Jean Paul Gaultier guest spot, she’s made denim with J Brand, a viral H&M collection and an on-going tie-up with Crocs. She hints there’s more to come but NDAs keep her from spilling.
‘My motivation comes from wanting to put out work I genuinely love and feel proud of and that often comes from taking on projects where I learn,’ she says. ‘I love collaborating and working with people with different skills and working in different areas. That element of collaboration makes me very excited.’
Rocha finds inspiration everywhere, even in the mundane goings-on of everyday life: ‘I've always thought of clothing and the collections as an extension of myself. That's just something that comes naturally. I love seeing new things and I love reflecting on old things. I would like more time for more opportunities.’
The dominant topic of conversation at London Fashion Week is the economic climate, a challenged retail landscape and its impact on British based brands. A lot of the discourse has focused on how hard it is for younger names, but as Rocha points out, established brands like hers also feel the impact.
Rocha says: ‘The challenges are big and small, and they affect all people. It's universal.’
‘What I've been thinking a lot about is being very fortunate to create your own path and work in a way that suits you, to navigate the challenging times.’
Her outlook is optimistic. ‘Even though London is a smaller season, it doesn't mean that it can't be as strong. Nor does it mean that you can't put your best foot forward. Fashion is a reflection of the times, and we are in challenging times. I think what's necessary is figuring out how you navigate it and being willing to take risks, interpret things in different ways and take your time and do things that are right for yourself.’
It’s how Rocha plans on running the label for at least the next 15 years. ‘What I really see is it growing and standing on its own two feet. I love that Simone Rocha has and can have its own voice in this vast landscape of fashion. That’s what I want to retain most.’
Layered Ruffled Cotton-Jersey And Tulle T-shirt
Carnation Drip Earrings
Ruffled Tulle Midi Skirt
Beaded Classic Bow Crossbody Bag
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