Shopping Time: 5 Gem-Set Rolexes You Can Buy Before the Holidays
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
A few weeks ago we were in Dubai for the launch of the most lavish Rolex Certified Pre-Owned boutique in the world. After that, we were bopping around the city and spotted no fewer than 55 amazing Rolex watches, many of the gem-set. Most of that Rollie action in the UAE was down to the Seddiqi family, and it is interesting to note how breezily this family wears the most amazing Rolexes you’ve ever seen. Call it conditioning, a change of taste, or the eventual landing place for many watch enthusiasts, but gem-set Rolex watches are not only some of the brands most rare watches featuring high craft that transcends the industrial approach to watchmaking, but gem-set Rollies are also coming into fashion here in the U.S.
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In Miami a couple weeks back we had a chance to hang with Eric Wind of Wind Vintage at our own House of Robb event. Well, Mr. Wind was quick to throw a 36 mm Rolex Day-Date in yellow gold with a bark bezel and president bracelet on our wrists, and this watch was set with sapphires and diamonds. Darn you, Wind, you’ve done it again: channeling our emerging tastes before our own eyes. That watch is for sale and linked below.
Unlike the standard-model Submariner, Daytona, GMT Master, and other watches that Rolex calls “professional models” and the rest of the world calls “tool watches,” gem-set Rollies are kind of in their own world. Yes, there are gem-set Daytonas and Subs and GMT Masters, but they’re truly nothing like the standard models. They’re not just elevated; they’re transformed.
Below are five incredible models for sale now, and if you move quickly you can probably secure one in time for the holidays—be that as a gift for a loved one or, perhaps, a little self-love this season.
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Rolex Daytona ref. 16528 | $98,550
The reference 16528 Daytona represents a classic yellow-gold configuration within the last of the five-digit era. This watch was built in the final year of the generation, which uses a highly modified Zenith-built El Primero chronograph caliber, dubbed the 4030 in Rolex parlance. This particular reference also welcomed a wide range of special-configuration dials, such as this example which features a stunning ruby pave landscape between the sub-dials. For about as classic a sport chronograph as you’re likely to come across, it takes remarkably well to some Rolex’s most original gem set designs, as well come to see in the remainder of this curation.
This 16528 comes to use from Tropical Watch, and remains in remarkable condition. This is a full kit with the original box, pamphlets, and service cards. The case and bracelet show light signs of wear, but crisp lines remain through the lugs and links. This watch, like each of the watches below, is exceptionally rare, as they were never officially listed in the brand’s catalog. Few come to market, and this one represents a unique opportunity, especially under the $100,000 price point.
Rolex Day-Date ref. 18078 | $29,000
The Day-Date reference 18078 is an icon that bridged the famous Rolex collection from its past to its future. Like the Daytona above, this reference was offered in a diverse range of dial configurations, including some rather unusual gem set designs. While some take a maximalist approach, others exercise some restraint, defining shapes like hour markers and index rings with complimentary tones. Some even carry this through into interesting textures on the bracelet, which is the case here. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the Day-Date as a platform has proven quite adept at working well in a wide range of materials, textures, and finishes.
This particular reference 18078 is on offer by Wind Vintage, and brings us a unique design that boasts a bark bezel texture that’s mirrored in the center link of the bracelet. It’s unexpected, but it works. The yellow dial matches the yellow gold case and bracelet, and the dial also gets an arrangement of diamonds set around the chapter ring, with longer baguette cut diamonds in dark blue at each hour. This example dates to 1983, which is early into the five-digit reference cycle. The case appears to be unpolished, but does show signs of age around the crown. Overall this is a beautiful example of one of the more interesting takes on the Day-Date to be produced by Rolex.
Rolex Day-Date ref. 18039 | Price on Request
This watch is a perfect contrast to the Day-Date above. The reference 18039 is rendered in white gold, paired with a white-gold President bracelet. It’s as classic as it is understated. This reference also welcomed plenty of off-catalog configurations, and this is a peculiar example of just that. Rather than embracing big colors, this watch almost flies under the radar with a full white gem set dial, matching the tones of the case and bracelet perfectly. Dark blue gems mark each hour, and bring the only moments of contrast to the situation as a whole.
This example comes to us from the newly announced Rolex CPO program from Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons based in Dubai. The retailer has brought a truly exceptional collection of rare and unique Rolex references right out of the gates, with seemingly much more to come. This watch is a stunning example of what you can expect for the most lavish CPO program on the planet, with a crisp case and bracelet and a well preserved, rare dial.
Rolex Daytona ref. 116595RBOW | $767,612
We can’t have a list of gem-set Rolex references without a Rainbow Daytona making an appearance. This is an idea that’s seen in a variety of configurations within the Daytona collection, but the most recent example came in 2018 with the 116595RBOW. What I love about this take on the concept is the move away from square set hour markers, into baguette cut diamonds that more closely align the intended dial design. The colors match with the transitioning bezel colors, representing the full spectrum of the rainbow, naturally. It’s over the top in every conceivable way, and it’s totally amazing.
This example, from Chrono24, was produced this year, and is presented in like new condition. This is another rare one, and due to its more public than usual launch in 2018, it’s been spotted on all manner of celebrity and public figure—which is reflected in the price seen here. This is about as good as it gets when it comes to the quality of Rolex using gems in an interesting and engaging manner. It’s also about as rare as it gets.
Rolex Daytona ref. 126598TRU | $1,350,000
Finally, we have something from the newest generation of the Daytona, which was released in 2023. A trio of off-catalog references also appeared with the new generation, and the 126598TRU was arguably the most dramatic of the bunch. This yellow gold case and bracelet plays host to 36 rubies set into the bezel, 11 ruby hour markers, and a dial paved with 417 diamonds. Oh, and they’re also set into the lug shoulders and crown guards, because why not…? This is a watch that makes an impact, and every stone at use has been carefully selected.
This is a rare watch to see the light of day, let alone find itself listed on Chrono24, but that’s exactly what we have here. This is a like-new example that comes with a full kit. While this is far from inexpensive, it will put you in rather exclusive company, and hits straight at the end of the stick when it comes to collecting rare Rolex references.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
