Shoes and Bags Look to Inject Excitement Into Fall 2025 at Milan Fashion Week
MILAN — When it comes to luxury shoes and bags from specialty brands, there’s no place like Milan Fashion Week. As many fashion brands look to move away from the “quiet luxury” trend, accessories seen at presentations around town provided a much-needed injection of newness and glamour, with unexpected twists dominating the fall 2025 collections.
Here, a roundup of some of the week’s key accessories’ presentations.
More from WWD
Antonia Celebrates Khaite and Applied Art Forms During Milan Fashion Week
10 Corso Como Unveils Gentle Monster's First Store in Europe
Afro Fashion Association Keeps DEI Conversation in Fashion Rolling
For fall 2025, Aquazzura creative director and founder Edgardo Osorio wanted to play with the notion of day-to-night transition with street-to-slope options. But most of the options seen at the Milan presentation lend themselves more to an opulent night on the town, like the intricate Ce Soir sandal featuring a scalloped upper adorned with hand-applied paillettes, reminiscent of a mermaid’s scales in glazed rose, aqua and gold, and the Sweet Surrender sandal, infused with an Art Deco inspiration. A highlight came via the use of mesh, tulle and netting on the Bisous mule, the Bow Tie Net flats and pumps, the Love Affair pump.
Art Deco inspired golden details were also seen at Gianvito Rossi. Boots took center stage this season — with over-the-knee styles seen in buttery-soft suede infused with golden elements, which soar stylishly to the sky, while there also were chunky platform sandals with a ‘70s edge. Rossi’s presentation doubled down on the importance of the designer’s iconic pump, which was shown in over 30 shades of suede, from a rich purple to several variations of browns.
A garden of roses dominated Rodo’s latest collection. The flower of love adorned accessories this season through the use of precious metal mesh. Ruffles and pleats echoed the shapes of roses in napa leather and velvet on clutches and shoulder bags. For footwear, Rodo presented a complimentary collection that featured bows, big and small, on pumps, sandals, cowboy boots and ankle boots.
A collegiate theme strung together Pollini’s “refined classics” fall collection. This season, the brand’s Archive collection welcomed a new reinterpretation of the classic Cavaliere boot, including a tubular style with a chunky sole and super-lightweight lug bottom, crafted in a soft lacquered leather with a maxi croc-print effect. As for the bags, a new crossbody was seen everything from polished calfskin to grained leather, enriched with a metallic buckle featuring the classic Pollini logo. The brand also introduced a performance-leaning capsule named P-Ride in collaboration with Michelin and its footwear licensing partner, JV International. Inspired by trail running shoes, the collection includes several styles in three different colorways boasting ultralight soles with extra grip.
Dubbed “Back to Myself,” this season’s Giuseppe Zanotti brought opulence and embellishments back in full force. A highlight was the sleek Intriigo shape, with a towering stiletto heel, which was reimagined with a new jewel toe adorned with pavé-set, baguette-cut crystals. A showstopping evening sandal, like the iconic Venere sandal, made a grand comeback in the form of the new GZ Dafne, which features a flexible metal and crystal pavé choker that drapes across the foot like a piece of fine jewelry. Plus, from the ’90s, came a striking over-the-knee boot in suede, enveloping the leg like a second skin.
For fall 2025, Valextra unveiled its new Senso suede alongside the evolution of its slouchy Sublime leather that was first introduced for spring. The Milano handbag is the first of the new-era Valextra icons to be realized in Senso suede, arriving in shades of chocolate brown, black and nude. The brand’s Sublime leather was also seen this season in two new sizes of the MyLogo Bowling Bag in mini and micro dimensions, as well as the Mochi handbag.
According to Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi, this season’s collection is filled with tactile contrasts and warm tones with finishes that “beg you to touch.” New for the season, the Farren round-toe pump offered a sculptural take on a traditionally ladylike silhouette; presented in soft high-shine calf leather and chocolate-hued mock croc. The Tylor was also a new consideration of volume with a chunky, sturdy loafer-inspired silhouette, presented with a belt detail across the vamp and an amped-up heel. This season also introduced the Scarlett pump, its sharply pointed toe in black napa balanced on a lacquered 95mm Drop heel, alongside the new Scarlett ballerina, with rounded toe and corset straps, executed in chocolate-mix zebra patterns.
Borsalino focused on the theme of regeneration this season, taking its collection inside a beautiful home in the center of Milan. Evoking the sense of home, the crowns of the label’s Sophie and Agata hats for her and the Andrea and Heath for him were wrapped in an intricate pattern often seen in home rugs and the velvets of sofas and blankets. Other highlights were the classic Basco, absorbed in the colorful Lynchian texture of a painting, and the Leslie and Brest models that mixed sequins from old evening gowns to create intricate floral patterns.
Santoni marked the start of its 50th anniversary with the presentation of its latest collection. The elevated women’s line this season revolved around the ideas of “everyday glamour” and “refined ease,” seen in pumps that feature elongated vamps and softly rounded toes that rise on sculpted heels. Ankle boots hug the leg made in supple lambskin, while loafers are sculpted with slender lines and delicate piping.
Hogan looked to its urban home of Milan for fall 2025. First up, the brand renewed its Hogan Cool sneakers with a brand-new signature maxi sole in lightweight crepe, which contrasts the upper with the chunky lower construction. Plus, the Olympia is presented in a new, slim-fit and super-feminine design mixed with a football-inspired tread. Both sneaker and ballerina versions were served in deep-tan suede, as well as white or silver leather. As for bags, the Script logo shopper was made in an even lighter, more relaxed shopping bag in an allover calfskin leather, suede or pony skin, while the Flap Bag reinterpreted a classic camera bag in smooth calfskin leather.
Paul Andrew’s debut collection for Sergio Rossi was an exploration of the archives and legacy of the brand. A true standout in the collection was the new Sinuous wedge, which is crafted in carbon fiber and then either galvanized in silver or gold finishes or lacquered for a color surface. The Surge was another new shoe family for Andrew’s Sergio Rossi, which is characterized by a chiseled pyramid toe shape seen across styles including sandals, loafers, slides and mules.
Multiple personalities — six to be exact — were on display at the Fratelli Rossetti presentation. The theme was to highlight the different moods of the collection, which centered around the label’s Brera loafer. One personality dubbed “I Am Wild,” sees the loafer in an animalier version, featuring a giraffe-patterned “printed pony” finish, while the “I Am Cozy” version of the loafer was made entirely of a wool-blend fabric and was adorned with patterns typical of hand-knit sweaters.
Borbonese returned to the 25th floor of the Torre Velasca building to present its new “Skylines” collection for fall. The brand’s iconic silhouettes of the Sexy — which was seen in three sizes — and the Luna were accessorized by a screw motif. Plus, the Rondò evolves this season into a puffy and embroidered version, with mini bags also in a laminated version, while the Nido is reinvented into the Mini Nido bag. Also of interest, the company noted that sustainability continues to be a “fundamental” pillar, with almost 90 percent of the collection made from sustainable materials.
Eye-catching gold embroidery defined Rene Caovilla’s latest collection. It was a golden fantasy that evokes couture ateliers that enriches the Cleo model, along with two new flat models, the mule and the slingback. Full crystal models offered by the historic brand also sparkled, like slingbacks, mary janes with Parisienne côté and boots, as well as flat ballerinas, kitten heels and stilettos. This season also launched the Spark model, a new snake made of luminous stones that wrap around the ankle in a spiral of crystal baguettes. This new accessory was available in purple, orange, and gray metallic fabrics, blue, purple, and raspberry velvet.
Mach & Mach brought the moon to Earth for its new “Cosmos” collection for fall. The star, no pun intended, of the show was the new “floating pearls” concept that was seen on the brand’s most popular models. Silver, moon-textured displays showcased the brand’s new and signature shoe families — Double Bow, Orchid, Galaxy, Le Cadeau, and others —positioned like constellations in orbit. A playful take on polka dots and bows was also seen throughout the collection.
Paris Texas showcased a mix of boots and heels for fall 2025 including the crystal-embedded Lidia, which features crystal stones hand-set in a brass chain against a backdrop of satin and metallic shades. Plus, the El Dorado boots dig into classic Americana roots, showcasing Western-inspired embroidery and the addition of an internal shearling liner, while the Aspen fur-covered boot features a curly, European lamb shearling against natural shades of cognac and black.
Inspired by contemporary architecture, the fall 2025 Alexandre Birman collection featured striking silhouettes, from angular heels to curved lines. The collection’s color palette introduced deep, rich tones like Espresso, Dark Ruby and Brickwood, complemented by neutrals such as Meringue and Eggshell. Velvety suedes, polished leathers, and metallic finishes were also seen throughout the line. Standout styles included the Gia Family, which features a vintage-inspired heel with a contrast of black suede and metallic plaid, and the Thalita Family, which is a series of bold platform heels in 90mm and 125mm heights.
A new chain heel stole the show at the Casadei presentation last week. The Tacco Infinity chain heels is a look to the future of the brand with a metallic, stand-out shape. Other highlights include the iconic Blade heel seen in the Aurora bootie, with its regal cape-like ankle detail, and the Lingerie boot with flocked panels to give the illusion of lace. This season also expanded the recently launched Après Ski collection with the introduction of a new faux fur boot designed to transition from city streets to mountain retreats.
The notion of “Goth couture” took over the fall season for AGL — with inspiration hailing from ‘90s rock bands. The collection saw rock star shapes, like a combat boot covered in floral cutouts and piercings, while mary janes were seen with a removable chain that covers the heel. Other standouts included booties with graphic lacquered heels, made in animal print leather with ribbons and piercing, and ballet shoe styles made in squared or pointy-toe models in soft faux fur or macro flower.
Le Silla took inspiration from Jamiroquai’s hit song “Virtual Insanity” this season to blend nostalgia and innovation into one. This could be seen as fur added a playful twist to the Bella mules with 80mm and 120mm spike heels, the Danielle ballet flats with jeweled buckles, and the Andy cuffed boots. Pony fur in animal prints such as leopard and cowhide took center stage on Bella boots with wide shafts. Plus, Western styles remain important with the Eva boots in soft suede, reinterpreted with cascading fringes and stiletto heels, and the Tess boots in a boho-metropolitan style featuring a Western-inspired heel, with or without a metallic toe cap.
Inspired by the history and architecture of Bologna, the Testoni fall ‘25 collection celebrated the brand’s century-long legacy of Italian craftsmanship. At the core of the collection was the brand’s new Lacquer Spiral, an evolution of the spring ‘25 Gold Spiral, which involves molding, engraving, plating, and lacquering using a custom formula. Plus, the new Enzo Shopper, a unisex tote available in two sizes, boasted clean lines in solid leather and Intreccio versions crafted from smooth French calf leather.
Enterprise Japan’s lates collection centered around a sneaker produced in the heart of the Marche footwear region of Italy. This could be seen in the EJ Egg Rocket, Enterprise Japan’s first style, and the EJ Run Rocket shoes, inspired by the running world that features a lightweight construction and a strong grip sole. The limited edition of the Run was also seen in animalier versions made of calf hair and printed suede.
The range of sneakers grows in the latest Geox collection, which features its “Fast-In System” technology for a slip-on effect. There were new interpretations of Spherica Plus in leather or knit with a Lurex accent, and Nebula Plus, another brand staple that appears in a new version with a technological update. The more formal models focus on styles that tap into seasonal trends and shades: from loafers to boots in a range of heights and materials, from platforms with an urban feel to ballet flats and mary jane court shoes.
Inspired by the creative mood of the “embrace,” Gianni Chiarini looked for warmth this season. Highlights included the Helena Round and Aurora bags made in maxi croco print in textured suede, as well as the Eliana soft leather bucket bag. Plus, the Penelope bag was reinvented in its new petite size in patent leather this season, while the Dua bag captured the vibe of the season with the use of suede and the brand’s unmistakable Bubble Double leather.
At the heart of Premiata’s new collection was the Prima Linea, which debuted a new heel shape this season. Premium materials played a key role in the collection, like pony hair, which was the undisputed star of the season, and blends with a sophisticated color palette ranging from deep black to intense burgundy and forest green. The collection’s standout designs mixed sporty elements with feminine allure. Among them were a pair of bold ankle boots enriched with metallic buckles and contrast stitching, sculptural-heeled booties and ballet-inspired designs.
In its fall 2025 collection dubbed “Pretty Gritty,” Stuart Weitzman explored the duality between feminine styles and rugged designs, showcasing footwear that ran the gamut from the Vinnie pumps and boots with a sculptural pointed toe and angular heels to the lug-soled boat shoes, chukka boots and lace-up booties included in the Hudson line. In between, the brand played with smooth block heels and rounded toes in its reinterpretation of the mary jane style and offered new takes on its 5050 boots with the 5050 Gisele design, defined by a new stretch-infused suede back shaft.
Set against the concept of a black-and-white masked ball, Serapian’s lavish presentation showcased new iterations of the brand’s icons. The Mosaico technique the luxury label is best known for was refreshed with the integration of new materials, adding a 3D effect to its signature woven pattern. Cue micro metal chains and soft mohair woven into the black-and-white leather construction of styles like the Secret bag and clutch, available in different sizes. Bright leather braids, ribbons and decorated stripes were also used in the new iterations of the brand’s hero designs.
Benedetta Bruzziches keeps expanding her assortment way beyond the glitzy clutches her namesake brand built a reputation on. Cue the Mame handbag, that with its maxi shape in shiny or suede calfskin offers an everyday alternative to her sparkly and draped mesh styles, like the Yennefer bag or Venus La Grande clutch. For those still looking for a fancy option, the designer partnered with Italian artisans on the limited-edition Armonia clutch, sculpted by a block of methacrylate, enclosing an organic silk satin pouch and topped by a crystal-encrusted closure.
Themoiré’s fall collection, titled “A responsible legacy,” highlighted the handbag brand’s commitment to the environment. It was inspired by the ‘70, the years in which the EPA was founded and Earth Day was set. All designs were crafted from newly introduced materials such as the processing of the waste of the olive tree, recycled suede, satin and pineapple, from the pineapple leaves with a laminated finish and corn fur, a fabric made from the processing of corn seeds first introduced last season. For the Bios collection, the brand introduced Afrodite, a clutch bag with a chain made from a satin fabric which features a recycled aluminum chain.
The storied leathergoods brand Colombo, known for its exotic skin handbags, channeled a winter resort vibe in its fall collection inspired by autumnal colors in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy, with the introduction of new top-handle styles. The matte alligator Venere bag with a concave top was hand-painted to achieve a shiny, shimmering effect, while the top-handle Perla, a squarish bucket-like bag, came in rich hues, including dark brown and ruby red.
Zanellato, best known for its hit bag Postina, is ready to seize the opportunity of Made in Italy’s appeal and start international expansion, beginning in Europe. Moving from its flagship style, the fall collection expanded the range to new design pillars. These included the grainy leather Dotta, modeled after doctors’ bags with a metallic clasp closure, puffy flap, and flat studs punctuating its frame or the bucket bag Monda, named after rice weeders.
with contributions from Sandra Salibian, Martino Carrera and Andrea Onate.
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
