I Have Sensitive Skin: These Are The Best Retinol Products I've Tried
Chances are, if your skin veers on the sensitive side the mere mention of the word 'retinol' might be enough to turn your complexion into a state of irritation - metaphorically speaking, of course.
The truth is, those of us with sensitive skin have heard the rumours about using harsh skincare acids, or worse, we've experienced first hand how using a multitude of exfoliating ingredients like, say, retinol can spell dermatological disaster for our skin.
But what if you do really want to reap the rewards of this gold standard ingredient? Can you ever use retinol if you do have sensitive skin? The answer, in fact, is yes.
As someone with eternally reactive skin, I've finally mastered the art in using retinol minus any irritation or sensitivity - such a feat requires a careful, considered approach, being armed with the right research and the correct formulations, all of which you can find below...
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Can you use retinol if you have sensitive skin?
Stronger retinols (think anything above 0.5%) and poorly formulated products have given this skincare hero a bad reputation, but it's not off limits for sensitive types altogether. 'You can use retinol even with sensitive skin, but it’s best to start with lower concentrations, using richer formulations that are more hydrating, and build up use gradually over time,' shares CeraVe Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Alexis Granite.
A lower strength retinol would constitute anything around 0.1% as a starting off point, but new retinol legislation passed in the EU is now banning retinol concentrations over 0.3% for the face, with the UK likely to adopt the same laws. As Dr Granite explains, today you can still find much stronger retinols readily available over the counter. 'Retinol percentages right now generally vary between 0.3% and 1% for the face,' she notes.
You also need to think about the ingredients inside the bottle and how much of the product to apply (now is not the time to be playing DIY dermatologist). Some are formulated specifically with a clever cocktail of soothing ingredients to help ward off any irritation, enriched with a powerhouse of ceramides and hyaluronic acid, and the labels will instruct you on exactly how much to apply, at what stage in your routine, and the time of day.
What does retinol do?
A quick recap on the ubiquitous skincare ingredient. 'Retinol is derived from vitamin A and is a derm-favourite ingredient due to its ability to increase skin cell turnover, reduce pigmentation and congestion, and stimulate collagen and elastin production,' says Dr Granite. You can find it in the form of retinol serums and creams, and is usually applied at night.
In terms of its skincare accolades, retinol is touted for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and elasticity, thanks to its ability to stimulate collagen. It doesn't stop there either, as retinol can also refine the look of enlarged pores, exfoliate your skin, improve breakouts and acne, and leave you with clearer, more radiant skin – hence why it's so popular.
How to start using retinol if you have sensitive skin
How to use retinol isn't exactly straightforward to begin with, but when it comes to sensitive skin, an even more considered approach is crucial. Dr Granite recommends using a hydrating cleanser prior to retinol application and following with moisturiser and SPF. 'This can help reduce irritation and dryness from retinol,' she says. 'I also recommend holding off on exfoliation while starting to incorporate retinol into your skincare routine if you have sensitive skin.'
When you're searching for the right retinol for sensitive skin, 'look for products that contain calming ingredients such as niacinamide which can also help reduce retinol irritation,' says Dr Granite. Be mindful of your skincare prep too. 'Make sure your skin is dry prior to application as damp skin absorbs the product more readily and can increase the risk of side effects,' she warns.
Dr Granite also recommends avoiding harsh forms of vitamin A, such as retinaldehyde, which could prove too potent for sensitive skin. 'Retinaldehyde (retinal) is a more potent form of vitamin A which can be more irritating than retinol so those with sensitive skin may want to avoid using this form,' she shares.
There are also a slew of retinol alternatives which are cropping up lately if you're not quite ready to take the retinol plunge. 'Peptides, bakuchiol and azelaic acid are all alternatives to retinol that can be used for those with more sensitive skin as they tend to cause less irritation,' she adds.
The best retinol for sensitive skin
I am sadly one of the many sufferers of sensitive skin. Worse yet, I've used my own highly reactive dermis to guinea pig a number of retinol formulations, resulting in my skin becoming red, inflamed, dry, and with all the tell-tale signs of a damaged skin barrier.
Of course, all complexions are different, and no two dermis are the same, but if you are looking for a retinol formula that's specifically formulated for sensitive skin, these are the six that I'd really recommend. From CeraVe's affordable yet effective Resurfacing Retinol Serum to Medik8's revered retinol, see below the tried-and-true retinols that have worked for my sensitive skin:
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