Schiaparelli Fall 2025: Where the Wild Things Are

Joelle Diderich

7 March 2025 at 1:03 pm·3-min read

Cowboy core is still riding high. Having plied Western chic this time last year, Schiaparelli creative director Daniel Roseberry put a raw spin on the trend this season with hand-tooled leather handbags, chunky shearling jackets and big buckle belts worn three at a time.

Even Delphine Bellini, the house’s stylish chief executive officer, was decked out in head-to-toe acid-washed denim to greet guests gathered at the French capital’s Museum of Modern Art.

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Roseberry has made gold hardware a signature of his tenure at the house, but this time the star was copper, from the burnished shade of a satin ribbon dress to the matte luster of a bugle-beaded pajama suit.

The poster girl for the look is arguably Bella Hadid, who’s been showing off her horsemanship since she started dating cowboy Adan Banuelos. Instead, it was her sister Gigi — who also knows her way around a saddle — who opened the show in a chic black bow-legged pantsuit worn with Western-style stiletto ankle boots.

“This was about how, if I imagine a world in which there was no male gaze, would women choose to embrace traditionally male archetypes?” Roseberry said during a preview. “I’m doing a lot less talking and a lot more listening with the women in my life.”

The lineup was an about-turn from his heavily corseted haute couture show in January, though the Texan designer bristled at the suggestion that cinching the waist was a gesture historically aimed at making women’s bodies more pleasing to men.

“I actually was so dumbfounded that we’re still having a conversation about corsetry and agency and choice, because women are coming to us wanting to be snatched, wanting to be transformed,” he said.

Here, the hourglass silhouettes took the form of oversize suit jackets with maxi shoulders, while corset lacing was used as a decorative accent on items like a white tank top and scrunched leather pants with a trompe-l’oeil double waist.

Other Surrealist details included a large belt buckle on the neck of a black vest top, and a knuckleduster ring shaped like gold fingers. But the stars of the show were those wildebeest furs, like the cropped shearling jackets with sleeves the size of a side of beef.

Roseberry feels his track record of delivering red carpet stunners, such as Ariana Grande’s nude satin gown at the Oscars, has eclipsed his ready-to-wear efforts so far. He hopes this show will help to redress the imbalance.

“This one is meant to be walking that tightrope between something that feels really pushed and really real at the same time,” he said. That tension was palpable in the lineup, which ran the gamut from commercial knitwear pieces to runway showstoppers.

If in the end his designs remained deeply personal, that was a good thing. With its soundtrack of country tunes, the show conjured a way of life, something that will remain long after the fad for cowboy hats and Stetson boots has been and gone.

Launch Gallery: Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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