Rio de Janeiro, Brazil guide: where to stay, what to do and when to go
Looking for some winter sun? A destination that'll provide ultimate Instagram goals, incite major travel envy and all without breaking the bank? Brazil, or more specifically Rio de Janeiro, could be your answer. Yep, we're talking Copacabana Beach, caipirinhas and carnival vibes on a budget.
December to March is peak season in Rio, with the very best weather and, of course, February's Rio Carnival. But Spring (October and November) and Autumn (April and May), still see temperatures averaging 22-28°C, crowds are smaller and prices are cheaper. November is probably the best month weather-wise outside of peak season and, if you go early in the month, you might just catch the Day of the Dead. (We went in November, saw zero rain and temperatures in the high 20°Cs most days.) Flights can drop as low as £300, but on average you'll be looking at around £450-500 for direct flights.
Where we stayed
If it's amazing views and a buzzy Rio vibe you're after, you need to head to Yoo2 in the Guanabara Bay and Botafogo Beach area. It truly is an Instagram dream and has some of the most stunning vistas you can imagine, overlooking both Sugar Loaf Mountain (with nothing but a beautiful sailboat-strewn stretch of sea between you) and Christ the Redeemer.
The modern interiors comes from renowned designer Philippe Starck and the luxury-meets-industrial decor is cool AF. But the hotel's real masterpiece is the rooftop pool and bar, serving cocktails and food overlooking those breathtaking views, often soundtracked by DJs. Nothing quite beats watching the sunset turn the sky a dusky pink over Sugar Loaf Mountain while you sip on a caipirinha.
You'd expect to pay big time for a stay here, but prices start at around £80 per room per night. Plus, you get all that without the noise and crowds of the bigger beaches, which are just a short Uber ride away.
What we did
Sugar Loaf Mountain is a MUST. It was probably lower down my list compared to some of the other sites, especially when you can already see it from the Yoo2 rooftop, but by the end of our stay it was my favourite tourist attraction in Rio. The cable car entrance is just a quick 10-15 taxi ride round Botafogo Beach and you can buy your tickets from the kiosks there and then on the day.
There are two stops on the cable car, Morro da Urca and Pão de Açucar - both have spectacular views of the whole of Rio, short hiking routes and some lovely cafes and bars where you can sit and soak up the sight of Copacabana Beach stretching out below you. You can probably do the round trip in an hour at a push, but if you want a leisurely experience and to stop for a drink, a couple of hours is ideal.
Next up, we got a taxi round to Copacabana Beach itself, for Sunday brunch at the legendary Copacabana Palace Hotel. The hotel's Pérgula restaurant offers an all-you-can-eat (and drink) bottomless brunch on Sundays 1-4pm and honestly, make sure you starve yourself beforehand. Drinks include champagne cocktails, Aperol and more, while the word 'buffet' doesn't do justice to the array of perfectly cooked food ranging from steak and lobster to freshly-served ceviche and a dessert selection beyond your wildest dreams.
At around £60 per person it'll be the most expensive meal you'll have in Brazil, but also probably the best and you wont need to eat for the rest of the day. It's essentially all-you-can-eat five-star fine dining in one of Brail's most iconic locations.
A post shared by Belmond Copacabana Palace (@belmondcopacabanapalace) on Oct 26, 2019 at 10:39am PDT
Have a stroll along Copacabana Beach to say you've done it, but in my opinion there are far nicer and quieter beaches in Rio and beyond for sunbathing, swimming and selfie-taking.
The following morning, we were up bright and early to tick off Christ the Redeemer, perched on Corcovado mountain. We took a quick ten minute Uber to the Corcovado Train Station and while you can buy your tickets ahead of time, it's fine to turn up and buy on the day, provided you are happy to wait half an hour or so and don't head there at peak times.
The little tram-like train takes around half an hour to climb the mountain and then you can opt for stairs, or escalators and lifts, for the final five minutes to the peak. It's a must-see but, to be honest, once you've taken your selfie and soaked up the view amidst the hundred or so other people doing exactly the same, you're done. There's not much room and only a small cafe at the top, so the crowds drove us away after about ten minutes, even at 10am on a Monday morning.
We decided to make the most of being there in spring that afternoon and went for a wander around the Botanical Gardens (Jardim Botânico). I wouldn't bother. It was enjoyable - but after an hour's stroll we saw nothing in the way of wildlife and I wouldn't say the greenery was particularly incredible. If I had my 48 hours again, I'd ditch this in favour of The Royal Portuguese Reading Room (a Beauty and The Beast-level epic library), a football match or a boat trip.
Where we ate
Okay, so I've already dedicated over 100 words to the glorious Copacabana Palace Sunday brunch, but Rio really was a case of too much food, not enough time. In fact, if I had my 48 hours again, I might ditch the Botanical Gardens in favour of just eating continuously for the whole afternoon.
A post shared by TERRITÓRIO APRAZÍVEL (@aprazivel) on Nov 12, 2019 at 2:35pm PST
Aprazível, set in the hillside of the Santa Teresa neighbourhood, is a must. Book and request a table in the treehouse for sunset and enjoy the most incredible dinner views. Don't make the mistake I did and book a table here after Sunday brunch. I literally wanted to cry at being so full I couldn't make the most of the truly mouthwatering food.
It's also worth checking out Explorer Bar, a cute fairy-light covered outdoor cocktail bar a ten-minute walk down the hill from Aprazivel.
Botanical Gardens visit or not, we highly recommend Casa Camolese across the road, with gorgeous views overlooking the Jockey Club racecourse. I'm talking beer from their in-house brewery, arancini with brie, duck croquettes with orange mayo, steak with gnocchi and parmesan cream, with oven baked Cocada (coconut cake) to finish. Drool. £25 per person (plus drinks) for one of my favourite meals in Brazil.
A post shared by Casa Camolese (@casacamolese) on Jul 27, 2019 at 7:57am PDT
The Ipanema area is also great for restaurants and most don't need bookings. We tried Bazaar, dining on scallops, catch of the day with cauliflower three ways, and chocolate mousse. All for less than £30 per person (plus drinks).
FYI
A LOT of places are closed on Sundays and Mondays, so make sure you check ahead.
Uber is the easiest way to get around and at an average of 50p to £3 for any trip around Rio, it's a convenient and cheap option. Do not use airport taxis, they will rip you off.
Don't listen to banks that tell you the currency is US Dollars. It's not. It's the Brazilian real (R$ or BRL). It's super hard to get hold of in the UK so you'll have to order a couple of weeks in advance. Otherwise, change a bit up at the airport and then use local cash points when you get there. We put most things on card, though.
You can live like royalty for next-to-nothing. We didn't spend more than £40-50 per person for even our very poshest meals, which included three courses of truly fantastic top-quality food and wine, and the tip. You can easily eat meals that would cost well over £100 in the UK for £20-30 in Rio.
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