Review: Down Hall Hotel & Spa in Essex
Far-flung retreats and tropical spa holidays are all well and good, but what if you don’t have the time, money or inclination (or all three)? Sometimes closer to home is better, which is what went through my mind when I turned up at four-star Down Hall on the Essex / Hertfordshire border one wet, wintry day in Jan.
I'd forgotten how extremely satisfying it is to go on a weekend break within a few hours of your house - you can arrive, unpack and hit the spa in less time than it takes to get through airport security at Gatwick. Result. And when the place in question is a really quite stunning honey-hued manor that recently won AA Hotel of the Year England 2024 and can be traced back to the 10th Century, it's doubly satisfying.
Sounds great, tell me more about that spa...
The hotel’s Eden Spa lies in the East Wing and has a very different vibe to the main house. Here it’s all sleek, modern decor, white fluffy robes and a futuristic looking wet spa area. I booked an ESPA Facial to coincide with my arrival, and it was a great way to kick-start my 24-hour break - within minutes the friendly reception staff had whisked away my coat and bag, handed me a robe and slippers, handed me a questionnaire to fill out and ushered me into a modern treatment room to lie down and relax.
I was stressed when I arrived as my car had broken down on the way there (the irony of being rescued by the AA to reach an AA-approved hotel was not lost on me), but as soon as I closed my eyes and the fragrant oils from ESPA products wafted through the air, I instantly felt calmer.
First a cleanser was applied which also gently exfoliated, leaving my skin feeling super soft. Next a balm-like mask was left on while my excellent therapist carried out a head massage, including cupping her hands gently over my ears - a technique I hadn't come across before but that was strangely comforting. She also tapped her fingers lightly all over my face to help reduce stress and tighten skin, before finishing with soothing serum, eye cream and moisturiser. In my initial questionnaire I’d said my main area of skin concern was lack of hydration and my skin was visibly plumper and smoother by the end of this treatment. 10/10.
I also enjoyed a session in the compact, futuristic-looking circular Wet Spa - think bubbling, neon-lit hydrotherapy pool, huge rain showers with changing colours that look like they’re going to beam you up, a sauna and a beautifully tiled steam room, which was a heavenly space to sit back, wallow in the heat and detoxify.
Down Hall's spa’s definitely not an after thought, it’s a destination in its own right and you could easily lose a day floating around between lava shell massages, Jessica Nails manis and the sauna. There are also retreats, such as the Positivity Retreat (from £160), including two hours in the Wet Spa, 65-minute positivity massage, Rose Quartz facial cleanse and glass of fizz.
What about the rest of the hotel?
The appeal of Italianate Down Hall is that, despite being so close to the capital, Stansted Airport (15 minutes away) and Bishop’s Stortford (20 minutes by taxi), it still feels really remote and rural. Ringed by 110 acres of park and woodland, you can pull on some of the complimentary green wellies by the door and play at being country landowner for the weekend, which is a lot of fun if your usual stomping ground is a concentre pavement.
Its recent £1.5 million cash injection was spent on refurbing the Estate Patio Bedrooms and suites, Grand Hall, Potting Shed restaurant and Fox Bar with a quirky blend of contemporary and traditional decor, and it was money well spent because the results are elegant.
The Grand Hall is the heart of the hotel and, as the name suggests, it’s a showstopper. You feel like you’re channeling a character from a Jane Austin novel when you step through the impressive wooden doors and are suddenly surrounded by crackling fireplaces, frescos, soaring columns and plush sofas. If Jane had been around today, she would no doubt have joined exhausted Londoners ordering afternoon tea and raved about the Grand Hall's super fast WiFi while typing a novel on her MacBook Air.
What are the rooms like?
I stayed in room 305, one of the recently renovated bedrooms situated on the ground floor. My favourite feature were the patio doors opening onto a long columned terrace with a couple of chairs and table outside - an idyllic spot for a morning tea while gazing at the main house and gardens.
Despite the spaciousness and high ceiling, the forget-me-not blue (Farrow and Ball, surely?) walls, sumptuous bed with patterned headboard, luxurious linen, soft tartan blanket, art work, trinkets and tray to make a cuppa, all made it feel very cosy.
And the food?
Dining in The Garden Room isn’t the highlight of the hotel (that accolade goes to the spa, grounds and Grand Hall Imo), but neither is it a let down, this is a two AA Rosettes establishment after all.
I was sold the moment I looked at the menu and saw the multiple plant-based choices, think delicious beetroot carpaccio and mouth-watering mushroom wellington. Other delights we tried included fluffy chunks of handmade focaccia bread, perfectly cooked scallops with samphire and catch of the day - sea bream in a rich seafood broth with a side of chunky chips. Hands down the best dish, however, was a pineapple and frangipani dessert with edible flowers.
The wine list had some decent wines by the glass, including a silky Saint-Emilion Bordeaux - warning, a large glass (£16) looked like the equivalent of half a bottle of wine, so order the small if you don’t want to be wobbling down the corridor back to that comfy bed.
Anything else?
Lots, actually. A quick scan of the 'what’s on' section on the hall’s website reveals a Princess Afternoon Tea, Valentine’s Day package including a rose petal-strewn bed, chocolate dipped strawberries and supper accompanied by a live pianist, kids’ stay free and activity-filled half-term offer and a breathwork retreat. And that’s just February.
It’s also big on sustainability and green enterprise, including a two-acre kitchen garden which provides veg and salad for the hotel’s kitchens, beehives, EV chargers and (love this) Down Hall Garden Gin and Vodka made with its own blend of botanicals. Cheers to that.
Go there!
Rooms at Down Hall start from £170pn BOOK NOW. ESPA personalised express facial, £57 for 35 minutes.
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