Retro bobs ruled at the Grammys – here's how to get the look and style it yourself
First, we looked to Zendaya and Selena Gomez at this year’s Golden Globes for impeccable examples of a vintage bob; think bounce, gloss and opulent fullness. At last night’s Grammy Awards, a fresh wave of Old Hollywood bob inspiration came courtesy of Cardi B, Raye (who has cemented the style as her signature) and Sabrina Carpenter in the form of a romantic faux bob. Is the future retro?
The hairstylist and trend forecaster Tom Smith certainly thinks so, but he’s noticed a slow build of “glamorous and voluminous bobs becoming steadily more popular over the past 18 months”.
The ‘set bob’ revival
Old styling techniques are meeting new ones, and the result is both refined and dramatic. “We’ve got Raye and Sabrina Carpenter to thank for the revival of ‘the set’,” says Smith, of the vintage-inspired silhouette (that is slightly more structured and polished than its sister style, the nonchalant 'Old Money bob').
“A set bob is blow dried using a round brush, then ‘set’ in heated or Velcro rollers before being misted with hairspray to achieve an almost anti-gravity effect that makes roots look cushioned. The finish is ultra-luxurious." There’s even a retro way to give a perfectly coiffed bob extra longevity, should you wish. “When this style was popular in the 1950s, wearers would very often re-wrap hair and sleep in a bonnet or hairnet to preserve the style for days,” Tom adds.
Retro bob cut: what to ask for
The power and hold of modern styling tools and products make sleeping on your style less necessary, but starting with the right cut is key to achieving both lift and movement that exudes glamour without looking helmet-like. “Long, one-length cuts don’t work here” states legendary stylist Sam McKnight. “Layers and cheekbone-skimming fringes make these styles much easier to achieve and vitally keep the volume”.
The hairstylist Danielle Garner highlights that layered cuts are also key to creating a bob that’s highly personalised: “There’s been a resurgence in popularity of long layers, and it’s evolved to shorter cuts too. It’s a trend I love, as layering is the technique that will make your bob really stand out, whether it’s by adding extra texture to curls or creating a bevelled effect [with longer layers at the front for face-framing finish].”
How to style a retro bob
Shape aside, unique takes on a retro bob are all in the styling. The stylist and salon founder Samantha Cusick cites sculpted, glossy layers as essential to both Raye and Cardi B’s screen-siren looks. “Deep and sultry side partings and cascading polished waves create instant volume and a vision of pure Hollywood regency,” she explains.
Nothing is accidental here according to Cusick, especially in the case of Raye’s finger waves. “It’s an exercise in precision styling," she says. A classic curling tong will create long-lasting waves, then mist hair with a shine-spray for mirror-like shine.
As for Cardi B’s tucked-under curls, brushing hair out with a high-quality hairbrush like the Kent Brushes PF01 Dressing Brush ensures that waves look bouncy and perfectly formed according to the stylist Chlöe Swift.
Ultra-fine layers of hairspray are a must to set both looks; Swift’s choice is Kérastase Laque Noir Hairspray. Smith also notes that supporting your style at the roots with a volumising spray or styling powder gives hair invisible hold from the get-go without sacrificing movement.
Laque Noire Hairspray
Also on the retro bob train but channelling '70s energy was Willow Smith, whose style Cusick describes as “timelessly cool”. “Her hair has a beautifully rounded shape that recalls a classic '70s afro, but the centre parting keeps it sleek and modern.”
The rise of the faux bob
Finally, if you’re still on the fence as to whether to commit to a bob haircut, Sabrina Carpenter’s playful faux version is the perfect way to try the style on for size. She swapped tumbling lengths for a pinned-up short style, with the end-result being “a masterclass in the art of illusion,” according to Cusick.
To recreate it, “curl the hair, then section out layers around the face to create a bob-like effect before twisting the rest of the hair into a French plait,” says Swift. A chignon works too. “This creates a really convincing impression of a graduated bob when seen from the side,” Swift continues. “Give the look grip, hold and fullness with a spritz of Living Proof Full Dry Volume & Texture Spray.”
Full Dry Volume & Texture Spray
As for why the voluminous silhouette is seeing so many red-carpet outings, McKnight thinks it has something to do with the fact that many of us could do with a mood lift at the current time. “There’s nothing more confidence-boosting than a style like this,” he says. “It exudes hair health, it feels good, and it can make us feel powerful.”
Styling a bob: the products the experts swear by
Root Canal Volumising Spray
Clever name, clever results. This ultrafine mist is always on call in Smith’s kit to create soft lift that’s never starchy.
Volumizing Blow Dry Mist
Celebrity stylist Vernon François used Olaplex to style Willow Smith’s hair at the Grammy’s and Tom Smith speaks of this heat protector’s brilliance in particular for smooth, glossy blow-dries in less time.
Mist-ical Shine Spray
Swift loves this lightweight shine spray for a reflective finish like Raye’s.
Curve Classic Curl Tong
Both Smith and Swift swear by this curling tong for creating elegant waves that last.
New Dyson Airwrap i.d.™ multi-styler and dryer - Straight+Wavy (Ceramic Patina/Topaz)
No time for a professional blow dry? Smith recommends using the curling barrel attachment for speedy bounce.
Modern Hairspray
Smith’s go-to for swishy bobs that stay the distance. Seeking a styling shortcut? McKnight’s The Big Set includes the hairspray alongside a drying hood and rollers for retro waves without the wait.
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