Retinol or retinal? Experts share everything you need to know
Welcome to Skin Solutions: an expert-led guide to understanding your skin.
Knowing that skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all, we’ve spoken to the industry’s top dermatologists and aestheticians to answer all your questions about your skin type or concern.
Whether dealing with a bout of acne, a rosacea flare-up or eternally dehydrated skin, our Skin Solutions series shares science-backed advice and product recommendations from the pros.
Both skincare savants and complete newbies have likely heard of the term retinol. Considered the gold standard ingredient by dermatologists for fading pigmentation, smoothing texture and minimising fine lines, the vitamin A derivative features in many skincare routines because it genuinely delivers results.
As skincare’s buzziest ingredient, it seems there’s nothing that retinol can’t do. Well, think again. There’s another retinoid that’s continuing to steal the limelight: retinal. Like retinol’s older yet feistier sibling, retinal is one step closer to retinoic acid – the purest form of retinoid – in the vitamin A conversion process, meaning it’s more powerful and it works faster.
It's easy to see why this supercharged derivative is getting so much attention – so much so that Boots’ 2024 Beauty Trend Report found that searches for ‘retinal’ have increased by 73% in the last year.
But, as it goes with most skincare, it’s important to fully understand ingredients before welcoming them into your routine. In this series of Skin Solutions, we’ve spoken to the industry’s leading experts on what differentiates retinol from retinal and how each should be used in a skincare routine. Let the retinoid battle commence.
Meet the experts
Daniel Isaacs, Medik8 Chief Product Officer
Dr Anna Protasova, dermatologist at Evolution Aesthetics Clinic
Dr Sophie Shotter, award-winning aesthetic doctor and founder of Illuminate Skin Clinic
So, what’s the difference between retinol and retinal?
Without taking you back to a GCSE science class, let’s start with the basics to understand what these different types of retinoids are. Retinol, retinal and retinoic acid are all part of the retinoid (vitamin A) family. ‘Retinol and retinal are both forms of vitamin A, but they have different chemical structures’, explains Dr Protasova. For them to work in the skin cells, they must be converted to retinoic acid.
‘Retinol is an alcohol form of vitamin A, while retinal – which is also known as retinaldehyde – is an aldehyde form. This structural difference means that retinal is one step closer to becoming retinoic acid, the most active form that affects the skin,’ she adds.
In the retinoid pathway, the fewer steps required for a retinoid to convert to retinoic acid means the stronger it will be. ‘When retinol is applied to the skin, it undergoes two conversions. First, it is converted to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid. Retinal is a next-generation vitamin A molecule that is one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol, delivering results up to 11 times faster than standard retinol,’ says Isaacs.
Best retinal serums
'A great comparison drawn by Dr Murad between the strengths of vitamin A options likens it to coffee. Retinol, the weakest of the three, is a cappuccino, while retinal is likened to a macchiato and retinoic acid, the final conversion, an espresso,' says Dr Shotter.
What about the benefits?
Both retinol and retinal are well-loved forms of retinoid, but there are some differences in their efficacy. 'When we hear about retinol we usually hear about irritation, but actually, retinol is the least likely to cause irritation,' says Dr Shotter. ‘Retinol is also popular for its anti-ageing properties. It promotes cell turnover, boosts collagen production, and helps to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots. It also improves texture and tone,’ adds Dr Protasova.
‘Retinal delivers results of up to 11 times faster than standard retinol, which is why it’s so revolutionary. It rapidly resurfaces the skin while helping the production of collagen,' says Dr Isaacs. As retinal is more potent compared to retinol, it's a brilliant solution for those with more advanced signs of ageing and deep-set wrinkles.
'On a more general level, retinal is a great solution for those who are more breakout-prone, because retinal is also excellent for blemishes and not just for the ageing process,' says Dr Shotter.
And the side effects?
Retinoids are powerhouse ingredients, but they can also come with side effects. ‘With retinal being stronger, it tends to cause more side effects like redness, peeling, dryness and irritation – especially if you have sensitive skin or if you’re new to retinoids,’ says Dr Protasova. Whether you’re using retinal or retinol, it’s important to introduce the active slowly into your skincare routine and in small doses.
Dr Shotter also explains the process of encapsulation which can help to reduce irritation. ‘Encapsulation allows an ingredient to penetrate to where it needs to be, because retinol and retinal need not be at the surface but working deeper in the dermis of the skin. Encapsulation also lessens the chances of skin irritation because the active ingredient isn’t sitting on the surface.’
Best retinol serums
Which one should you use in a skincare routine – retinal or retinol?
While one isn’t better than the other, there are a few reasons why you may use retinal over retinol. ‘When thinking about which one to pick, it’s important to remember that retinol is a more preventative ingredient, while retinal is more corrective – this is a good place to start,’ says Dr Shotter.
Adding to this, Dr Protasova says that your skin type, sensitivity and skincare goals will determine which one you pick. ‘If you’re new to retinoids, or if you have sensitive skin, retinol is a good starting point because it’s milder and causes fewer side effects. However, if you’ve used retinoids before and want quicker results, retinal might be more suitable. It’s also a good choice if you have stubborn acne or significant signs of ageing,’ she continues.
Are there any ingredients that shouldn’t be used with retinol or retinol?
When it comes to this chapter of the retinoid rule book, luckily, the regulations are a little more relaxed. ‘There are very few ingredients that can’t be used alongside retinol or retinal. I would say to use your vitamin C at the opposite end of the day and go slowly if you combine retinal or retinol with other potentially irritating ingredients,’ says Dr Shotter.
While they aren't complete no-gos, she notes that acids – in particular benzoyl peroxide – are actives that should be used tentatively alongside retinol to avoid irritation.
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What are the changes in EU retinol legislation?
If you're up-to-date with your skincare affairs, you may have heard the news about the changes to retinol legislation in the EU. The changes will limit the maximum retinol concentration in a face product to 0.3% and in body products to 0.05%. You can read all the regulations here.
'This change in legislation has come from the EU and the UK has decided to adopt it. It actually came into force back in 2022, but there was a grace period that was allowing manufacturers to reformulate. So I think in 2027 we will really start to see the difference in what's available on the shelves,' explains Dr Shotter.
Retinal formulations aren't included in the changes, so as retinol takes a back seat, now may be your chance to give this skincare powerhouse a try.
More Skin Solutions...
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