How can I reduce the amount of sugar in my baking?

I love baking, particularly biscuits, but I want to reduce my sugar intake. What’s the best way to do this?
“People always ask: ‘Can I just cut the amount of sugar in half or by a quarter?’” says Guardian baking columnist Benjamina Ebuehi, “but it will change everything!” And that, of course, is because sugar isn’t just about sweetness; its other attributes include keeping cakes moist and soft, adding flavour and caramelisation, as well as longevity. “Sugar also adds structure when combined with, say, eggs for the likes of meringue,” Ebuehi says.

Sugar is integral to biscuits and cookies, too. “The sugar content for those is high because it is part of the binding, the crispness, how the biscuit spreads, and the flavour,” says Rosie Sykes, author of Every Last Bite, and the brains behind the Friday Biscuit on Instagram.

There’s no getting away from the fact that low sugar and sugar substitutes are going to require trial and error, so there will inevitably be some trade-offs. Abigail Sarne, pastry chef and owner of Le Choux in London, says you “should be safe to reduce the sugar by a maximum of 25%. You’ll end up with something that’s pretty much the same, although the colour will be different, as will the sweetness levels, obviously.”

Fruit is another solution, thanks to its natural sugars. Sykes suggests turning to fridge biscuits made with dates (think protein ball-style), while Boston baker Joanne Chang, in her book Baking with Less Sugar, suggests soaking dates with a bit of baking soda first, to “break down the sometimes leathery skin”, before adding it to shortbread, say.

Sykes says that another “clever idea” would be to make short savoury pastry, perhaps with nuts (pecans, almonds), and with no sugar at all: “Roll out the pastry, top with some dates, then roll it back up and slice into pinwheels,. You’ll then have sweet biscuits without too much sugar.” And if dates aren’t your bag, try honey, which also adds nutrients, instead. Other than that, Sykes recommends getting creative and replacing some of the flour with cocoa: “You’re then in complete charge of your sugar destiny, and you’ll guarantee a nice, crisp finish, too.”

Unrefined sugar, specifically coconut sugar, would be Ebuehi’s first port of call, especially if muffins, simple cakes, creamy puddings or chocolate chip cookies are on the agenda: “It plays along quite well; it has good flavour and, texture-wise, you can substitute it one for one.” That said, coconut sugar is more expensive than your average bag of the sweet stuff, so you might also like to try honey, syrups and molasses, though those all bring with them a different flavour (which you may or may not welcome). Plus, they are liquids, which can throw some bakes off balance. “You’ve got to look at the amount of liquid you’re adding,” Sarne warns. “If you’re using syrup in a cookie recipe, for example, they might not hold their structure as well.”

Then there are sugar substitutes, such as xylitol, which, thanks to its low GI, has less effect on blood sugar levels and therefore useful for diabetics. Yes, it bakes much like sugar (just don’t expect the same caramelisation), but it is still a sweetener, plus some studies have reported unfavourable effects.

You can’t often have your cake and eat it, so it’s also worth looking at desserts that are naturally low in sugar. “My mum whips chocolate and eggs into a really decadent mousse,” says Sarne, and the only sugar involved is that in the chocolate. “I do pour cream on top,” she admits, “but you choose your own bad.”

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