Reach for the stars: the best dark-sky destinations in Britain
As we streak through winter, shorter daylight hours offer the best opportunity to view the dark skies before the clocks spring forward in March and the constellations shift again. This month is viewed as galaxy season in the northern hemisphere, offering the chance to see the Andromeda galaxy, our nearest galactic neighbour, just 2.5m light years away, with the naked eye.
Cambrian Mountains
Where better to see it than the Cambrian Mountains, stretching from Snowdonia to the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons), with nine official Dark Sky Discovery Sites, an International Dark Sky Park and an astro-tourism trail. In daylight the views are breathtaking, but once the sun goes down it is the vast vista above that inspires. The trail can be completed over a few nights and stargazers can glimpse Orion, the Great Plough and the North Star. During my nocturnal walk, the cloudy vein of the Milky Way poured down from the heavens along with Pleiades, a cluster of bright young stars in the constellation of Taurus. Their presence is far more visible during the winter months in the northern hemisphere, despite being 440 light years from Earth.
Darkness is measured by the Bortle scale, with 1 being the darkest skies on earth, generally found in remote deserts or the Arctic, and 9 the most light-polluted areas, typically the centre of vast, seething cityscapes. Hitting around number 2 on the scale, the Cambrian Mountains, with no human-made pollution, enjoy some of the darkest skies in Europe and make the perfect location to tune out of the noise of daily life and tune into the cosmos.
The Hafod Hotel, next to the famous waterfalls at Devils Bridge and on the edge of the Cambrian Mountains, is the ideal jumping-off point to discover the astro trail. Enjoy their hearty breakfasts, lava bread and a shot of Dà Mhìle Distillery’s Dark Skies Rum in the bar.
Doubles from £175 B&B, thehafod.co.uk; thecambrianmountains.co.uk; serydda.co.uk
Exmoor, Devon
Exmoor was designated Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserve in 2011 and, on a clear night, thousands of stars and astronomical sights can be seen from the open moorlands and heaths of this protected parkland. Keen stargazers can hire a telescope for just £25 a night at the park centre. For walkers, a two-mile Dark Sky Discovery trail has been created, with seating spots arranged for sitting back and focusing on the skies above. Stay at the Yarn Market hotel in the medieval village of Dunster inside the national park.
Doubles from £164 B&B, yarnmarkethotel.co.uk; exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk
South Downs, East Sussex
Just 100km from the bright lights of the metropolis lies Moore’s Reserve on the Sussex Downs, named in honour of one of the country’s most well-known astronomers, local man Sir Patrick Moore. The South Downs International Dark Sky Reserve worked hard to achieve and maintain dark sky status, passionately believing the skies are just as important to protect as the rolling hills below. Their annual Dark Skies Festival, running from 13 to 23 February, offers 10 days of cosmic fun with stargazing parties and nocturnal wildlife walks. Stay at community-owned village pub the Blue Bell in Cocking.
Doubles from £120 B&B, thebluebellatcocking.co.uk
The Cairngorms
Nestled high on the slopes of the Cairngorms national park, the village of Tomintoul has year-round stargazing. Viewers can see the planets Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus and Neptune, and during the dark winter months it is possible to glimpse the Geminids meteor showers. Astronomy events are run throughout the year in the Cairngorm’s Dark Sky Park. Stay at the former hunting and fishing lodge, the Richmond Arms, Tomintoul, inside the national park.
Doubles from £66 B&B, richmondarmstomintoul.co.uk; cairngormsdarkskypark.org
North York Moors
Designated an International Dark Sky Reserve in 2020, Sutton Bank, Danby and Dalby Forest in the North York Moors are all Dark Sky Discovery Sites, so called because the Milky Way is often visible with the naked eye, as is the Andromeda Galaxy, a spiral galaxy made up of 300bn suns and many planets, which is the farthest object a human eye can see without a telescope. Head to the North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales national parks from 14 February to 2 March as they celebrate their 10th Dark Skies Festival. Stay at the Fox & Hounds in Ainthorpe, an inn that was founded in 1555.
Doubles from £119, northyorkmoors.org.uk; darkskiesnationalparks.org.uk
Galloway
Dark sky rangers are on hand at Galloway Forest Park to explain the wonder of seeing more than 7,000 stars on a clear night. Along with stories of Orion the Hunter and the Apollo 13 moon landing, they’re full of fascinating facts about the galaxies, nebulas, satellites and shooting stars. Moffat, just over an hour away, is also worth a visit: Europe’s first dark sky town, it has special street lighting designed specifically to keep light pollution to a minimum. Introductory astronomy sessions are also available at the community observatory in the town. Stay at the Selkirk Arms, Kirkcudbright, on the banks of the River Dee.
Doubles from £140, selkirkarmshotel.co.uk; visitscotland.com
Isle of Rum, Hebrides
Spanning just 8 square milles, the Isle of Rum in the Inner Hebrides on Scotland’s west coast has no public lighting and only 40 full-time residents, so the skies are exceptionally clear and starry. There’s also a national nature reserve here, offering opportunities to spot golden eagles and the world’s largest population of Manx shearwaters. Small enough to walk or bike around easily, this remote island is the perfect tranquil escape. Stay at Rum Bunkhouse on the shores of Loch Scresort.
Private twin room from £84, rumbunkhouse.com; darksky.org
