‘Perfect waves and no crowds:’ Angola could be the surfing world’s best-kept secret

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Think of surfing and your mind might jump to the beaches of Hawaii, perhaps the Atlantic rollers of Portugal or more classic spots like California or Australia.

Probably not Angola.

But, it turns out, the southern African country, which has only recently begun establishing itself on the tourism map, can hold its own with the best of them when it comes to riding the oceans.

So far, it’s only really attracting the more adventurous surfers, with little infrastructure on offer for those who make it there. That’s changing though, with at least one surf travel provider already helping board sports enthusiasts find that next big wave.

AngolaWaves is run by Bizuka Barros, a Portuguese-Angolan and Oded Golan, who is originally from Israel but has resided in Angola for more than 15 years. Their business is dedicated to promoting Angola as a surf destination while supporting local communities and sustainable development in the surf tourism industry.

While they do have repeat customers, some of their work, according to the pair, involves persuading the uninitiated that Angola is a viable surf destination -– fielding questions about visas, general safety, flights, malaria concerns and even shark attacks.

Barros says Angola is indeed a safe destination, especially outside the bustling capital, Luanda. He advises that the threat of malaria is lower during the dry season (May-September), which also offers more consistent surf swells. And tourist visas are now easily obtainable.

Surfers’ paradise

While there are numerous surf spots in Angola, much of the action centers around Cabo Ledo, a stunning, empty beach about 120 kilometers (75 miles) south of Luanda, where geological and meteorological conditions have created an almost perfect environment for novices and experts.

The pristine sands and clear waters make it popular with ordinary beachgoers, especially those seeking a break from the capital. But it’s the prevailing winds, which bring long waves and easy surf, that make it a surfing paradise.

The bay hosts a consistent, slow-rolling, very long left-hander point break, catering to surfers of all skill levels. In addition to this gem, two more advanced, faster waves materialize when the swell is big enough. It’s known locally as “Praia do Surfistas,” or Surfers’ Beach.

“It’s a very long wave,” says Paulo Agusto, a local entrepreneur. “We are talking about 3, 4, 500-meter waves on a good day – and we got surf days all year. And no crowd here!”

There’s a choice of accommodation, from campsites to more upscale options like Doçe Mar Resort, situated right on the shoreline. Temperatures typically hover around 30 C (86 F) all year round.

“It’s very, very easy to learn because we can catch the wave here and to go to catch another one, we can go by foot just walking on the beach,” says Gillas Cros, a French expat enjoying a surfing session. “We can enter on the water and take the wave.”

Keeping it special

Paulo Rodrigues, from Portugal, says it’s the perfect spot to learn the basics.

“Very good to learn and very good to spend some nice time in the sea… warm temperature, the water is great,” he says. “And the sea is not harsh and all the surroundings, you know. It’s… a very peaceful beach.”

It’s not just surfers and grown-ups enjoying the waves at Cabo Ledo. Tchyina Matos, who runs the Kalemba Radical Association, a nonprofit offering sporting opportunities to youngsters, has brought a van load of kids to practice skimboarding – which involves smaller boards, launched by running in from the shallows and skidding over the water – some for the first time.

“It started 11 years ago… as a project to take kids from the street,” says Matos of her organization. “We have a lot of boys that were trying… drugs or starting to rob people. And then I saw an opportunity to put the kids doing sports and not doing bad things.”

Cabo Ledo plays a major part in this, she says.

“The thing that’s special in here is that, beside the nature … people when (they) come here, they just change,” she adds, noting that the children are more communicative and more “human” when they visit.

“Even if they don’t know each other, they help each other, so it’s totally different.”

Agusto, the resort owner, says steps are taken to make sure that Cabo Ledo stays special.

“We got a few rules on that beach,” he says. These include no lighting fires on the sand, no loud music, no generators or electric lights and take all garbage home.

“It’s just simple rules,” he says. “And you see the beach is clean. Everybody respects, there’s no confusion on that beach, no noise… So everybody loves to come.”

Martian landscapes

AngolaWaves runs surfing safari itineraries in the area and further down the coast to wilder and even more remote spots, using a fleet of 4x4 vehicles to connect visitors with the best waves the country has to offer and take advantage of shifting weather conditions.

Destinations include Catanas Point, a four-hour drive south from Cabo Ledo, which features an awe-inspiring A-frame wave breaking over a rock formation that produces beautiful left-hand waves and fast, hollow right-handers against the backdrop of a pristine bay.

In front of the surf spot, Sergio Torres and his partner Cecilia run a campsite and a social project that offers educational support and surf-coaching to local children.

Further south, passing over tropical savannah and rugged desert landscape, the safari also takes in the coastline of the Namibe Reserve, a protected natural area where huge sand dunes roll up against the water.

Here, the surfers stay in temporary campsites, making sure they’re close to the action when the swell builds. The Angola Waves team provides them with cooked meals to keep energy levels up for huge ocean sessions. During quieter times, there are ukulele jam sessions around the campfire.

Further south, the safari also takes in a legendary point break near the town of Tomuba, where the beach is surrounded by a parched orange landscape that some visiting surfers have compared to the pictures sent from the surface of Mars by NASA rovers.

Such scenes have already begun to cement Angola’s word-of-mouth reputation among adventurous surfers constantly in search of the perfect wave.

One surfer, a teacher from Israel who did not want to be named for personal reasons, summed up the experience as he prepared to head home after an epic 12-day AngolaWaves adventure, where his group surfed empty lineups.

“I will miss surfing these perfect waves with no crowds!”

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