How to have a perfect holiday in Malta
Malta may be small, but it’s one of the most densely populated places in the world. The country is formed from five islands, the most famous of which are Malta itself and its sleepier sibling Gozo, but there’s also Comino, and the uninhabited Kemmunett and Filfla. Its northerly neighbour Sicily sees more tourist footfall, but it’s worth making the 60-mile voyage further south to the Maltese archipelago.
With Tunisia to the west and Libya to the south, it has a lot of Arabic influences, especially in the language; and a fascinating history thanks to various occupations over the centuries, including the Romans, the Moors, the Knights of Saint John and the British. The late Queen Elizabeth II spent some happy years living here with her young family between 1949 and 1951, when Prince Philip was stationed on the island as a naval officer. Here’s how to enjoy the perfect holiday to Malta…
Where to stay
In Valletta, Iniala Harbour House is one of the most luxurious places to stay, a hotel that has it all, from a spa in the vaults to a twice-Michelin-starred restaurant up on the terrace overlooking the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities. The hotel was created from a series of townhouses, with grand residences making the most of the original detailing and lofty proportions. We stayed in a two-bedroom apartment that we would happily have made our full-time dwelling. The vast, double-height living area in this spectacular suite has a dining table, a bar and kitchen, and a lounge, as well as an enclosed balcony (typical of this part of the world) with a prime view of the harbour. When the regular fireworks begin popping over the Three Cities, lots of people gather on the street below to view them – this room provides one of those pinch-me vantage points. The master bedroom is graced with exotic wallpaper featuring parrots and palm trees, glass-fronted wardrobes and a double shower in the ensuite bathroom. It’s supremely comfortable and the ideal place in which to hide out during the heat of the day in Malta’s sweltering summer.
Iniala Harbour House is on St Barbara Bastion, a short stroll away from some of Valletta’s most scenic sights – iconic red British phone boxes, the Upper Barrakka Gardens and the steep staircases leading up to the buzzy thoroughfare Merchant’s Street are all on your doorstep.
Over in Mdina, a fortified medieval city and one of the best preserved places on the island, the Xara Palace has a special setting within the ancient walls. Most visitors to Mdina come and go, but for the lucky few staying at the palace and the handful of other hotels within the city, overnight access is granted. The hotel was once the private palazzo of a noble family, with the piano nobile used for entertaining now the main corridor of rooms. The high-ceilinged suite we stayed in had far-reaching views out across the island, a cosy living area overlooking the interior courtyard, and a spacious bedroom.
On arrival at the Xara Palace, we were greeted warmly and offered our pick of welcome drinks – my simple order of sparkling water was soon padded out with a flat white by the hospitable staff. The hotel has a Michelin-starred restaurant on its terrace, a trattoria next door and another restaurant in town. And if you’re travelling en masse, you can still enjoy the Xara experience, by booking the six-bedroom sister property Villa Barumbara tal-Larinġ, in the countryside near Rabat.
What to do
Valletta is one of the prettiest capital cities in Europe – it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for good reason. Simply strolling around, stopping for a pastizzi (a Maltese pasty) or gelato, is to be encouraged, but we warn you, you’ll be stopping to take photographs regularly. The streets with staircases traversing up and down are some of the most photogenic. For people-watching, it’s hard to beat a terrace table at Caffe Cordina, which has been supplying the denizens of Valletta with caffeine since 1837.
Malta has been used as a filming location for countless big-budget productions over the years, most notably the original Gladiator and, more recently, the sequel. Fort Ricasoli, in Kalkara across the Grand Harbour from Valletta, provided a convincing double for ancient Rome – sadly it’s not often open to visitors, but you can admire it from afar across the water. It was built by the Order of Saint John in the late 17th century. From Valletta, it’s easy to catch a ferry over to explore the Three Cities, arriving at the port in Senglea as your starting point.
There are lots of beautiful beaches on the island, which is handy, given how hot it gets in the summer. We loved Gnejna Bay and Mellieha, both of which are great for families. The Blue Grotto at the edge of the fishing village of Wied iż-Żurrieq is worth a visit, too. Swim off the rocks (the brave can jump in, but there’s a step ladder for the less so) before joining a boat tour to take you into the caves and closer to the clear turquoise waters.
Where to eat
If you’re in search of fine-dining, you won’t be disappointed in Malta – and if you’re staying at Iniala Harbour House or the Xara Palace, you won’t have to travel very far for a Michelin-starred meal. At the former, British chef Simon Rogan oversees ION Harbour, which is the only restaurant on the island that holds two Michelin stars. Shorter menus are available for both lunch and dinner, but we recommend settling in for the exquisite 13-course feast – you won’t be disappointed. It was impossible to choose a favourite from all those plates of perfection, but if pressed, we’d go for the sea bream with black garlic, roasted shrimp and chamomile vinegar sauce. They were all served alongside an incredible view of the Grand Harbour at sunset, with fireworks erupting every few minutes.
The Xara Palace’s De Mondion restaurant offers an equally unforgettable dining experience, with a rather lovely terrace to enjoy it on too. We especially enjoyed the agnolotti pasta, the tuna and red shrimp tartlet and a peach pudding with Szechuan pepper to offset the sweetness. For an aperitif, we tried some Maltese sparkling wine, made in a vineyard visible from the terrace.
In the heart of Valletta, Gracy’s is set within a 17th-century palazzo overlooking historic St George’s Square. The menu is entirely modern, though, with supersize sharing cuts of meat and fish cooked in a Big Green Egg barbecue, and dishes such as tuna with ponzu and steak tartare with chimichurri all featuring.
BOOK A STAY AT INIALA HARBOUR HOUSE
BOOK A STAY AT THE XARA PALACE
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