Here's how to knit your own Santa Claus
Christmas knitting patterns are some of the most fun and enjoyable to make approaching the festive season. Made with love, our free Santa Claus knitting pattern makes a fabulous gift. It's such a fun Christmas craft project to work on over the festive period – if you get started now, you've just got time to finish him before Christmas!
This pattern is perfect if you've mastered the basic knitting stitches and want to use them to make sweet decorations for Christmas. It would make a lovely handmade Christmas gift – or keep it for yourself to display year after year.
As well as the pattern, our guide will take you through how to make your Santa look as professional as possible – including how to make him stand up and how to embroider the key details.
If you've been inspired, there are so many other brilliant Christmas knitting and crochet project ideas. Why not try our free snowman knitting pattern or our free elf knitting pattern – they're both the perfect companion for your knitted Father Christmas!
Best yarn for knitting your Santa
This free Santa knitting pattern is suitable for knitters who know their basic knit and purls and uses only the simplest of techniques. You don't have to be an expert knitter to love this pattern!
As with any 3D knits, the proof really is in the pudding – with the sewing up and embroidery making the difference when you come to the finishing touches. But don't worry, we take you through each of these parts step by step in the pattern.
How to make Santa Claus stand up
When it comes to helping your knitted figures or handmade Christmas decorations stand up when propped, a little cardboard insert in the sole or base is always useful. However, remember that cardboard isn’t washable.
If you'd like to pop your Santa in the washing machine, we’d recommend a firm interfacing instead (the type you would stitch into handmade shirt collars).
How to knit Santa
We’ve suggested the use of stitch markers – 3D knits can be a bit fiddly to work out what needs to be stitched where.
But you don’t need to have fancy markers, you can easily use waste yarn in a contrast colour or even a safety pin to mark certain points on your knitting that you’ll need to refer back to later.
Materials
1 x DK Acrylic yarn in Red (A)
1 x DK Acrylic yarn in Pastel Pink (B)
1 x DK Acrylic yarn in Pure White (C)
1 x DK Acrylic yarn in Black (D)
Oddments of DK Acrylic yarn in Mustard
Needles
One pair of 3mm (UK11) knitting needles
Stitch markers (optional)
Cardboard or pompom makers
Soft red coloured pencil (optional)
Measurements
His finished height from base of feet to top of head is around 38cm.
Tension
Not essential
Knitting abbreviations
RS, right side; WS, wrong side; K, knit; P, purl; St(s), stitch(es); Inc, work twice into next st keeping pattern correct (knitwise on a knit row, purlwise on a purl row); Rep, repeat; Pm, place marker; Rem, remaining; Tog, together; SKPO, slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over; Foll, following; Alt, alternate; St-st, stocking stitch: k on RS and p on WS; LH, left-hand; RH, right-hand.
Click here for our full glossary of knitting abbreviations.
Santa free knitting pattern
Body
Using 3mm needles and A, cast on 16 sts.
Row 1 (RS): (Inc kwise) to end. (32 sts)
Row 2 and all foll alt rows: P.
Row 3: (Inc, k1) to end. (48 sts)
Row 5: K.
Row 7: (Inc, k2) to end. (64 sts)
Row 9: K.
Row 11: (Inc, k3) to end. (80 sts)
Rows 13 and 15: K.
Row 17: (Inc, k4) to end. (96 sts)
Starting with a P row, work 31 rows in st-st without shaping.
Row 49: (K4, k2tog) to end. (80 sts)
Rows 51 and 53: K.
Row 55: (K3, k2tog) to end. (64 sts)
Row 57: K.
Row 59: (K2, k2tog) to end. (48 sts)
Row 61: (K1, k2tog) to end. (32 sts)
Row 62: P.
Break off A and join in B.
Row 63: (K3, inc) to end (40 sts)
Row 65: (K4, inc) to end (48 sts)
Row 67: K.
Row 69: (K5, inc) to end. (56 sts)
Row 71: K.
Row 73: (K6, inc) to end. (64 sts)
Starting with a P row, work 19 rows in st-st without shaping.
Row 93: (K6, k2tog) to end. (56 sts)
Row 95: K.
Row 97: (K5, k2tog) to end. (48 sts)
Row 99: K.
Row 101: (K4, k2tog) to end. (40 sts)
Row 103: (K3, k2tog) to end. (32 sts)
Row 105: (K2, k2tog) to end. (24 sts)
Row 107: (K1, k2tog) to end. (16 sts)
Row 109: (K2tog) to end. (8 sts)
Cut yarn leaving a long tail and draw through rem sts. Use this yarn to join row-end edges along back seam using mattress stitch[FP2] and stuff firmly before gathering up cast-on edge. Work a row of running stitch around the colour change row to accentuate the neck shaping.
Legs (make 2)
Using 3mm needles and D, cast on 18 sts and place a marker on the cast-on edge between stitches 9 and 10.
Row 1 (RS): (Inc) twice, k4, (inc) 6 times, k4, (inc) twice. (28 sts)
Row 2 and foll alt rows: P.
Row 3: (Inc, k1) twice, k4, (inc, k1) 6 times, k4, (inc, k1) twice. (38 sts).
Row 5: K10, (inc, k2) 6 times, k to end. (44 sts)
Row 7: K10, (inc, k3) 6 times, k to end. (50 sts)
Row 9: P.
Starting with a P row, work 7 rows in st-st ending with a WS row.
Row 17: K10, (k2tog, k3) 6 times, k to end. (44 sts).
Row 18: P.
Row 19: K.
Row 20: P.
Row 21: K10 (k2tog, k2) 6 times, k to end. (38 sts)
Row 22: P.
Row 23: K10, (k2tog, k1) 6 times, k to end. (32 sts)
Row 24: P.
Break off D and join in C.
Rows 25 – 30: K.
Break off C and join in A.
Starting with a K row, work 16 rows in st-st. Cast off.
Join row ends. Folding sole at marker, stitch along cast-on edge to create a flat sole, lining up the purl ridge so that it sits neatly around the foot edge. If desired, you can cut out a piece of cardboard or stiff interfacing in the shape of the sole to keep it firm and insert into the foot before stuffing. Stitch legs to underside of body ensuring body back seam remains at centre back.
Arms (make 2)
Using 3mm needles and B, cast on 13 stitches, placing a marker at the 5th and 10th sts.
Row 1 (RS): K3, inc, k5, inc, k3. (15 sts)
Row 2 and foll alt rows: P.
Row 3: K4, inc, k5, inc, k4. (17 sts)
Row 5: K4, inc, k7, inc, k4. (19 sts)
Row 7: K5, inc, k7, inc, k5. (21 sts)
Row 9: K5, inc, k9, inc, k5. (23 sts)
Row 11: K.
Row 12: P.
Break off B and join in C.
K 6 rows.
Break off C and join in A.
Beg with a K row, work 26 rows in st-st.
Row 45 (RS): Cast off 5, k to end. (18 sts)
Row 46: Cast off 5, p to end. (13 sts)
Row 47: K1, skpo, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Row 48: P.
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more. (5 sts)
Cast off.
Join row ends. Folding at markers, join cast-on edge to form hand shape. Stuff.
Thumbs (make 2)
Using 3mm needles and B, cast on 6 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: P.
Row 3: (K2tog) to end. (3 sts)
Cut off yarn leaving a long tail. Draw through rem sts and pull tight. Join row ends, stuff and stitch to arm beneath white cuff ridge.
Stitch arms to body using photos as a guide. The shaped top area of the arm forms the shoulder with the lower cast-off edge forming the underarm. Add a little extra stuffing to the shoulder before you close the seam to help accentuate the shape.
Beard
Using 3mm needles and C, cast on 3 sts.
Row 1 (RS): Inc, k to last st, inc. (5 sts)
Row 2: K.
Rep last 2 rows 16 times. (37 sts)
Row 35: As row 1.
Rows 36-38: K.
Rep last 4 rows 3 more times. (45 sts)
Cast off.
Stitch in place to head, using photo as a guide, along cast-off edge.
Hat
Using C, cast on 84 sts.
Row 1 (WS) – 7: K.
Break off C and join in A.
Starting with a K row, work 24 rows in st-st.
Row 32 (RS): (K12, k2tog) to end. (78 sts)
Row 33 and all foll alt rows: P.
Row 34: K.
Row 36: (K11 k2tog) to end. (72 sts)
Row 38: K.
Row 40: (K10, k2tog) to end. (66 sts)
Row 42: K.
Row 44: (K9, k2tog) to end. (60 sts)
Row 46: K.
Row 48: (K8, k2tog) to end. (54 sts)
Row 50: K.
Row 52: (K7, k2tog) to end. (48 sts)
Row 54: K.
Row 56: (K6, k2tog) to end. (42 sts)
Row 58: K.
Row 60: (K5, k2tog) to end. (36 sts)
Row 62: K.
Row 64: (K4, k2tog) to end. (30 sts)
Row 66: K.
Row 68: (K3, k2tog) to end. (24 sts)
Row 70: K.
Row 72: (K2, k2tog) to end. (18 sts)
Row 74: K.
Row 76: (K1, k2tog) to end. (12 sts)
Row 77: P.
Cut yarn leaving a long end. Gather up rem sts and use long end of yarn to join row ends using mattress stitch. Make a 5cm pompom in C and stitch to tip.
Stitch hat to overlap slightly with the beard corners on the head. You can stuff the hat lightly if you desire.
Nose
Using 3mm needles and B, cast on 12 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: P.
Row 3: K.
Row 4: (P2tog) to end. (6 sts)
Cut off yarn and draw through rem sts. Join row ends and stuff, and stitch to centre of face overlapping the beard and the head. Embroider eyes using black and a mouth using red. If desired, use a soft red coloured pencil to add a gentle blush to the cheeks.
Belt and lower coat edge
Using 3mm needles and D, cast on 100 sts.
Row 1 (WS): K.
Row 2: K.
Row 3: P.
Row 4: K.
Row 5: K.
Break off D and join in C.
K 7 rows. Cast off on WS.
Join row ends and align with centra back seam. Stitch to body at widest point. Using Mustard oddment and chain stitch, embroider a rectangular buckle around centre of black strip.
Coat trim
Using 3mm needles and C, cast on 72 sts.
K 6 rows. Cast off.
Starting above belt buckle, stitch strip up centre of body and around the neck, tucking the row-end edge at the neck underneath the centre strip.
Buttons (make 3)
Using 3mm needles and D, Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Break yarn leaving a long tail and thread through rem sts. Pull tight and join row ends.
Evenly space the three buttons along the coat trim centre strip and stitch in place.
Now that you’ve knitted your free Santa knitting pattern, explore out our crochet and knitting patterns that make great gifts.
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Have you made a knitted Santa? Share your creation with us by tagging @primamag in your pictures on Instagram!
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