North Korea just opened its borders again. Here’s why you should visit

Going on holiday to North Korea

Already one of the most reclusive and secretive countries in the world, North Korea slammed its borders shut in 2020 with some of the most draconian COVID-19 restrictions in the world. Recent reports, however, suggest it is readying to open its doors again to foreign visitors by the end of 2024, so we spoke to a handful of intrepid travellers who have made the trip to find out what it's really like to travel to North Korea.

Read on to discover 35 things that make the country such a fascinating destination to visit...

You'll be accompanied by guides

The best way to travel to North Korea is through an organised tour company. Technically it’s possible to go without one, but you’ll still need to be accompanied by a pair of guides, so a fully independent trip is impossible. No need to stress though. With the news that the country is again opening its borders, North Korean specialists like Koryo Tours and Uri Tours are busily filling their schedules with both group and private tours.

It’s easier to get a visa than you might think, unless you're American

Despite the mystery shrouding North Korea, the process of obtaining a tourist visa is actually very simple, “The only requirement is that you are booked on a pre-planned tour with two North Korean guides for company,” Dylan Harris from Lupine Travel told The Telegraph before COVID restrictions were imposed. While it is expected that specialist tour companies will once again be able to ease the process for most tourists, American passport holders will not be able to visit without special permission from the US Department of State.

You may need to leave your phone at the airport

In 2013 regulations on foreign mobile phones entering North Korea were dramatically eased meaning that visitors with 'qualifying phones' no longer had to check in their handset before entering the country. You’ll need to buy a sim card from Koryolink once you arrive but you won’t be able to make local calls. The closed network is closely monitored by the government, restricting your calls to most foreign countries, foreign embassies in Pyongyang and international hotels in the North Korean capital.

You should be careful when taking photographs

While taking photos is not wholly forbidden in North Korea, you should exercise caution. Your guides will tell you when you can get your camera out, and it's highly likely your camera will be checked by border officials when you leave North Korea too. You'll be told not to take pictures of military personnel or construction sites, and reminded that pictures of statues of the Kims should include the entire statue – cutting off the feet or the head is a major no-no, as are selfies.

There are statues of North Korea’s leaders everywhere

Speaking of statues, you'll never be far from a tribute to the country's leaders, past or present. There are over 34,000 statues of the late Kim Il-sung alone. In Pyongyang's Grand Monument on Mansu Hill, you'll find over 200 statues of military leaders, including 66-foot-tall (20m) bronze statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. Visitors are expected to bow to statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il when visiting them, and will usually be asked to lay flowers at their base.

There’s a huge festival dedicated to art and gymnastics

The Arirang Mass Games are a big deal here. Once an annual event, the games are an extravagant show of patriotism, involving thousands of performers and participants. The Games are held in the incredible Rungrado 1st of May Stadium, built on an island on the Taedong River in Pyongyang. It is the largest stadium in the world by capacity, holding a staggering 150,000 people, each one enthralled by the breathtaking displays. The Mass Games were last held in 2020 and are expected to return now that COVID restrictions have been lifted.

Pyongyang has a surprising microbrewery scene

Pyongyang might not be the first place you expect to find great beer culture – but the city hasn’t escaped the global obsession with craft brew. The top three breweries are Taedonggang National Brewery, Yanggakdo Hotel Microbrewery and The Paradise Microbrewery (pictured). Advertising worker Josh Thomas, who visited all three, said: “The North Koreans are incredibly clever at making do with very little, and they honestly are able to make more interesting beers than most other countries."

There are several large theme parks

The country also boasts a handful of large theme parks, most of which are clustered around the capital. They do, however, come with mixed reviews. The Washington Post described Munsu Water Park (pictured), completed in 2013, as “the creepiest waterpark you’ve ever seen." But theme park fan Stefan Zwanzger, who visited the country in 2010, told CNN: "There's no other occasion that you can get so close to locals as in the amusement parks."

North Korea’s metro stations rival Russia’s

Pyongyang’s subway stations are some of the most spectacular in the world. Photographer Elaine Li, who visited in 2017, told CNN: “The stations are very dimly lit and the interiors are very fancy. You see chandeliers on the ceilings, marble pillars and paintings of Kim Jong-il.” They've also got some of the longest escalators in the world (hardly surprising given it's the world's deepest metro system) and are designed to double as bomb shelters.

You can go to university in Pyongyang

Before the pandemic, a number of foreign students were furthering their education in North Korean universities. The Pyongyang University for Science and Technology actively encouraged applications from foreign teachers, with several Americans working there in the past. Even more surprisingly, the institution was founded by Korean-American James Kim, an evangelical Christian who opened the university in 2010. It is not without its risks, however. Australian student Alek Sigley was expelled from Pyongyang's Kim Il-Sung University in 2019 after being accused of being a spy.

They have modern technology

Denis Sharpe, who visited North Korea in 2017, said he was surprised by the amount of technology and other goods you can find in the country. "There is actually a department store full of consumer goods that you would find in a market-led economy. As I was there for New Year, we were taken to Kim Il-Sung Square, where there was a fireworks display at midnight – many North Koreans were filming on mobile phones."

They have pizza and fried chicken

Though traditional Korean food is, of course, ubiquitous, you can find fast food treats such as pizza and fried chicken too. Sharpe says: "We had kimchi, hot pot and even one serving of dog soup. But the new regime has made efforts to offer more cosmopolitan cuisines in Pyongyang too. We had a pizza on the tour bus one day (complete with Pizza Hut packaging).” Some Pyongyang pizzerias are even sending chefs to be trained in Italy and import flour and other ingredients from the country to ensure an authentic Italian taste.

Propaganda is everywhere

Sharpe also noticed a large amount of propaganda across the country, particularly in relation to the Korean War. "It’s often best to nod along in agreement and not challenge the information presented to you – who knows what would happen if you disagreed too vehemently?" he says.

It's very safe

Tom McShane, operations director of adventure travel company Secret Compass, went to North Korea in 2016. According to McShane, the country is generally very safe for tourists and the guides you'll meet are charming and hospitable. "There is practically zero crime, and we were briefed by the guides about the rules," he says. "We were aware of the implications if you flout those rules, such as what happened to Otto Warmbier – but as long as you are sensible, it is all mostly common sense."

It's a beautiful country

McShane found himself bowled over by the sheer beauty of North Korea's landscapes. "The mountains were incredible, and as we were trekking in autumn all of the trees displayed amazing colours of reds and orange," he remembers. Mount Kumgang (pictured) is particularly beautiful and rightly celebrated in art and literature in the country.

There are plans to build a major beach resort

Those who make it to North Korea often speak of the country’s natural beauty – and its sandy beaches are no exception. Incredibly, the gorgeous strand at Wonsan is often used as a site for controversial missile testing. In 2019 CNN reported that Kim Jong-un’s government plans to open a large beach resort here in a bid to attract tourists. The future result remains to be seen.

The food is surprisingly good

Despite previous misgivings, McShane describes the food as a highlight of his trip – he was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the dishes presented and the variety on offer. He says: "It was mostly Korean style, but we also had some North Korean specialities such as cold noodle soup, which is traditionally served at wedding banquets. We visited a restaurant in Wonsan for lunch that served amazing fresh fish too."

The people are lovely

McShane was taken with the people of North Korea too. "Most of the people we saw were going about their normal lives, whether it was commuting in the cities, or working in the farms in the countryside," he says. "Most people we did engage with were obviously working in the service industry. Everyone was incredibly courteous, polite and well mannered. The guides were exceptional, with incredible English, senses of humour and knowledge."

The hotels are decent and varied

When it comes to accommodation, there's a decent amount of choice and many hotels have fantastic amenities. "We got to stay in a big tower based on an island in Pyongyang. It has a bowling alley and karaoke bar," McShane explains. "We also stayed in a guesthouse in Myohyangsan which felt a little Chinese in style, and we got to stay in a hotel at the new ski resort, which was of a very high standard."

There's an International Friendship Museum

Perhaps one of the most unique sights is the International Friendship Museum, which contains more than 100,000 gifts presented to North Korea's leaders. According to McShane: "There is a taxidermied crocodile from Nicaragua, a bulletproof car from Stalin, and a train from Chairman Mao, which are all situated deep within a mountain. It was truly bonkers!"

You can visit no man's land

Freelance travel writer Lucy Corne took a trip to North Korea in 2008 and got to see the demilitarized zone (DMZ) – a buffer zone between the neighbouring countries – from both the north and south sides. “It was very interesting to visit the demilitarized zone tour from the north as we had also done it from the south. We discovered that both sides feed propaganda: for example in the south they tell you there are no trees in the north and that the building at the DMZ is just a facade with nothing behind it, which is not actually true.”

Everything is big

Freelance journalist Tamara Hinson toured in 2011 and was taken aback by "the scale of everything", from the monuments to the mountains to the sheer amount of people at the Mass Games (an arts and gymnastics festival unique to North Korea).

You see a contrived version of the country

Beyond this, Hinson doubts that tourists see a full picture of the country. Meetings with locals are carefully orchestrated – Hinson visited co-op farms and a school during her stay – and tour groups are generally not allowed to leave their hotel once settled at night. "I found it weird thinking that often just out of sight there could be a prison camp: some are the size of entire counties and close to Pyongyang," Hinson says. "When you’re in a tour group you follow a very set route."

Government "minders" follow you everywhere

Hinson also describes how so-called 'minders' accompany guests on tours – three such individuals accompanied Hinson's group. "The British leader of my group told me how years ago someone on one of his tours had been caught wearing glasses with a hidden camera, which is the most stupid thing to do," she reveals. "The North Korean guide was very upset because it all blew up. Everyone knew and word could have potentially got back that this had happened on her watch and she’d be punished."

You aren't just responsible for your own safety

Breaking rules can have consequences for those around you, as well as yourself. If you choose to disobey orders, it may be your guide who is punished. "Our British tour leader told us that sometimes he’ll come back to the country to do a tour and ask about a guide he’s been allocated on previous occasions, and has been told that he’s 'been sent to the countryside', which essentially means he’s been sent to a prison camp," Hinson says.

You can't ask too many questions

However curious you might be, it's best to avoid posing too many questions. Hinson says: "I asked our British guide where Kim Jong-il lived (I went just before he died) and he told me to be quiet. Many North Koreans view him as a demi-god who doesn't do normal things like use the toilet and live in a house."

There are some odd rules

Some of the many rules enforced may seem odd to visitors, and they can be difficult to get your head around. "Don’t fold anything with the Kims’ faces on the cover if the crease will go across the face. This applies to things like the copy of the Pyongyang Times you’re given on the flight over there," Hinson advises.

Your money might support nefarious activities

Hinson explains that, since you'll travel on an inclusive tour, you'll not need much money while travelling in North Korea. But she purports that money you do spend could be put to problematic use. She claims: "North Korea desperately wants cash to fund dodgy smuggling and other enterprises, such as money laundering. Tourists give money to the regime by paying for the hotels, meals and more.”

There's a side to the country you'll never see

Many people underestimate the North Korean stories that remain hidden from view, Hinson believes. She reveals one she discovered after her trip: "I met Shin Dong-hyuk, a former prisoner who escaped a North Korean prison camp and is now a human rights activist. Shin is in his late 40s, but was born in a prison camp. As a child, he was forced to watch his mother be executed for plotting an escape. I also read about other defectors’ stories."

You can take part in a North Korean marathon

First opened to foreign amateur runners in 2014, the Pyongyang Marathon has become a bucket-list course for runners around the world. Competitors can run a 5k, 10k, Half or Full Marathon along a route that takes in some of the city’s most iconic sights including the Arc of Triumph and Kim Il Sung Square (pictured). The race finishes at the Kim Il Sung Stadium in front of a crowd of 50,000 people. With COVID restrictions lifted, specialist tour companies are expected to start running tours to coincide with the event again.

There's plenty of food for tourists

Simon Cockerell, general manager of North Korea tour specialist Koryo Tours, explains many tourists believe there will not be enough food for everyone to eat due to past famine in North Korea. “I have been on tours when some people have brought vast amounts of food with them. If they were given nothing to eat on the trip they would still have had more than enough just from what was in their case.”

Pyongyang is home to the tallest pyramid in the world

Never officially finished and beset by problems almost as soon as building began in 1986, Pyongyang’s brutally beautiful Ryugyong Hotel pierces the sky, dwarfing everything around it. Its distinctive pyramid shape was a workaround to North Korea’s lack of lightweight construction materials and modern technology. Made instead with reinforced concrete, the hotel needed to have a huge base to reach its dizzying height, inadvertently becoming the tallest pyramid-shaped building in the world, surpassing even the Shard in London and the Transamerica Pyramid in San Francisco.

North Korean archaeologists have discovered a unicorn lair

Shockwaves rippled around the world in 2012 when it emerged that North Korean archaeologists had discovered the lair of the unicorn rode by King Tongmyong, the legendary founder of the Koguryo Kingdom. The cave was discovered a short distance from the Tongmyong Temple on Moran Hill near Pyongyang, pictured here in the 1930s. The fervid hopes of unicorn lovers were quickly dashed when scholars declared it was more likely the lair of a kirin, an equally mythical creature with the body of a deer, the face of a lion and a horn jutting out from the top of its head too.

Pyongyang hosts an International Film Festival

Kim Jong-il, North Korea’s 'Dear Leader’ before Kim Jong-un, was a notorious cinephile. He reportedly owned more than 20,000 videos and DVDs and once kidnapped South Korean actress Choi Eun-hee and her boyfriend and forced them to produce several films for him. In 1987, he inaugurated the Pyongyang International Film Festival as a bi-annual event celebrating films from non-aligned and other developing countries. In 2000 the festival began screening films from western countries, usually heavily censored and always emphasising strong family values, loyalty and the evil of money.

You can ski at a world-class ski resort

Welcome to perhaps the most incongruous sight in the whole of North Korea, the £76 million ($100m) Masikryong Ski Resort, built by Kim Jong-un in 2014 to serve as the joint training facility for North and South Korean skiers competing in the 2018 PyeongChang Winter Olympics. Located in Kangwon Province, some 110 miles (177km) east of Pyongyang, the resort is now open to the public – well, those who can afford to visit it – and boasts 10 north-facing runs, six lifts, and 2,300 vertical feet (701m) of sweet northeast Asian powder.

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