The Nineties Choppy Bob Is Hairdressing's Comeback Kid

choppy bob
The Choppy Bob Is Making A Comeback For AutumnRon Galella, Ltd. - Getty Images

Whether you're looking to upgrade your signature style for autumn or brave a dramatic new cut, the choppy bob is the most effortless way to embrace a shorter hairstyle. Characterised by its various layers and undone texture, the cut can be worn across pretty much every hair type and has iconic celebrity roots throughout modern history (and still now in 2024 - cough, Hailey Bieber).

'A choppy bob has graduated layers that have been cut in to create uneven ends,' says hairstylist and Silke London founder, Maria Sotiriou. 'Uneven ends create movement and a more tousled style.'

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Borrowing ample inspiration from both the late seventies and the early nineties, the snippy cut has proven to have an enduring appeal that has lasted throughout the decades. The early poster girl for the cut was Debbie Harry, whose peroxide cut featured undone movement, statement layers and a memorable chopped fringe. Winona Ryder carried the torch throughout 1989 and 1990, showcasing a snipped, chin-length cut that we look back to still in 2024. Today, you can find the cut throughout the red carpet, co-signed by Dakota Johnson, Billie Eilish and Laura Harrier, all in recent years.

Thinking of buying into the trend? Here is everything you need to know.

How Do You Cut A Choppy Bob?

The best part of the choppy bob is that it is entirely customisable, from length to layers. You can keep it short (we're talking jaw-length) or allow to flow to shoulder height; it just needs to have a chopped finish and lots of layers (these can be longer, softer layers, or more extreme).

'I would always start with a solid base that you can then chop into, there's a lot of space to make creative choices to change it up each time and edit the cut as you go,' says Katy Grimshaw, founder of Spectrum One Hair Extensions.

According to Sotiriou, when cutting a choppy bob it’s important to keep the front area slightly longer than the back. 'The base should be left heavy and weighted because that is an important element of a bob haircut,' she says. 'Graduated layering is the method used, this means the hair isn’t lifted high and too far away from the base length. Each section is incrementally raised to create graduation, then the ends of each section are chopped into with the tip of the scissors. This is why this style is called a chopped bob.'

How Do You Style A Choppy Bob?

If you're someone with limited styling time in the morning, the choppy bob could be perfect for you. 'A chopped bob has plenty of natural movement, to retain it avoid over styling,' says Sotiriou. 'Tip the head forward and dry with a hair dryer with the diffuser attached. The graduated layers will really come to life and create volume.'

Grimshaw recommends reaching for a sea salt spray once the hair has dried; it adds additional texture and definition, which is what enhances a chopped bob best, she says. 'My favourite is O&M's Surf Bomb as it creates nice lightweight movement. You can also wear it smoother or with a soft wave, if that's more your style I would use the hair straighteners to create a soft bend through the hair.'

choppy bob
Matteo Scarpellini - LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT


How Do You Blow Dry A Choppy Bob?

'The best way to blow dry a choppy bob is to firstly distribute heat protection throughout the hair, then a soft hold mouse,' suggests Sotiriou. 'Again, use a hairdryer and your hands until it is almost dry. Next, use a round brush to smooth out ends, flicking them in different directions. As a finishing touch blow dry the front section to your preferred side or middle. Alternatively curl the longest layers around a heatless curler to add waves, softness, and shine. Rub a pea size amount of serum in the palm of your hands, and smooth it through the tips of the hair to finish.'

Looking for something specific like volume or rough, rockstar texture? Adapt your tools and technique slightly to give a smoother or grittier finish. 'For a bit of volume you can blow-dry with a round brush to give height at the roots, or you can blow-dry smoother and flatter using a flat brush,' says Grimshaw. 'If you're looking for texture you can rough dry it until it's about 70% dry and then let your natural texture do the rest of the hard work!'

The Best Choppy Bob Inspiration

Long Choppy Bob

This textured long bob brushes against your shoulders (rather than the traditional chin-grazing crop), making it perfect for anyone who isn't quite ready to brave the chop.

Short Choppy Bob

A snippy chin-length bob will always feel classic. Look at classic French bobs for length inspiration and ask for a slightly chopper finish throughout for a super textured look.

Curly Choppy Bob

Curls, coils and waves should all consider partaking in this bob trend; your natural movement will make for an effortless everyday styling. Diffusers at the ready.

Wavy Choppy Bob

If your hair veers naturally straight, use a curling iron to add some kinks and waves to boost texture. Lots of layers are essential here.

Choppy Bob With Fringe

Considering a fringe and a bob? The added snippiness of this cut will ensure that you're not left with a style that's too graphic and blunt.

Choppy Bob With Curtain Bangs

Curtain bangs are all the rage this year, so consider asking for one alongside any textured, choppy bob. It will a natural face-framing effect to your style.

Copper Choppy Bob

If you're looking for auburn hair inspiration, look no further than Sadie Sink's stylist retro crop. Somewhere between a wolf cut and a bob, this chic style is the ultimate cool girl cut.

Nineties Choppy Bob

Hailey Bieber's nineties supermodel power bob is the ultimate timeless haircut. Think soft, fluffy layers and a healthy gloss to finish.


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