From Nigella’s must-have vinegar to spaghetti dust: The middle-class condiments you need in your cupboard
Once, a manky bottle of ketchup and a half-used jar of mustard were staples on British dinner tables. Not anymore – at least in food-savvy households. These old faithfuls are being replaced by fiery, umami-laden condiments that add punch and extraordinary flavour to the simplest dishes.
Holly Thomson of specialty retailer Sous Chef confirms the condiment craze: “We’ve seen a really big surge in sales recently, with some of our top sellers up 59 per cent year-on-year.”
Sales of chilli oils, hot sauces, mayonnaise and vinegars from around the world are booming. “They can be added to anything, whether it’s a dinner party meal or a fifteen-minute fridge forage,” says Natalie Lee-Joe from online retailer Delli. “We’re all so time-poor these days that these are a great cheat to make any meal more delicious and special.”
Affordability also underpins the trend, says Emilie Wolfman, innovations manager at Waitrose. “They provide an accessible way to tap into new cuisines and try artisanal, premium ingredients without the price tag.”
So, what are you drizzling, dolloping, and dipping? If your fridge door isn’t groaning under the weight of at least some of the following, it’s time for a condiment overhaul.
Chilli oil
You already have chilli oil – of course you do – but it’s time to upgrade to versions packed with extra “bits”, which is where the real flavour hides, says Ed Smith, chef and author of Good Eggs (Quadrille, £22). White Mausu’s Peanut Rayu has a cult following, while Yep Kitchen’s garlic and ground beef version is “flying out the door,” says Thomson. Also look for oils with black soya beans – such as Poon’s Extraordinary Chilli Oil – pink peppercorns, or cashews. Smith drizzles them over everything from eggs and rice to cheese on toast.
Sanbaizu vinegar
Nigella Lawson raves about this fermented vinegar infused with kombu (kelp), bonito fish flakes, mirin and mushrooms. “It’s slightly sweet, with a complex savoury mellowness that instantly makes this do-nothing offering taste as if long-trained sushi chefs had prepared it,” she wrote recently. She favours the Wasabi Company brand, sprinkling it over smoked salmon, but it’s equally delicious splashed into stir-fries, drizzled on steamed veg, or for dipping seafood.
Spaghetti Dust
Be quick if you want to get your hands on this handy blend of garlic, onion and chilli. It’s such a popular no-effort flavour bomb that supplies recently ran out, although fans will be relieved to know it’s back in stock. Shake the deeply tasty “dust” into traditional Italian sauces or overcooked vegetables for an instant flavour blast or stir through cooked pasta with some good extra virgin olive oil.
Raw kimchi fermented hot sauce
If you just can’t scratch that kimchi itch, copy Nigella and keep a bottle of this funky sauce to hand – it not only adds heat and flavour to food, but supports gut health too. “I love its fierce tang, and like that my microbiome benefits from it, too,” Nigella recently told Instagram followers. Splash it in and over “pretty much everything” just as you would Tabasco, she suggests, including Bloody Marys.
Yuzu-kosho
This fermented condiment made from yuzu zest, chillies and salt is a staple in Japan but still under-the-radar in the UK – for now. “It’s pungent, salty and extremely aromatic,” says Tim Anderson, chef and author of Hokkaido (Quadrille, £28). “A little dab is enough to lift a bowl of noodles or a hotpot, which is how it is often used in Japan.” You can also stir it through mayo to make a dip, over chicken pre-roasting or even pair it with chocolate. “A tiny bit stirred into hot cocoa gives it a wonderful warmth.”
Confit garlic
Chefs have long loved the deep savoury flavour and sticky sweetness of garlic slowly simmered in oil, and now ready-cooked cloves come in jars. Mellow and rich, they’re worlds apart from raw garlic. “I am a huge fan of confit garlic,” says social media chef Poppy O’Toole. “It should be used by everyone.” Squish onto toast or pizza, stuff into sandwiches, toss into pasta or salad, or crush and stir into yoghurt for extra richness and flavour. O’Toole makes her own but the time-pressed can pick up a jar in the supermarket.
Kewpie mayonnaise
Extra velvety, rich, and far more luscious than standard mayonnaise thanks to its higher proportion of egg yolks, this Japanese version has legions of devoted fans. For the best flavour, be sure to buy the authentic imported variety, which contains MSG, says Smith. “The proper version is rich, tangy yet savoury, and superior as a sandwich condiment or in egg or tuna salad,” he says. It also adds incredible depth to dips, dressings, and of course, for dipping fries.
Za’atar
Typically made of oregano, thyme, sesame seeds, sumac and salt, this fragrant blend has long been a staple in Middle Eastern kitchens. “Growing up in Beirut, a dish of za’atar mixed with olive oil was a permanent fixture on every breakfast table,” says food writer Angela Zaher. “I’m staggered to see how mainstream this fresh, herby spice blend has become in the UK.” A sprinkle adds complexity and soft crunch to eggs, roasted vegetables, and even sweet dishes like ice cream, or sprinkled over cookies before baking. “Try it once and you’ll never go back to sea salt,” Zaher says.
Tonkatsu sauce
Tonkatsu sauce is like a hipper, Japanese version of HP – “much sweeter, smoother, and richer with the flavour of dried and stewed fruits,” says Anderson. It’s a staple served with crispy tonkatsu (breaded and deep-fried pork cutlet) but also a great finisher for anything rich and meaty. “A couple of spoonfuls can round out a stew, a Bolognese, or just a bowl of baked beans beautifully,” he says. It’s also superb in or alongside cheese toasties and breakfast baps, adding a bold, tangy-sweet kick.
Hot honey
Unless you’ve been asleep for some time, you’ll know that honey spiked with chilli is a fiery-sweet sensation sweeping the UK right now. “It’s been so great to see such a small, quaint product find such demand,” says Lee-Joe. The varieties keep expanding, with new twists like harissa, gochujang, and sriracha hot honeys now available – with ’nduja honey on the horizon, too. “It’s a bold flavour combination that’s here to stay,” she says. Hot honey is exceptionally moreish drizzled over savoury/salty foods like pizza, fried chicken and cheese toasties.
