The sleeper train is back – here are eight of the most romantic journeys
Snuggling between crisp clean sheets, reading by the glow of your berth light as steel wheel swishes on steel rail beneath you – for over a century, the sleeper train has been the most romantic way to cross Europe. Once commonplace, they’ve struggled in the shadow of budget airlines since the 1990s. Their nadir came in 2016, when the largest operator, Deutsche Bahn (German railways), pulled the plug on its City Night Line sleeper network, claiming it was impossible to make sleeper trains work commercially.
However, a much smaller operator stepped in and took a huge risk: ÖBB (Österreichische Bundesbahnen, Austrian railways) bought DB’s sleeping-cars and took over many of its routes, rebranding them and its own sleeper routes Nightjet. The gamble paid off. ÖBB is now the largest sleeper operator in Europe and the Nightjet network is in the black. As climate-conscious travellers increasingly seek a time-effective alternative to flying, ÖBB has cautiously expanded its sleeper routes, reinstating sleepers from Vienna to Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris and Berlin and from Amsterdam to Zurich. They often leave fully booked.
ÖBB is now investing in new trains and in December 2023 the first of 33 brand-new Nightjets entered service from Hamburg to Vienna, Munich and Innsbruck. These smart new sleeper trains feature a toilet and shower in all one- and two-bed sleepers, traditional four-berth couchettes for families and friends, and innovative individual ‘mini cabins’ reminiscent of Japanese capsule hotels for those who want a bed and privacy, on a budget.
ÖBB is not the only operator reinstating sleepers. France has restored overnight trains from Paris to Nice and Lourdes. Italy is ordering new sleeper trains. Start-up train operator European Sleeper introduced a new overnight train from Brussels and Amsterdam to Berlin in May 2023 and extended it to Prague in March this year.
A Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper has also been procured by the Swedish government to provide a time-effective rail link between Germany and the home of Flygskam (‘flight shame’), later extended to and from Berlin. I rode the inaugural departure in September 2022, which was not without its teething problems – rolling stock to expand sleeper services is scarce and the refurbished sleeping cars weren’t ready in time. But the couchettes were comfortable, my travel companion and I chatted over wine until midnight, slept well and woke to sunlit Swedish countryside before rolling into the Swedish capital bang on time. It reminded me why I love sleepers and why I’m glad they’re here to stay. A far more enjoyable experience than a flight with a fraction of the emissions, and by leaving in the evening and arriving next morning they take up fewer daytime hours than flying. And bunk beds on a train, what’s not to like?
Here are eight of the best overnight lines – two in Britain and six beyond.
1. Fall asleep in London, wake up in Cornwall
Imagine your favourite Cornish B&B, on wheels. Leaving Paddington station before midnight daily except Saturdays, the Night Riviera has cosy one- and two-bed rooms, a convivial lounge car and great staff. Wake to Truro cathedral and St Michael’s Mount before pulling into sunny Penzance.
The details: From £125.40 for a single room, £114.90 per person for a twin (gwr.com). Plan the perfect holiday in Cornwall with our guide.
2. Fall asleep in London, wake up in the West Highlands
The Caledonian Sleeper leaves London Euston at 21:00 Monday-Friday and 21:15 on Sundays for Fort William, at the foot of Ben Nevis. Enjoy haggis, neeps and tatties in the lounge as you leave the Big Smoke, then wake to gnarled oak trees, bubbling burns and deer bounding away from the train. Caledonian Double rooms even boast a double bed, toilet and shower.
The details: From £140 for a single room, £170 for a twin (sleeper.scot). Plan the perfect holiday in Scotland with our guide.
3. Fall asleep in Paris, wake up in Nice (or Cannes)
Today’s incarnation of the fabled Train Bleu leaves Paris Austerlitz at 20:08, with first-class four-berth couchettes and second-class six-berth couchettes. Wake to rocky headlands, yacht-filled bays and millionaires’ villas as the train snakes along the Cote d’Azur to reach Cannes at 08:57, Nice at 09:25.
The details: From €29 (£25) in a second-class couchette, €69 (£60) in a first-class couchette (sncf-connect.com). Plan the perfect trip to Nice with our guide.
4. Fall asleep in Paris, wake up in Salzburg
Take the 14:31 Eurostar from London to Paris Nord and stroll to the Gare de l’Est. A Nightjet sleeper leaves Paris Est at 19:12 on Tuesdays, Thursdays & Saturdays arriving in Salzburg at 07:26, with four- and six-berth couchettes and one-, two-, and three-bed sleepers, some with shower and loo. It’s expected to become daily in October this year, just as well as it often leaves fully booked.
The details: Eurostar from £52 one-way (eurostar.com). Nightjet from €59.90 (£52) with couchette, or €159.90 (£139) in a single sleeper, breakfast included (oebb.at). Plan the perfect trip to Salzburg with our guide.
5. Fall asleep in Milan, wake up in Sicily
Western Europe’s longest sleeper ride, the InterCity Notte to Sicily leaves the magnificent Milan Centrale station at 20:10 every night, with sleeping-cars and couchettes for Palermo, Catania and Syracuse, arriving the following afternoon. The train is shunted onto a ferry to cross the Straits of Messina to Sicily, a unique experience.
The details: From €39.90 (£35) in a four-berth couchette or €89.90 (£78) in a single-bed sleeper (trenitalia.com). Plan the perfect trip to Sicily with our guide.
6. Fall asleep in Brussels, wake up in Vienna
Leave London on the 13:01 Eurostar to Brussels, arriving at 16:06. A Nightjet sleeper leaves Brussels at 19:07 on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, arriving Vienna at 10:13, with four- and six-berth couchettes and one-, two- & three-bed sleepers, some with a shower and loo.
The details: Eurostar from £52 one-way (eurostar.com). Nightjet from €59.90 (£51.50) with couchette or €159.90 (£138) in a single sleeper, breakfast included (oebb.at). Plan the perfect trip to Vienna with our guide.
7. Fall asleep in Brussels, wake up in Prague
New train operator European Sleeper now offers an overnight train from Brussels to Prague, with an easy connection from London by Eurostar. Leave London on the 13:01 Eurostar to Brussels, arriving at 16:06. The European Sleeper leaves Brussels at 19:22 on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, arriving Prague at 10:56 after a scenic run along the Elbe river valley south of Dresden. The train has four- and six-berth couchettes and one-, two- & three-bed sleepers. It returns from Prague to Brussels at 18:04 on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays.
The details: Eurostar from £52 one-way (eurostar.com). European Sleeper from €79 (£68) with couchette or €159 (£137) in a single-bed sleeper, breakfast included (europeansleeper.eu). Plan the perfect trip to Prague with our guide.
8. Fall asleep in Berlin, wake up in Stockholm
The SJ EuroNight train leaves Berlin Gesundbrunnen at 18:37 daily, arriving at Stockholm Central at 09:57 the next morning. It has four- and six-berth couchettes and one- and two-bed sleepers, some with a shower and loo. In Stockholm, the amazing Vasa Museum (www.vasamuseet.se) is worth the journey on its own.
The details: From €44.90 (£39) in a six-berth couchette, €69.90 (£61) in a four-berth (sj.se).
This article was first published in September 2022, and has been revised and updated.
