What Is A 'Morning Shed' Routine, And Does It Actually Work?
“The uglier you go to bed, the prettier you wake up” is the mantra of countless “morning shed” videos on social media. Everyone loves a good before-and-after beauty video, and these videos take that transformation to the extreme.
Creators begin the videos by showing off their bedtime looks — large patches plastered across their faces, chin straps stretched around their heads and hair piled high into heatless curlers. It’s like they’ve just stepped off the set of a sci-fi movie. But come morning, they “shed” these beauty products to reveal an effortlessly gorgeous “I woke up like this” style.
“It’s almost like the creators have this costume on and they’re shedding the costume to reveal what’s underneath,” said Dr. Angela Casey, an Ohio-based board-certified dermatologist. These videos are “going to cause you to pause as you’re scrolling and say, ‘OK, let me see what this is about.’”
While these videos are undoubtedly addictive, is there any actual benefit to wearing half of Ulta to bed? Or could those jumping on the morning shed trend actually sabotage their beauty goals?
We spoke to dermatologists and hair care specialists to discover which morning shed items should actually accompany you to bed. We also spoke to a sleep physician about how actually to boost your beauty during your sleeping hours.
Here’s what experts think about the staples of most “morning shed” routines.
Face Masks and Pimple Patches
Many “morning shed” videos begin with the creator slowly peeling off a sheet mask and removing their pimple patches to reveal glowing, dewy skin.
The dermatologists we spoke to say pimple patches promote healing and reduce inflammation by absorbing excess moisture and providing an added layer of protection while you sleep. However, they urge readers to think before wearing sheet masks to bed, especially if they are only intended to be used for a short period of time, rather than overnight.
“Many [skin care] products have ingredients that are in concentrations that are designed to be what we call in dermatology a short-contact duration,” Casey said.
While your favorite sheet mask may work wonders to plump and brighten your skin after 10-20 minutes of use, wearing this same mask overnight could backfire.
“Many of these masks contain active ingredients that may be too harsh on the skin when applied for an extended amount of time, leading to skin dryness, irritation, redness and eczema if left on overnight,” said Dr. Helen He, a New York-based dermatologist and assistant professor in the Kimberly and Eric J. Waldman Department of Dermatology at Mount Sinai.
The derms recommend following the manufacturer’s guidelines when using masks, patches or any other skincare product. And while they generally approve of face masks and pimple patches, it’s important to remember that not all skin care solutions are suitable for all skin types. A product that might give your favorite influencer glowing skin could give you a breakout.
“For patients with sensitive skin, face masks can induce breakouts of acne, eczema, rosacea, peeling, dryness and more, highlighting the importance of using the products that are appropriate for your specific skin type,” He said.
Wrinkle Patches
Wrinkles form by repeatedly moving your face. Therefore, if you can prevent your face from moving, you can prevent wrinkles from forming, right? Not exactly.
While manufacturers of wrinkle patches — which can be made of silicone, medical tape or even paper with an adhesive backing — claim their products work to prevent wrinkles by holding the skin taut during the night, the dermatologists we spoke to say these beauty items fail to address the many other factors that lead to wrinkle formation.
“Mechanistically, [wrinkle patches] are not inducing collagen production, decreasing inflammation, removing oxidative damage or modulating any of the underlying processes that we know to be responsible for wrinkles,” He said.
In fact,wrinkle patches could potentially work against your skin care goals.
“Some of the adhesive options like paper tape can also strip away the skin’s natural protective barrier, leading to increased dryness, irritation, and sensitivity,” He added.
Casey also notes that patients could potentially develop contact dermatitis from the adhesives in these patches.
If you do decide to try wrinkle patches out for yourself, Casey warns that you should use caution when combining patches with your other skin care products. The occlusion from the patch could cause increased skin sensitivity when used with certain active ingredients, such as retinoids or exfoliating acids.
Lip and Eyebrow Stains
Who wouldn’t want to wake up with perfectly lined lips and impeccably filled-in brows? Lip and eyebrow stains deliver a subtle no-makeup look, but dermatologists recommend saving this particular step of your beauty routine for the morning.
“There’s no value in doing [lip and brow stains] overnight,” said Dr. Zakia Rahman, a California-based dermatologist and clinical professor of dermatology at Stanford Medicine. “It’s not like the longer you have contact with it, the longer the effects will be in the morning.”
In fact, when it comes to lip and eyebrow stains, the colors may look more intense when you wake up in the morning than when you go to bed.
“Certain brands deposit more pigment over time (i.e., the longer they are left on, the deeper the color), therefore keeping them on for prolonged periods could result in an unpredictable result,” Casey said. “Pigment may migrate to surrounding skin when these are left on for hours.”
Mouth Tape
Thanks to social media and James Nestor’s 2020 book, “Breath,”mouth taping has recently seen a rise in popularity. It involves using medical tape or special patches to ensure the mouth stays closed during sleep, and proponents claim it can reduce snoring, promote dental health and even create a snatched jawline.
Although there are a number of benefits to breathing throughyour nose rather than through your mouth, a sleep expert cautions against mouth taping while you sleep.
“If you have any kind of respiratory disturbances while you sleep at night — if you have nasal congestion [or] sleep apnea — there’s actually concern that it could be dangerous if you tape your mouth closed at night,” saidDr. Jennifer L. Martin, a professor-in-residence at the David Geffen School of Medicine at University of California, Los Angeles and spokesperson for the American Academy of Sleep Medicine.
Additionally, Casey also warns that, just like with wrinkle patches, the adhesives from mouth taping could cause contact dermatitis — especially with repeated use.
Chin Straps
By applying compression to the sides of the face, some claim thatchin straps can slim your jawline, lift your face and reduce skin sagging and the appearance of a double chin.
But unless you’ve recently had a surgical procedure on your face, dermatologists say there’s really no need to add this device to your bedtime routine.
“[Chin straps] are usually used after someone has had a procedure (like a neck lift or chin lift) because there’s inflammation,” Rahman explained. The purpose of the chin strap is to ensure the surgical area remains closed in order to promote better healing.
He notes that while some may see temporary benefits, chin straps won’t do much to address long-term aging concerns like skin sagging.
Another advertised use for chin straps is for the treatment ofsleep apnea, but this is only one part of the larger picture.
“In clinical practice, we don’t use a chin strap to treat sleep apnea [alone],” Martin said. “We use a chin strap to help someone use a CPAP machine effectively.”
Heatless Curlers
While other blast-from-the-past beauty items like wrinkle patches get a thumbs down from most dermatologists, hair care experts are big fans of this beauty throwback and its ability to create effortless style without heat damage.
“Heatless curlers are nothing new — they’re a reinvention of old Hollywood techniques,” said Nicky Clarke, a hairstylist who was honored with the Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire in 2008 for his contributions to the British hairdressing industry.
Raven Hurtado, a stylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago, recommends making sure your hair is damp to “almost dry” when putting your hair into heatless curlers to create long-lasting curls. When the hair is too dry, the curls may be quick to fall out; too wet, and your hair may not dry completely and will be more fragile and prone to breakage, according to Hurtado.
When it comes to selecting your heatless curlers, Hurtado said size matters. “Think about the curl you want to achieve. … You can look for a set that comes in different sizes and clips or scrunchies to help section [your hair],” she said.
For an added boost, Hurtado also recommends looking for heatless curlers made of satin or silk, which are soft and gentle on hair.
Satin Bonnets
Women of color have long since used silk bonnets to protect their hair at night. But according to our hair care experts, these bonnets can benefit any hair type.
“[Silk bonnets] are very beneficial for protecting long hair, maintaining volume in fine hair, and preserving blowouts for those with frizzy or curly hair,” Clarke said.
Hurtado recommends wearing your hair in a protective style, like braids, under the bonnet. She also recommends waiting until your hair is dry before donning a silk bonnet for the night, as mold or bacteria can grow in wet hair.
“To maximize the use of a silk bonnet, look at the sizing, making sure to get one that fits,” Hurtado said. “You don’t want it too loose or too tight, but just comfortable enough to wear for a couple of hours or a whole night as you sleep.”
The morning shed’s potential impact on your sleep
As someone who can’t even sleep wearing stud earrings, a “morning shed” won’t be in my own routine anytime soon. But it’s harder to say whether the average sleeper will find these products troublesome.
On the one hand, Martin points out that this trend could potentially interfere with the wearer’s ability to get a good night’s sleep. Not only are some of the items physically uncomfortable to fall (and stay) asleep in, but Martin explains that the time-consuming practice of putting on multiple beauty items before going to sleep may prevent some from going to bed at a reasonable hour.
“[For patients with insomnia] a big, complicated bedtime routine and a complicated morning routine actually can make their insomnia problems worse,” Martin said.
However, Martin isn’t ready to completely swear off the “morning shed.”
“It’s good and healthy to have a routine at the end of the day before you get into bed. It sets the stage for a good night of sleep,” Martin said. “Our brain likes to make shortcuts. So when we do things in a certain order over and over and over again, our brain starts to expect the next step.”
Martin recommends incorporating relaxing activities to wind down at the end of your day. And if a beauty or skin care routine helps you relax, that brings its own benefits.
