Missoni Fall 2025: Blast From the Past
In tricky times for high-end fashion, brands are going back to what they do best, dusting off the classics, updating them for a new generation and crossing their fingers that customers prioritize quality over quantity.
Nowhere is that more true that at Missoni, one of many big-name European brands that has recently ejected its creative director and started down a more commercial path.
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Last October, Missoni’s chief executive officer Livio Proli announced — in the same breath — the long-mooted departure of Filippo Grazioli; the appointment of company veteran Alberto Caliri as his successor, and a shift in strategy.
“We are thinking of one lifestyle collection that covers menswear, womenswear and home, and not three single lines,” said Proli, adding that Caliri could bring a sense of consistency back to the brand. And that’s just what Caliri delivered.
The collection felt like one big reset. Caliri drew on his memories of how the company’s late founders, Tai and Rosita Missoni, dressed — he in multicolored cardigan jackets with shawl collars, and she in finer-gauge patterned knits, turtlenecks and long, skinny scarves.
Caliri added that while he may have been inspired by the past, he was looking dress younger men and women, and going for a “dynamic, modern, daywear” look.
To wit, he layered nubby knits and jackets over short patterned skirts and transformed oversize, tweedy cardigans and chunky zigzag turtlenecks into minidresses. He teamed those looks with giant scarves, some with a magnified check, mittens and skinny, stripey turtlenecks worn as base layers.
Jackets had heft. Some were even padded, while others were covered in lumberjack checks, tangles of skinny stripes, or windowpane squares with a built-in scarves. Autumnal colors — brown, burgundy, orange and red — and dizzy patterns spilled onto the knitted collars of leather jackets, cardigan jackets and tailored suits.
In a further effort to get down with the kids, and despite the chilly concrete show venue, Caliri kept models’ legs bare and finished off the looks with flats — strappy sandals, chunky boots and slingbacks — for a generation on the move.
Launch Gallery: Missoni Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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