From McQueen to Cobain: How Pop Icons Turned the Classic Cardigan Into a Perpetual Menswear Must-Have
In 1993, Nirvana was my favorite band (and still is). Kurt Cobain was more than a rock star for the disillusioned youth of the time; he was our anti-hero, our counterculture frontman. Coming off the back of the disingenuous glam of ’80s hair metal, his look was a revelation: ripped jeans, thrifted tees, and oval white shades. And then, there was the cardigan sweater—a now-iconic staple of Kurt’s style. Intrigued, I picked up an aqua-green cardigan at a local shop and layered it with one of my many Nirvana tees. I wasn’t Kurt, but in that moment, it felt close enough. Eventually, I grew into my own identity, but that cardigan was more than just a piece of clothing—it was a connection to something authentic.
Having spent much of my career in menswear, I’ve seen how deeply music and style intertwine—and how both are cyclical. Cobain arrived at just the right time, showing a generation that cardigans could be rock ‘n’ roll and shaking off their stuffy associations. But it wasn’t just about the music. Cardigans have an inherent sincerity, coolness, and heritage that makes them a staple, continually reinvented by our culture, luxury brands, and designers alike.
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They’ve drifted in and out of the spotlight—whether Steve McQueen making a shawl collar cardigan effortlessly cool, Paul Newman in his Shetland variety, or Mr. Rogers in a classic Merino. And who could forget The Dude’s Cowichan cardigan in The Big Lebowski– the chunky, ironically hip knit that was a defining piece of his laid-back look? Brands like Ralph Lauren and Todd Snyder release their takes on the Cowichan frequently, celebrating its distinct motif while simultaneously reaffirming its timeless appeal.
More recently, guys like Harry Styles and his JW Anderson patchwork cardigan became a viral look, David Beckham consistently sports elegant shawl versions, Michael B. Jordan is a fan of bright, textured iterations, and Pharrell rocked a vintage Comme des Garçons number that Kurt would have approved of. Stylish men have been donning the knit for quite some time, but they feel more ubiquitous and current than ever. Cardigans are having a moment, but the truth is—did they ever really go out of style?
Cardigans 101
Many menswear staples have roots in military history, and the cardigan is no exception with its unique origin story. The buttoned knit emerged in the mid-19th century and was named after James Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, who led the Charge of the Light Brigade at the Battle of Balaclava during the Crimean War. His soldiers wore knitted wool waistcoats under their uniforms for warmth, and this functional garment eventually evolved into what we now know as the cardigan.
By the early 20th century, the cardigan had emerged as a more relaxed alternative to the waistcoat, giving discerning gentlemen a stylish yet everyday wearable option. It gained traction in the 1950s Ivy League scene, becoming synonymous with preppy fashion—a seemingly perpetually trending aesthetic. From ’60s rock groups to movie stars to pipe-smoking professors, the cardigan steadily found its way into many corners of society. Today, it’s embraced by countless subcultures and fashionable guys. The cardigan is a true military-to-lifestyle love story with many personalities and iterations along the way.
The Cardigan’s Resurgence
The cardigan has cemented itself as a menswear staple—ever present as a turtleneck, crewneck, or V-neck sweater. And while knitwear trends have subtle ebbs and flows (the sweater vest, for example), the cardigan is enjoying a renaissance. Mustafa Kacar, menswear connoisseur and creative (@mustafakacar), notes, “Many factors have contributed to the cardigan’s resurgence. As fashion trends lean toward more relaxed, comfortable styles, cardigans offer a polished alternative to structured pieces like blazers. The variety is endless, allowing everyone to find one that suits their unique style, and they’ve completely shed their old-fashioned reputation.”
A cardigan still carries the weight of its history while being reimagined today and appeals to all types of men for various occasions. Linda Wright, Creative Director of Crimson Cashmere, Paris, adds, “A classic cardigan appeals to many men because of its timeless versatility. Anyone can incorporate it into their wardrobe, making it a truly iconic piece.” And let’s not forget—they’re undeniably cozy. “Put one on, and you immediately feel at home in that beautifully knitted garment. It carries history, and there’s something comforting about clothing that has stood the test of time.”
Cardigans Feel Cool Now
However, with the rise in popularity came the inevitable sway to oversaturation. Just like seeing leather biker jackets on guys where it felt way too try-hard, we saw celebs styled in cardigans that did them no favors. Just because a garment is popular doesn’t mean everyone can, nor should, wear it. These overly designed and flashy cardigans often wore the celebrities, not the other way around. The clothes may make the man, but the man also must make the clothes; it’s symbiotic.
Still, cardigans feel undeniably en vogue. Wright observes, “The coolness of a cardigan is that it suits all ages and every gender and is also what makes it modern. It gives the wearer an attitude without them even realizing it—that feeling of knowing you’re well-dressed and using it to match the mood for any situation.” Kacar adds, “A cardigan is cool to me because it’s the chameleon of knitwear. It’s a fantastic staple that can adapt to almost any setting—within reason, of course. Whether you’re JFK or John Mayer, one thing’s for sure: cardigans are undeniably cool.”
The Cardigan’s Stylistic Differences
What separates a cardigan from a classic Merino crew neck or V-neck? “The basic cardigan consists of three key details that have solidified it as a classic: six buttons, two patch pockets, and a V-neck,” says Wright. Stylistically, the cardigan is the unassuming member of the knitwear family—taking the spotlight while simultaneously playing a supporting role. As Dan Snyder, designer and founder of Brooklyn-based clothing brand Corridor, notes, “The cardigan is always a complement, never the whole thing. It requires an underlayer—even a simple t-shirt—making it a layering piece that adds dimension to any outfit.”
Its physical shape also makes it unique. Snyder adds, “The cardigan’s shape allows for more interesting patterns because it has a placket, neck drop, and trim to help balance even wild designs. While a crewneck can stand alone as the focal point of an outfit, the cardigan is just one piece of the look.”
Like V-necks and crewnecks, however, the sheer variety of textures and fabrics allows for many variations. Kacar explains: “One key attribute that makes cardigans unique is their wide range. You’ve got lightweight, thin Merino cardigans perfect for layering under a blazer to textured options like mohair, which add character and warmth to casual outfits. Then there are heavy-knit or shawl collar cardigans that can stand as statement pieces, combining style and functionality for cooler weather.”
Cardigans are Versatile
Cardigans are incredibly versatile. Whether dressing them up or down, they pair as effortlessly with light-wash selvage denim and a T-shirt as with an oxford shirt, trad tie, and wool flannel trousers. Keep one on hand for an unexpected chill—it suits nearly any occasion. Wright notes, “They work for dressier or casual looks, day or night. Wear it with a beautiful cotton poplin shirt, dress pants, and a blazer, or try it with a polo and jeans. Even a white T-shirt paired with a beautifully colored cardigan is a killer combo.”
Kacar highlights the cardigan’s versatility through outfit combinations: “A light merino wool cardigan layered over a button-down (with or without a tie) and paired with tailored trousers creates a polished look. I love the vibe of a vintage cropped cardigan with collar-pinned button-down and high-waisted trousers. On the casual side, pairing a fuzzy alpaca cardigan with a tee and jeans creates a relaxed, stylish outfit—ideal for weekends.”
However, be cautious of pushing the cardigan too far into comfort culture; those two worlds don’t always complement each other. As Wright warns, avoid wearing it with the “ever-so-in-fashion sweatpants or modern gym wear that’s currently in store windows everywhere.”
Cardigans Adapt
While blazers, the most formal option, and chore coats, now ubiquitous in smart-casual wardrobes, remain standards, the cardigan has quietly emerged as a foundational outerwear garment that adds tailored refinement. As Snyder puts it, “It has to do with the deformalization of men’s wardrobes. Twenty years ago, blazers were everywhere—then, chore coats took over. Now, cardigans are the new sports coat or layering piece. In the ’70s and ’80s, blazers featured beautiful checks and patterns, and today, the cardigan is their modern-day replacement.”
The cardigan has evolved from a casual knit to a garment that adds panache and understated sophistication. Kacar states, “As fashion trends lean toward more relaxed and comfortable styles, cardigans have become a polished alternative to more structured pieces like blazers. They’re not quite a jacket but far from a boring sweater—they strike the perfect balance.” The cardigan can work for work. “A decade ago, a suit or at least a blazer with a button-down was the go-to for meetings, but now, a shawl cardigan with a button-down and chinos gives you that polished look without sacrificing formality.”
The cardigan’s adaptability also comes from its range of weights, allowing it to function like various outerwear. Snyder adds, “Depending on its weight, a cardigan can act as a blazer, chore coat, wool coat, or even a thin layering piece, all while maintaining a casual feel.” Cardigans also act as a canvas for texture and prints. Fuzzy mohair and alpaca, geometric patterns and patchwork, or brighter colors can reflect your personality, so don’t hesitate to experiment. And if it doesn’t resonate, don’t fret – the cardigan isn’t going anywhere.
Cardigans Evolve
Many brands have reimagined the cardigan, putting their spin on the timeless garment. Take, for example, the hip NYC clothing label Corridor. Their instantly recognizable intarsia-knit cardigans featuring eye-catching designs like florals or stars have become favorites since the brand’s inception. On the West Coast, cashmere connoisseurs The Elder Statesman have blended the elegance of smoking jackets with luxurious cashmere cardigans in color blocking and ombré. These indulgent pieces have become a go-to for the quiet luxury set. Meanwhile, Paris-based Crimson Cashmere offers sumptuous, understated cashmere cardigans in solid colorways—refined luxury for those in the know.
Brands like Loewe, JW Anderson, and Dries Van Noten have also put their unique spins on the beloved knit. Wright observes, “Whether low fashion or high fashion, all brands are on this train right now—from Dior on Avenue Montaigne in Paris to James Perse in California.”
Cardigans on the Runway
It’s not just clothing brands—cardigans have become a key garment interpreted by designers on runways. This past season, heavyweights like Prada, Hermès, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, and Gucci all showcased multiple iterations of the knit. While cardigans have often been a part of runway collections to some extent, they are only becoming more prevalent.
This resurgence may also be associated with the “eclectic grandpa” aesthetic, which combines vintage and nostalgic elements in response to fast-changing trends – though, ironically, “grandpa-core” is a trend in itself. The style includes classic garments like tweed blazers, loafers, high-waisted trousers, and, of course, cardigans. The theme has gained traction among influencers, becoming popular on TikTok and Twitter. Some see it as a shift towards more sustainable clothing choices, while others view it as cultivating personal style through garments that imbue nostalgia. Whatever the case, no trend can detract from the cardigan’s core appeal.
Cardigans Are Timeless
Talented, visionary folks will continue to innovate and leave their unique mark on the cardigan, and when done with respect to its character, these pieces will stand the test of time. Menswear is cyclical to some degree, and while certain cardigans may fall victim to the trend cycle, that’s often more about the brand than the garment itself. Wright states, “Cardigans are the Holy Grail for being exactly that: Timeless. Wear them with the finicky trends that will be an embarrassment tomorrow, but the redeeming factor is we had our cardie game going steadfast.”
If any style or music resonated and hit a deeper note in our history, it will, at some point, come back. Cobain paid little attention to fleeting trends. He operated on a deeper level, reinventing the cardigan into an iconic garment—not because he was trying to be something else, but because of who he was. While cardigans are very current today, they have always been and will continue to be a staple. What makes them so enduring is their innate authenticity and ability to adapt and evolve, constantly finding their way back into our wardrobes. Whether pairing them with dress boots or Converse sneakers, wear one now, wear one forever, and keep a few in your rotation. Cardigans are perpetually cool.
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