Marni Spring 2025: Big Suits and Flowers in a Garden of Delight
Marni’s Francesco Risso has been stripping back the avalanche of outside stimuli to focus on “chasing beauty,” as he said during a preview with WWD.
The Marni showroom in Viale Umbria with its raw walls, where Risso staged the spring show, contributed to the focus on the clothes, as the only potential distractions were the three pianos, played live by the designer’s musician friend Dev Hynes, who composed the soundtrack; Sharleen Chidiac, and Adam Tendler. The models wove their way through the chairs that peppered the space, without a defined path.
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In a crescendo in sync with the music, the coed lineup started with the tightest of pants and knits, gradually swelling into oversize boxy jackets with large, structured shoulders and ballooning skirts with myriad feather-like wisps of fabrics.
While the first looks were monochromatic, the patterns became increasingly rich, from the florals that looked hand-drawn, unfurling on the pouf skirts, to the sparkly, exquisitely embroidered evening dresses, where the rhinestone roses seemed to be blooming in a cascade of cotton garden leaves swaying with the movement. A few looks had pages of literature — and a drawing of Dante Alighieri’s profile — pasted onto jerseys.
Risso said he looked back to the flower dresses so popular in the ’50s, and some of the skirts with ruched hems were reminiscent of the era, but there were also whiffs of the ‘80s — David Byrne’s big suits came to mind. Ah, and the hats. There were some quirky sailor-like styles, but also wondrous creations that would make a splash at any Ascot race.
In the preview, Risso said that he wants “to fill my eyes with beautiful things.” Certainly he succeeded in leaving guests with a sense of pleasure in seeing his artistic tension. Since joining Marni in 2016, Risso has been shaping the brand with his own bold and freewheeling touch, gradually evolving his style. The spring collection felt even more assured and mature.
For more Milan spring 2025 reviews, click here.
Launch Gallery: Marni Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection
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