This Mallorcan agrotourism hotel was the ideal antidote to the chaos of school summer holidays
If the thought of Mallorca during peak holiday season makes you say, "Not a hope in hell," especially with all the recent news about locals protesting mass tourism, I hear you. But when I arrived in the heart of the island right in the middle of the school holidays, not only were there no protestors in sight, but the usual crowds were surprisingly absent as well.
Welcome to agrotourism, a growing travel trend that, as the name suggests, takes place in rural settings—usually on farms or in the countryside. It offers a slower, more peaceful pace of life where you can immerse yourself in nature without sacrificing modern comforts.
I’m staying at Son Sabater, the latest property from Zafiro Hotels, located at the foot of the Sierra de Tramuntana mountains and listed as part of the historical heritage of Sa Pobla, the nearest municipality. Surrounded by 20 hectares of lush oak forests and carob orchards, the main hotel is a restored 16th-century farmhouse and comprises twelve guestrooms and three villas—one of which is my home for three nights—as well as outdoor and indoor pools, a gym, and a restaurant.
Tell me more about the estate...
The farmhouse, with its bottle-green shutters and tapered clay-tiled roof, has been renovated by interior designer Marga Rotger using local Mallorcan stone. Beautiful wooden beams from nearby forests line the ceilings, soft brushed linen delicately drapes from the windows, while a stylish and ornate chandelier draws attention in the entrance. Soft cream sofas and chairs are scattered in communal areas, and a small wooden bar can be found near the restaurant, should you fancy a nightcap.
Our villa was located a stone's throw from the farmhouse, yet felt secluded thanks to a cleverly landscaped garden, where lavender and pampas grass provided privacy. The private terrace was also shaded by vines, offering a welcome escape from the midday heat. The interior didn’t disappoint either. Exposed stone and sloping ceilings gave the villa a cool, lofty feel, while oatmeal soft fabrics complemented the rustic farm theme. In the main bedroom, the emperor-sized bed was perfection, and pleasingly, a hallway separated the living room/second bedroom, so the kids were close by but far enough that you didn’t have to tiptoe around once they fell asleep.
A beautiful outdoor swimming pool is surrounded by striped daybeds that gently sway in the breeze, offering incredible views of lush fields stretching for miles. Should you fancy a workout, there's a small but perfectly equipped gym, while an indoor pool allows you to get your laps in if the weather turns.
And what about the food?
Modern and minimalist, the restaurant is decked out with white linen tablecloths and fresh flowers, while an enormous stone fireplace takes centre stage. The menu features dishes laced with ingredients grown on-site and marries tradition with modern flair. Croquettes with a textured, salty casing give way to a melt-in-your-mouth béchamel and jamón centre. They were so moreish, we couldn’t help but order more. Fresh snapper with beurre blanc sauce was both refreshing and comforting, while the pil pil turbot had a garlicky kick, mopped up with local Sa Pobla potatoes.
If I can tear myself away from the grounds, what else is there to do?
Given the surroundings, it would be remiss not to get your hiking shoes on and take advantage of the hotel's proximity to the stunning Sierra de Tramuntana mountains, which provide access to some of the most spectacular scenery in Mallorca. The helpful staff can recommend guided tours for local trails that allow you to take in the breathtaking views of the Sierra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
If you fancy something more low-key, the charming old town of Pollença is a twenty-minute drive away. Here, you can wander up the 365 Calvari Steps, lined with sweet-smelling cypress trees. At the top, you’re greeted by an old chapel dating back to the 18th century, along with magnificent views of the area. Back on ground level, a charming square provides open spaces for the kids to play while you sip on sangria. The Abco La Botiga pottery shop is also a must visit for budding interior enthusiasts.
The Caves of Campanet are also worth a visit. For less than twenty euros, you can explore a labyrinth of geological formations, with the tour taking around 40 minutes. It’s truly a sight to behold.
Room rates at Son Sabater start from €148 per night (B&B).
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More rural holiday ideas this way..
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