Get a made-to-measure dress like the Duchess of Cambridge

Almost everything worn by the Duchess of Cambridge has been customised in some way, whether it’s a bespoke Alexander McQueen evening gown, created to meet the dress codes and demands of her role as a senior working Royal, or a Zara find which has been tweaked by a tailor for a perfect fit. It’s one of the reasons she always looks so polished.

Take the dress she wore for the Buckingham Palace garden party on Wednesday, which was made for her by the Palace dressmaker. No designer label, just a timeless design, seen for the first time in 2018, and which we’ll likely see again and again over the years.

Garments like this are her ‘uniform’ of sorts - a very nice perk of the job - but it’s not a privilege only available to the super-wealthy. A new generation of independent dressmakers are bringing made-to-measure designs to women who might otherwise shop on the high street. Their creations are the very antithesis of a quick lunchtime fashion fix, yet prices start at a relatively reasonable £180; less than a dress by summer party season favourites like Rixo, Reformation and LK Bennett.

“It’s ‘slow fashion’” says Isabel Spearman, stylist and Stella’s ‘Dress Guru’, who has long been a champion of under-the-radar labels. A focus on custom dresses was a natural evolution for her latest virtual Daily Dress Edit pop-up shop, which runs until Sunday. “You can be much more size inclusive because they can take a hem up, or make in-between sizes,” she says. “Our bodies can change shape after having children, or when we hit the menopause, and you can have a dress that fits you rather than being told, ‘Sorry, madam, we don't have your size.’”

These designers come with a wealth of talent and expertise, too. Take Coco Conran: as the niece of Jasper and granddaughter of the late Sir Terence, she practically has design running through her veins. No wonder, then, that she ended up doing a degree in the very technical art of pattern-cutting, followed by two years working under her uncle’s tutelage, before establishing her own label making dresses to order for around the £200 mark.

Portsmouth-based Megan Crosby brings skills from the world of costume design, where she created garments for actors of all different shapes and sizes: “In the fashion industry you don't always get that experience,” she says. Brighton-based Faith Rowan Leeves’ training was in lingerie:  “I remember my teacher saying, ‘If you can make a bra, you can make anything’,” she says.

For a generation like mine, raised on ready-to-wear in sizes 8, 10, 12 and so forth, this is a game-changer. Take, for example, my friend who is 5ft nothing. Even though she’s a high street friendly size 10, she may not be able to wear a dress with a ruffled hem because she’d lose that ruffle if she were to raise the hemline. A woman 6ft tall would be equally frustrated, because the body of the dress needs to be extended, not the frill - otherwise what’s meant to be a midi falls somewhere around her knees. My personal fashion pet hate? Dresses with a seam around the bust - which usually fail to accommodate anyone over a B-cup, even though the average British woman wears a D-cup.

The result is that the high street fitting room leaves many of us feeling inadequate and demoralised. There is no such thing as ‘normal’, when it comes to women’s bodies, yet we’ve been led to believe that by retailers which rely on this myth in order to make a profit.

The joy of made-to-measure - aside from the fact that it’s sustainable, ethical and supports small British makers - is that it can accommodate our boobs, hips, height and build in all of their unique glory. And it should be celebrated, because catering to diverse body shapes requires real technical skill. A size 18 dress shouldn’t be cut with the same proportions as a size 8 - although that’s routinely seen on the high street.

“We get many requests for shortening,” says Rowan Leeves. “The majority of bespoke orders either involve shortening or adding extra body length for those with a long torso.”

Knowing your measurements is the key to success with made-to-order, although it’s something many younger consumers have never needed to learn. Crosby’s website features videos showing exactly how to measure yourself correctly. Spearman also makes herself available for styling or measuring advice  Even though the pop-up is a virtual one, she is regularly sharing advice over WhatsApp.

The best bit though, is getting a dress that you love so much, you don’t want to wear anything else. “I have had customers come back and order the same dress in five different colours,” says Conran. “It’s such a good feeling.”

Four of the best made-to-measure buys

Striped cotton poplin Rosette dress by Minkie London

£275, Daily Dress Edit

“The detailing is so clever with the double pleated collar and gathering under the shoulder,” says Spearman. “The striped cotton poplin is from Rose and Hubble, a renowned English brand that was established in 1922.” Each dress is made to order in London with a lead time of two weeks.

Malmesbury dress by Made by SJP

£180, Daily Dress Edit.

“Sarah-Jane and I loved the idea of a yellow gingham check and when she found two options we combined them together instead of choosing just the one,” Spearman says. The fabric is sourced from preloved sites and each dress is made by Sarah-Jane at her Wiltshire studio with a lead time of three weeks.

Lila dress by Coco Conran

£235, Daily Dress Edit

The hue of this dress is particularly special, Spearman reveals: “Made in the most beautiful colour that has been part of her Conran family design history for many years, this tone of blue suits everybody.” This dress is made in London with a lead time of one week.

Frankie dress by Faith Rowan Leeves

£198, Daily Dress Edit

This dress was such a hit at Spearman’s previous pop-ups, it’s no wonder she brought it back, this time in a crisp white organic cotton. “When Faith and I discussed what to do for this summer’s version we just kept coming back to this style,” Spearman says. “The white feels both modern and classic.” Each dress is made in Brighton with a lead time of one to four weeks.