Looking For a New Beard Style? This is How to Rock the '90s Soul Patch
Facial hair has long been a symbol of identity and style, but few beard styles are as polarising as the soul patch. This small yet distinctive patch of hair – nestled just below the lower lip – has been embraced by jazz legends, rockstars, and modern trendsetters alike where it has seen its fair share of praise and ridicule.
But what exactly makes the soul patch so enduring? Is it a bold fashion statement, a minimalist’s answer to the full beard, or simply an underrated classic? Here, Stefan Clark, Senior Barber at Murdock London, tells MH everything you need to know about the soul patch, including how to grow one, and the best styles to bookmark.
What is a Soul Patch?
Perhaps the most niche beard style to ever exist, a soul patch is a small tuft of hair just below the lower lip, usually without a full beard or moustache.
'It was popularised in the 1950s and ‘60s, particularly among jazz musicians, and the name likely comes from its association with the "soulful" music scene of that era,' says Clark.
What is the History of the Soul Patch?
'The soul patch has roots in jazz culture, with musicians like Dizzy Gillespie and Stevie Ray Vaughan making it a signature look. It saw a resurgence in the ‘90s, particularly in the alternative and grunge scenes. While ‘90s styles have been making a comeback recently, the soul patch hasn’t been a look we’ve seen much demand for – at least not yet,' schools Clark.
Who Has the Most Famous Soul Patch?
Do a quick google search of soul patches and you'll see the likes of Ryan Gosling, Billy Bob Thornton and John Travolta come up but Clark says Dizzy Gillespie is often credited with making it iconic. You’ll also see it on famous figures like Howie Mandel and even Robert Downey Jr in certain roles. It’s had moments in pop culture, but it isn’t a trend I come across regularly in modern men’s grooming.
How to Style a Soul Patch
Keen to grow a soul patch? The good news is a style that can work for any dude.
1/ Small and Neat Soul Patch
'If you’re set on growing a soul patch, you can keep it small and neatly trimmed for a subtle look.' Remain clean shaven on the rest of your face.
2/ Grown-Out Soul Patch
'Let it grow out slightly for a more defined style,' says Clark. This style means letting your strip grow a little longer towards the bottom of your chin.
3/ Soul Patch with Stubble
A soul patch on its own can look slick but adding other facial hair can give it rugged edge. 'Teaming your soul patch with some stubble can soften the contrast,' adds Clark
4/ Soul Patch with Moustache
The classic anchor-shaped chin beard and soul patch, a la Billy Bob Thornton holds the power to look good on all face shapes.
5/ Soul patch with Moustache and Beard
Ryan Gosling looked suave with this subtle soul patch, moustache and beard.
6/ Soul Patch with Chin Patch and 'Tache
Billy Bob Thornton has had this look going on for some time. The simple moustache and soul patch has a beard running down his lower chin.
7/ Soul Patch with Goatee and Jawline Beard
David Beckham really nailed the brief with this chisled and sculpted soul patch and jawline beard.
How to Grow a Soul Patch
'Growing a soul patch is pretty straightforward: just stop shaving the area directly under your lower lip and let the hair grow out. Most men will start seeing some growth within a week or two, but it can vary depending on individual hair growth patterns,' reveals Clark
Clark's top tip? 'Maintain a clean-shaven or neatly trimmed appearance around the soul patch to help it stand out. Keeping the edges defined with a razor or trimmer will give it a more intentional, polished look. If you have a patchy or slower-growing area, don’t – just be patient and shape it gradually over time.'
How to Take Care of a Soul Patch
Regular trimming is key to keeping it sharp.
Use a beard trimmer or scissors to maintain shape.
A little beard oil or balm can help keep the hair soft and manageable, especially if it’s coarse or wiry. 'I would recommend the Murdock London Beard Balm to any of my customers trying to maintain their soul patch,' says Clark.
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