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Leggings, Layers and Little Simz: Your Definitive Guide to Paris Fashion Week FW24

After brilliant showcases in Copenhagen, New York City, London and Milan, we once again end the Fall/Winter 2024 season with Paris Fashion Week as the grand finale. The city of lights comes alive during the fashion week circuit where the world's leading brands to emerging designers alike showcase the future of fashion from their own visions.

This season, we saw model and creative director debuts, shows held in iconic Parisian venues, concepts inspired by social commentary and a re-energizing season of creativity on display.

From the most inclusive show to the best staging, continue reading for our full recap of PFW FW24 and while you're here, check out the must-know moments from Milan Fashion Week.

Most Talked About Show: The Row

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen made the ultimate case for quite luxury with a "no social media" policy during their FW24 showcase, ironically making The Row the most talked about show of the season. In a time where viral runway concepts can make or break audience sentiment of a fashion brand, The Row chose to focus on the collection and the presence of the moment. In terms of the garments, the emphasis was on drapping, tailoring and a variety of metallic embellishments.

Best Staging and Set Design: Courrèges

Between iconic Parisian venues such as Lacoste at Roland Garros stadium and Louis Vuitton at the Cour Carrée du Louvre, Courrèges' staging stood out for simplicity. In a large, white warehouse, the luxury label designed the floor to breathe up and down to the beat of the music. Paired with audible breaths, some attendees interpreted the concept to be one of self pleasure, especially as the models walked with hands softly moving in their front trouser pockets. It was sultry, symmetric and subtle – in the best way.

Best Soundtrack: Vivienne Westwood

Walked by Kristen McMenamy and Sam Smith, the Vivienne Westwood show created an unforgettable soundtrack for its FW24 runway. The sounds mimicked a birdsong at daybreak: delicate, calm and energizing. But Andreas Kronthaler's show for Vivienne Westwood had so much more in store for spectators. The first surprise of proceedings: that idyllic birdsong wasn't a recording, but made by the trio of dancers and musicians Sons of Sissy, who took over the stage at the heart of the runway. Blending weather-like sounds, pagan percussion and a medley of instruments their seemingly spontaneous soundtrack – complete with bum drumming – was high camp and high entertainment in unison.

Most Inclusive Show: Ester Manas and Balmain

Helmed by creative duo Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, Ester Manas returned to PFW with one of her most inclusive shows to date. As a label dedicated to designing for every body, the FW24 collection was an ode to the female form including ruching and ruffles, cutouts and sheer materials. Elsewhere, Balmain offered a different kind of inclusive casting in the form of age diversity. Carrying on Batsheva's FW24 concept of celebrating models over 40 at New York Fashion Week, the french luxury house had models at a variety of ages walk its runway wearing pieces such as metal breastplates and structured corsets.

Best Collection: Miu Miu and Ottolinger

Between design, functionality, newness and mass appeal, versatility can be the hardest job for a creative director. That's why we're giving flowers to both Miu Miu and Ottolinger this season for their efforts in gracefully crossing fashion categories while celebrating the lifestyles of women today.

Blending corp-core and oversized evening wear, Miu Miu beautifully showcased the transition to adulthood through vivid colors, suiting and knitwear. Meanwhile, Ottolinger focused on the everyday hustle, offering a collection that seamlessly transitions from day to night and from fearless to elegant.

Best Collaboration: Coperni x NASA

 

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Following last season's collaboration with Humane which yielded an AI-embedded brooch, Coperni was back for FW24 with another internet breaking technology-based collaboration to create a new version of its Swipe bag dubbed the "Air Swipe Bag." Made in partnership with Professor Ioannis Michaloudis, the bag is made of 99% air and 1% glass. Additionally, NASA's nanomaterial silica aerogel is used, making it the lightest solid material in the world.

Honorable Mentions: Casablanca, Valentino and Givenchy

We can't go without mentioning the transformative showcases and innovative artistry of Casablanca, Valentino and Givenchy. For Casablanca, FW24 marked a journey influenced by the expansive nature of psychedelics. The label dropped blue ombre dresses and suits while bright red evening wear popped amidst the concert hall venue.

The devil is in the details, or in the case of Givenchy – the cat. Standout looks from the collection included a metallic dress and black suit subtly stitched with a cat's face as well as pale green, faux fur outwear. As for Valentino, the label's staple hot pink was swapped for an all jet black collection featuring sheer dresses, A-line skirts and thick leather belts.