Karoline Vitto is the curve inclusive brand we can't get enough of
When Ashley Graham stepped onto the runway last September in a shredded cut-out dress, complete with sheer mesh flowing over the supermodel’s famous curves, everyone could sense something exciting was coming. That something was London-based designer Karoline Vitto’s S/S 24 ready-to-wear collection, with models ranging in size from a UK 10 to a 24.
During a fashion week that was significantly lacking in body diversity, Vitto’s unapologetic parade of fuller-figured models made her show stand out. This casting wasn’t a tick-box exercise to pay lip service to diversity, this was a statement about beauty, design and the future of fashion. Forget frocks that hide and minimise; think belly-roll framing cut-outs, contour-clinging draped jersey and metal hardware looped across exposed flesh. Ultimately, the designs are sexy, subverting traditional societal narratives around body size.
The designer’s creations have also captured the attention of the A-list, notably Paloma Elsesser, Mahalia and Precious Lee.
“As an industry, we don’t have adequate language in place for sizing. It feels limiting to see people as straight-sized, mid-sized and plus-sized, but these are the most widely-known terms. I have always identified more with the term ‘curve’ because I design for people with curves, regardless of their size,” says Vitto.
The Brazilian-born Central Saint Martins graduate had already gained industry buzz due to showing as part of Dolce & Gabbana’s ‘Supported by’ project. But her ‘proudest moment so far’ was becoming an LVMH (the luxury goods company behind brands such as Louis Vuitton and Dior) Prize semifinalist this year. But being a leader for change within the industry is not without its hardships.
“With this, comes the pressure of being one of the few brands advocating for representation on the catwalk,” she says, “as there are only really a handful of us working with sizes other than S in mind.” As Vitto’s star rises, we have a feeling this won’t stay the case for long.
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