Kalesma review: Is this the most romantic hotel in Mykonos?
It’s 10pm on Saturday night in Mykonos and as the Ouzo-fuelled partygoers hit the glitzy bars and celeb-favourite beach clubs, my partner and I retreat to our perfectly private villa after sunset aperitivos and a sumptuous Greek feast.
With our fluffy robes on and cups of chamomile tea in hand, we stretch out on our plush cloud-like bed and read our books before dozing off around 11pm. A perfect evening, in my opinion. Granted, in our twenties, we would have enthusiastically joined the partygoers on Paradise Beach, doing shots and tearing up the dancefloor into the early hours. But now, in our thirties and unable to handle the hangovers like we used to, waking up, clear-headed to watch the sunrise is a much more appealing prospect.
Thanks to its fun-loving, party-hard reputation, Mykonos had never been on our radar for a restorative romantic getaway. But it turns out, there’s so much more to the island than all-night discos and overpriced sunbeds. It also has a tranquil side, with a crop of hotels offering guests the chance to tune out of the hustle and bustle of everyday life and enjoy some peaceful pampering.
One of the finest is Kalesma, a boutique retreat teetering on a rocky hillside in Aleomandra, overlooking the aquamarine waters of Ornos Bay. With private pools and terraces, unobstructed sea views and soul-soothing spa facilities, it’s worlds away from the island’s flashy party scene.
If you’re after a truly special stay (honeymoon, perhaps?), here’s why Kalesma makes the perfect destination for loved-up couples, newly weds or those who simply want to get away from it all…
What makes Kalesma so special?
With two successful restaurants in Athens to their names, co-founders Aby Saltiel and Makis Kousathanas opened the hideaway in May 2021. Their goal? To offer a warm, inviting space that feels like a home away from home, Saltiel tells me over a Greek salad margarita (yes, really!) in the sunset lounge. “Kalesma means ‘inviting’ in Greek and it’s what we wanted to embody with our property,” he explains.
Sure enough, the hotel lives up to its definition. Saltiel is often found wandering around the common spaces, mingling with guests and sharing his best island advice, from off-the-beaten-track beaches to authentic local eateries. It feels a bit like being a VIP guest in his home – we end up nattering for over an hour. The same passion is felt among all the staff, most of whom have been working at Kalesma since it first opened.
Each and every team member we encountered was friendly and attentive, but never overbearing or OTT. They went above and beyond to make sure we had everything we needed during our stay and they were fun to talk to, showing genuine interest and offering up excellent insider tips.
Stellar hospitality aside, the hotel’s uber luxe, uber secluded setting is tough to top. Kalesma boasts a prime hillside position, with a cluster of whitewashed facades that tumble down on the slope and replicate a typical Cycladic village, serving up commanding views across the glittering Aegean sea. Design – with exteriors by the legendary Athens-based K Studio and interiors by Studio Bonarchi, plus the owners’ input – blends traditional Greek architecture with modern touches and earthy tones.
Then there’s the incredible food and drink. Bagging a table at the hotel’s open-air restaurant, Pere Ubu, is no easy feat, and Aloni Sunset Lounge is an Instagram-worthy hotspot for soaking up the island’s magical orange and purple sunsets while sipping sundowners.
Talk to me about the rooms…
Put simply, they’re staggeringly gorgeous. Kalesma boasts 25 suites and one-bedroom villas, each with a spacious bedroom, bathroom and floor-to-ceiling windows leading out onto a private wrap-around terrace. Here, you’ll find a heated infinity pool, sunloungers, a sheltered dining area and an outdoor shower. There are also three larger villas, which go one step further with multiple bedrooms, a fully-equipped kitchen, fitness room and personal chef – ideal for family getaways or special group trips.
We were treated to two blissful nights in a one-bedroom sea view villa and all I can say is wow. I’ve been fortunate enough to stay in some incredible hotel rooms over the years and I can honestly say, our suite at Kalesma is top of the pack.
It’s deceptively easy to while away the hours in the sprawling space, which really does feel like your own home within the hotel. We would wake up, watch the sun rise above the blindingly blue sea, then spend the rest of day lazing around on our mammoth terrace, flitting between the pool and our sun loungers.
We didn’t even surface for lunch, instead opting for room service picky bits (the best kind of holiday lunch, in my opinion) in our shady dining area. I’m talking warm pitta, garlicky tzatziki and tomato salad, washed down with icy diet cokes. Heaven.
Interiors-wise, the large, airy suites are Cycladic chic, with classic white walls, marble, stone floors and wooden ceilings and soft furnishings in warm, muted colour palettes. The bathrooms are also spacious, with large egg-shaped tubs perfectly positioned by the window, allowing you to gaze across the bay as you wallow. There are even wireless Marshall speakers for soundtracking your relaxation.
How’s the food?
As is customary, let’s start with breakfast, which is served à la carte in Pere Ubu until a very leisurely 1pm – handy when you’ve been out on the razz the night before. Portions are generous, healthy and combine Greek and international flavours, with everything from açai bowls and scrambled eggs on toast to bougatsa (a crispy custard-filled filo pastry) and slow braised beef with poached eggs and local graviera cheese. There are also fresh juices and smoothies, organic Greek yoghurts, homemade jams and nut butters plus high-quality cheeses and meats.
As a creature of habit, I started each morning with an exquisite egg white omelette with smoked salmon, avocado and goats cheese and an oat frappe, followed by croissant french choice served with the sweetest, juiciest caramelised banana, lashings of peanut butter, fresh fruit and a tongue-tinglingly tasty rum and raisin cream.
In the evenings, the open-air eatery, which comes alive with soulful beats, lanterns and lively chatter, serves deluxe Mediterranean fare dreamt up by executive chef Costas Tsingas. Think saganaki drenched in hot honey, crispy eggplant with a zingy yoghurt sauce, fire-grilled mackerel fillets and freshly sizzled bread with an array of dips (my favourite was the spiced smoked feta offering). Before feasting, be sure to nab a seat by the firepit at Aloni Sunset Lounge for an expertly mixed cocktail – may I suggest the watermelon, coconut and lime colada? – for the incredible views and vibes.
If you and your S.O. are in the mood for a more intimate dining experience, you can also opt for a candlelit dinner à deux in your suite or villa.
Tell me about its wellness offering
New for 2024, the small but atmospheric spa features a hammam, sauna and cold plunge pool to help you reap the rewards of contrast therapy, two dimly-lit therapy rooms and next-level Dr Barbara Sturm face and body treatments. I had an outrageously good signature facial, which left my skin feeling gorgeous and glowy for days on end, but there’s a vast range to choose from, including anti-pigmentation and acne offerings, too.
And if you want to keep up your fitness routine? Handily, all rooms are equipped with a small set of dumbbells, resistance bands and exercise mats, so you can gaze out to the sea as you move your bod. If you want to get a proper sweat on, the basement gym is kitted out with Technogym cardio machines and heavier weights.
Keen to have a break from our intense exercise routines back home, we decided to swerve the gym for private sunrise yoga classes on our terrace. With ambient music tinkering in the background alongside the sound of the gently lapping waves, our teacher Viktoriya took us through a glorious stretchy flow, which helped our bodies and my brains totally relax. It really was the most blissful way to start our days.
If I can tear myself away from my terrace, what else is there to do?
If you fancy venturing out and exploring all that Mykonos has to offer, the team will use their local knowledge and network of contacts to create a tailor-made itinerary for you, whether you’re looking to score a spot at a coveted beach club, you fancy a spot of scuba diving or you simply want to kick back on a private beach.
Even though complimentary beach drop-offs at nearby Ornos Bay and Agios Ioannis beach are available, I’m a tad embarrassed to admit that we didn’t manage to leave the confines of Kalesma. But in our defence, we were only there for a weekend and our sensuous suite was just too good to leave. Oh well, it’s the perfect excuse to return and discover the island properly…
I’m sold. Get me there immediately
It’s around 3 hours and 45 minutes to fly to Mykonos, with regular flights operating from major UK airports. The hotel is a breezy 15-minute drive from the airport (private transfers can be arranged).
Stays start from £935 per night for two people on a B&B basis. Kalesma is open from 1st May to 15th October 2024. Check the website for more information. BOOK NOW
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