Jordan Kahn’s Vespertine Earns Back Two Michelin Stars as Restaurant Is Hailed as “Singular Operation”
It was Michelin Monday in California.
The famed dining guide doled out its roster of 2024 awardees, bestowing a series of stars on some high-profile restaurants in Los Angeles and beyond during a ceremony at the Ritz-Carlton in Half Moon Bay last night. While there weren’t any new three-star ratings in California, Los Angeles landed three new one-star ratings thanks to chef Gilberto Cetina’s Holbox in South Central, Jordan Kahn’s Meteora on Melrose Avenue and Yoshitaka Mitsue and Shingo Kato’s kaiseki restaurant Uka in Hollywood. Also earning one star were R|O-Rebel Omakase in Laguna Beach and 7 Adams in San Francisco.
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Kahn’s recently reopened Vespertine, the fine dining mecca in Culver City, also earned back its two stars after being closed for a four year stretch that started with the pandemic in March 2020. L.A.’s other two-star establishments include Hayato, Mélisse and Providence. Also snagging two stars were Aubergine in Carmel, Calif., and Sons & Daughters in San Francisco. It was not the only honor for Vespertine last night as the restaurant landed a Green Star Award for sustainability.
Michelin provides notes on each selection. For Vespertine, inspectors called it a “singular operation” that has emerged from its hiatus with a renewed creative vision. “Each dish is visually stunning, with cuisine that is not only daringly inventive, but also marshals finely honed technique and impeccably balanced flavors as in an artful dish of scallop with passionfruit, ají amarillo and petals of horseradish tuile, or an ‘obsidian mirror’ of smoked mussel cream with salted plum. The meal ends as strong as it begins, with a mesmerizing dessert that features kaleidoscopic flavors,” per Michelin.
In a statement to The Hollywood Reporter, Kahn said he’s ecstatic. “I am delighted and deeply honored for Vespertine regaining two Michelin stars in just 4 months. It is a reflection of the hard work of my team and our partners, who truly deserve this recognition. Being acknowledged alongside the leaders in our industry is humbling and meaningful.”
Also significant for him was the nod for sustainability with a Green Star. “I feel a strong responsibility to connect guests with nature through our food. Our environmentally conscious approach allows us to collaborate with inspiring people who share our ethos of sustainable and regenerative practices, bringing us closer to the magic of life that surrounds us.”
In other news, a Sommelier Award was presented to Ian Krupp, the wine director at Anajak Thai Cuisine in Sherman Oaks. The Ventura Boulevard restaurant has enjoyed quite the boom in popularity after being named the best restaurant in Los Angeles by the Los Angeles Times.
“California continues to shine bright as we see the culinary scene evolve and highlight emerging talent and cuisines,” said Gwendal Poullennec, Michelin Guides’ international director. “Our Inspectors continue to be impressed with this year’s selection and we toast and celebrate the excellent chef and restaurant teams being recognized.”
Regarding Holbox, Michelin praised Cetina for drawing from Mexican coastal cuisines in dishes “whose simplicity belies remarkable flavor.” The notes singled out “spectacular quality seafood of unassailable freshness” put to good use in everything from “vibrant aguachiles and ceviches, excellent tacos served on house-made heirloom corn tortillas, or skillfully grilled lobster.”
Responding to the news, Cetina called it an honor and said it’s testament to his team’s dedication. “This achievement would not be possible without the support of our loyal diners and the vibrant community of Mercado La Paloma.”
For Meteora, inspectors raved about its “whimsical, immersive space” by calling it “a touch otherworldly.” The word “singular” was once again deployed to describe Kahn’s cuisine: “Charred yam with a buttery sauce accented with smoked trout roe and grilled hazelnuts is more than the sum of its parts, and a dish of raw scallops with a vivid macadamia nut leche de tigre, banana and crunchy kombu manages to both surprise and delight.”
Kahn also responded to the good news for his Melrose Avenue outpost, calling it a significant achievement. “Our vision was to create a modern restaurant inspired by ancestral wisdom. Through a holistic approach, we have created an experience that reminds us of our intimate relationship with nature. I am incredibly humbled and grateful for a dedicated and talented team that leads with passion, inspiring me every day to be a better leader.”
Michelin also handed out Bib Gourmand distinctions, recognizing eatieres “for great food at a great value.” That list includes Cedro Italian Restaurant, Grá, Little Fish, Liu’s Cafe, Lola Gaspar, Mae Malai Thai House of Noodles, Manohar’s Deli Palace, Molti Amici, Pollo a la Brasa and Quarter Sheets.
Some not-so-great news was also on Monday’s Michelin menu. L.A.’s Q Sushi lost its single Michelin star, as did Curtis Stone’s Maude, which is on the verge of closing. Beverly Hills omakase eatery Sushi Ginza Onodera lost one of its two stars, as did N/Naka, the Palms kaiseki restaurant. A full rundown of the Michelin news can be found here.
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