How Iris van Herpen has transformed the world of couture
Rest assured, if you're currently unfamiliar with the name Iris van Herpen, you will at least be more than familiar with the experimental fashion designer's striking, avant-garde creations.
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With a focus on contrast, fittingly her eponymous brand fuses artisanal craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology and, trust us, the results need to be seen to be believed.
What is the story behind the Iris van Herpen label?
Dutch-born designer Iris van Herpen grew up in a farming village and learnt ballet from a young age. Her childhood, backgrounded by dance, prompted her to think about space and volume in almost forensic detail – a theme that she constantly refers back to in her work.
After Iris graduated from Arnhem's ArtEZ University of Arts in 2006, she interned at Alexander McQueen. The following year the designer launched her own eponymous label and released her first couture collection, entitled 'Chemical Crows', at Amsterdam Fashion Week.
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Iris was one of the first designers to fully harness the powers of 3D-printing, her designs often explore nature and pattern – themes that lend themselves to digital fabrication and laser cutting, among other innovative techniques.
As such, her profile rose and her designs were worn by those who appreciated her visionary approach – Lady Gaga, for instance, who is similarly known as a trailblazer in her respective field, has been a huge fan of the brand since 2009.
What is Iris van Herpen known for?
The brand boasts an instantly recognisable aesthetic, largely centred around the use of unconventional materials – silicones, iron filings, and resin, to name a few.
Iris van Herpen pieces tend to focus on the idea of fashion as an art form, with designs often possessing strong sculptural tendencies and exuding a certain offbeat, radical glamour.
Actress Julia Fox, known for her daring fashion choices, is one of the brand's most dedicated champions. At Iris van Herpen's fall 2022 show, Julia wore a monochrome optical illusion-style gown, featuring the ultimate dramatic sleeve moment, which she paired with a pompadour-style updo and bleached eyebrows – naturally.
Other fans of the brand include Dove Cameron and Winnie Harlow who both relied on the Dutch designer this year for their Met Gala looks. Dove looked angelic in a white, almost bone-like, structured dress alongside her signature feline eyeliner, whereas Winnie sported a frothy sheer mini and a matching geometric headdress.
"Fashion is an instrument for change, to shift us emotionally," Iris said, on the subject of her creative focus.
"Through biomimicry I look at the forces behind the forms in nature, these patterns and natural cycles are my guide to explore new forms of femininity for a more conscious and sustainable fashion for the future."
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