The Internet Is Obsessed With This Face Mask That Claims To Boost Collagen. Is It Legit?

Experts say the popular overnight collagen masks can be good for your skin, but don't actually deliver collagen to your body.
Experts say the popular overnight collagen masks can be good for your skin, but don't actually deliver collagen to your body. Illustration:Hayley Thornton-Kennedy For HuffPost

All over social media, “collagen” has become a buzzword. Beauty influencers are waking up, turning on their cameras and peeling off translucent, collagen-infused face masks that promise to give you younger-looking “glass skin,” while minimizing pores and adding plumpness to your face.

These masks are intended to be worn for multiple hours at a time ― often overnight. They’re opaque when you put them on and become translucent after a few hours when your skin supposedly absorbs the collagen from the face masks.

In addition to leaving you with dewy skin, these masks claim to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, all while strengthening your skin barrier.

Can face masks really do all of that? Below, dermatologists share their thoughts on these viral overnight collagen masks.

Collagen face masks do not actually boost collagen production.

Adding more collagen to your skin is an understandable want. As you get older, collagen production naturally decreases and this has impacts on the way your skin looks.

“Collagen is an important structural component of our skin,” Dr. Sa Rang Kim, an assistant professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine in Connecticut, told HuffPost via email. “The loss of collagen in the skin, along with the loss in elasticity and impaired skin barrier function, lead to wrinkles and sagging skin.”

But while collagen may be included on a face mask’s ingredients list, this kind of mask doesn’t actually do much to prevent the issues that come with less collagen production. “Despite its increasing popularity, the scientific evidence for its efficacy is lacking and it is important to understand its limitations; they do not increase collagen production and are not a substitute for professional treatments,” Kim explained.

“By applying collagen topically, the thought is that it helps with antiaging. The problem is that collagen is produced by cells in the skin, so applying it topically doesn’t necessarily do anything,” said Dr. Angela Lamb, the director of Westside Mount Sinai Dermatology Faculty Practice and an associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Health System in New York.

The masks are good for moisture and other short-term skin benefits.

“What most face masks are doing since ... it’s just something applied to the skin topically, and it’s only for a short contact period of time, it’s really just to give you that nice glow and help your skin just feel better,” Lamb said.

When worn overnight, collagen face masks can deliver moisture and active ingredients to your skin.

“They can help improve the skin’s appearance by providing hydration ... and temporarily reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” Kim said.

Professional treatments and sun protection can help with collagen.

“There are several different ways to boost collagen in the skin. One simple but effective way is sun protection. UV rays damage collagen, and sun protection will provide a barrier to increasing collagen degradation,” Kim said.

Professional treatments such as lasers, microneedling and chemical peels can help boost collagen, improve the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation, and can be very effective,” she added.

Topical retinoids, which can be prescribed by dermatologists, can also boost collagen production, with the added bonus of potentially reducing acne, pore size and hyperpigmentation.

“While topical retinoids are effective, they can cause initial irritation, redness, and dryness,” Kim said. “It’s important to start with a low concentration and gradually increase it as tolerated. Consult with a dermatologist for personalized recommendations.”

Overnight collagen face masks can provide hydration, but don't expect them to actually boost your body's collagen production.
Overnight collagen face masks can provide hydration, but don't expect them to actually boost your body's collagen production. Boy_Anupong via Getty Images

The masks are safe to use overall, but certain people should be cautious.

Lamb said collagen masks are fine to use unless you have a known allergy to one of the ingredients.

“A lot of face masks, in general, have some kind of fragrance in them, or may have things like lactic or glycolic acids in them, which can be irritating,” Lamb noted.

“In addition to allergic reactions, one may experience clogged pores or acne due to the occlusive nature of collagen face masks,” Kim said. If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, Kim recommended lighter or water-based face masks instead.

If you don’t have allergies to any of the ingredients or have any skin problems that could be aggravated, both Lamb and Kim recommend collagen face masks.

“Collagen face masks are great,” Lamb said. “Face masks in general could be a nice, elegant experience for patients.”

“If you are looking for a temporary hydration boost or a pampering experience, collagen face masks can be a fun and convenient option,” Kim noted, adding that they can be especially beneficial for folks with dry skin.

“I enjoy them and often will use them the night before a celebration for hydration. However, it’s important to manage expectations and understand that they won’t provide dramatic or long-lasting results,” Kim said.

In other words, these face masks are a great way to give your skin some TLC, but ― like virtually everything in the beauty industry ― they aren’t miracle workers.

“While collagen face masks can be a helpful addition to a skincare routine, it’s important to focus on a holistic approach to skin health,” Kim wrote. “This includes protecting your skin from sun damage, eating a healthy diet and using targeted skincare products.”

To figure out what is best for you and your skin health, you should talk to a dermatologist for personalized care and recommendations, Kim added. 

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