Inside the Italian hotel that showcases the country's cinematic beauty
The cinematic beauty of Positano isn't exactly a secret. Indeed, this once quiet fishing village is one of the most popular tourist spots in Italy, and the near undisputed jewel in the Amalfi Coast's glittering crown.
What is rather less well-known is this: the best view in Positano lies outside its centre, in a promontory just east of the iconic cliffside village. It is a view not from Positano but of it, framed in all its arresting, impossible glory, a riot of colourful houses tumbling towards the Tyrrhenian Sea beneath.
This view can be found at Villa Treville, a hotel that faces the timeless village and oozes old-school Italian charm. Once the private estate of Italian film and opera director Franco Zeffirelli, the expansive space is a stacked maze of terraced gardens scattered with a handful of suites and villas. Fittingly, given its former owner, staying here feels like stumbling across a film set, every inch eclectically curated, every view a screen-ready tableau of Positano.
The concept
Together, the suites and a handful of hotel villas amount to only 22 rooms – each with a Slim Aarons-worthy sea view – for a maximum of 54 guests. This is a hotel that is rightfully aware of upholding its exclusive, secluded air; the restaurant and bar are for hotel guests only, and visitor access is carefully regulated.
Zeffirelli's friend and famed set designer Renzo Mongiadrino lent his artistic touch to the interior design years ago, and the former spent years enhancing the property himself. The three 18th-century villas (the tre ville) at the centre of the hotel retain the original Mediterranean-meets-Moorish style, with gleaming mosaics and a dizzying array of local ceramics set against a backdrop of pillars and pergolas, illuminated by lantern light come evening.
The rooms
Rest assured that preserving the property's artful legacy has not come at the expense of five-star mod-cons – expect Dyson hair tools in the bathroom, impeccable housekeeping and an almost surreal abundance of space.
No two rooms are alike, but each is worthy of its own interiors magazine spread – or Instagram grid post – with vibrant tile work, bold colour palettes and a balcony or terrace. It's too hard to pick favourites, but perhaps the most opulent is the Zeffirelli suite with an ample four bedrooms and private plunge pool.
The drinking and dining
Chef Vincenzo Castaldo and his team do a masterful job at Maestro's, the aptly named hotel restaurant, which serves an ever-changing seasonal menu with fruit, vegetable and tangles of herbs grown on-site in Treville's thriving organic farm. Perfect pasta and freshest seafood are guaranteed, as is a hypnotic view of Positano from every table in the luxuriously spread-out space.
Breakfast is a delight, and as the day wears on not even the most sunbathing-averse can resist the sirenic call of On The Rocks, Villa Treville's own 'beach' club set dramatically at the base of the hotel. As for aperitivo, head for Bianca Bar, a romantic spot that feels as if it should be lost in clouds of incense. Here, there's a micro-distillery that utilises herbs and botanicals gathered in Treville's gardens to perfect drinks like limoncello martinis (clear as crystal, thanks to an ingenious distillation process).
The crowd
As you might expect, Villa Treville draws a discerning, Missoni-clad crowd, so pack appropriately. Illustrious former guests include Coco Chanel, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, with a host of more modern A-listers (J-Lo and Madonna among them) also gracing its airy spaces. But none are spared the VIP treatment here, and it's more like staying in an achingly chic friend's pad than a stuffy hotel. It can be rented for weddings, but a more achievable choice might be to reserve this one for your honeymoon – or mini-moon, or babymoon for that matter.
While here...
There's frankly very little reason to leave this temple of scenic seclusion, but a trip here wouldn't feel complete without popping over to Positano itself. It's a 15-minute walk (or an even quicker drive) away, but the best way to get into town is to take Villa Treville's complimentary shuttle boat, which departs from On The Rocks and deposits you right in the centre of town. You might also want to ask the hotel to book you a table at celebrity favourite Lo Scoglio (a 30-minute boat ride away) for a taste of spaghetti alla nerano – for Stanley Tucci fans, it's a must.
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