Inside Devon's most romantic seaside bolthole
The Gara Rock of my childhood looks very different today. Gone is the 1990s hotel from our family holiday photo albums, charming but dated in all its faded seaside glory. In its place now stands a haven of homely, easy-going luxury that feels both glamorously special and relaxingly familiar all at once – no mean feat. Given the strength of my nostalgia, it’s a relief to still love it so much.
It really is in the middle of nowhere; trundling with the tractors down country lanes in a storm did nothing for my cortisol levels. But moments after stepping into the cosy lounge with all its earthy tones and natural textures, Zen sets in. My welcome is as warming as the first tipple from the Gin Bar, and the staff are unwaveringly lovely throughout our two-night stay.
Before reaching our room I am magnetically pulled towards the glass dining space overlooking the sea and cove below. Later that evening I sit by the same window enjoying the best pudding of my life (and I have enjoyed many puddings): Gara’s signature, comprising sponge made with honey from the hotel’s own bees, silky yogurt panna cotta, milk sorbet and a honeycomb tuile. Foodies will also rave about the Roscoff onion butter – fantastically moreish with the artisan beer bread rolls.
It’s tough to leave our gorgeous Junior Suite with its king-size bed, roll-top bath and Penhaligon’s potions (note: for peak romance, the secluded Secret Suite is the jewel in Gara’s crown, while chic self-catering cottages cater for groups), but I tear myself away for some chill time in the small but elegant spa.
I'm tempted by a private viewing in the boutique cinema room, too, and don’t miss a trip to buzzy, stylish Salcombe. It’s an hour’s drive around the estuary but you can enjoy a short stroll along the scenic South West Coast Path to catch the five-minute passenger ferry – so fun we do it twice for fish, chips and ice cream, just like the old days.
But really, as an interiors lover, I could have done nothing here and had a great time, because Gara Rock is all of my Pinterest boards come to life. Seaside hotels often take the nautical theme too literally for my liking, so I loved the cooler, more subtle nods to its dramatic cliff-edge setting – think ship-style sconces, knotted rope doorstops and lampshades made of fishermen’s netting.
I oohed and ahhed at the muted paint palette (all Farrow & Ball of course), on-trend brass lighting, oversized rattan pendants (find them at locally-based Nkuku), leather banquette seating, ticking stripe curtains and cool contemporary art.
I left full of inspiration (and that pudding of dreams), yet already hungry to return. If it’s a special staycation to remember that you’re after, book now.
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