The ingredient derms swear by in an eye cream for smoothing wrinkles
Let's face it, the first signs of aging tend to happen around the eyes, whether that's crow's feet (or 'smile lines'), wrinkles, dark circles or puffiness. This is often because the skin around the delicate eye area is far thinner than the rest of your face, so it ages quicker.
When dealing with skin concerns like pigmentation or wrinkles, we often turn to our favourite active ingredient, retinol. Not only is the vitamin A derivative a star ingredient to use in facial serums, but advances in skincare tech means retinol is now seen in eye creams to tackle the same concerns. Take a sneak peek at our favourite formulas, as well as a few dermatologist reccomendations, below...
What does a retinol eye cream do?
'Retinol eye creams provide several key benefits, including smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, enhancing skin firmness, and brightening the under-eye area,' says Emily West, aesthetic nurse practitioner at Creo Clinic.
If you're thinking 'well, I can just use my facial retinol as an eye cream', think again! 'Many formulas that are suitable for the face (where the skin is thicker and more resilient) can often irritate the very delicate skin around the eyes. A retinol eye cream provides targeted care that a regular moisturiser may not, due to its tailored formulation for this sensitive area,' says Daniel Isaacs, Chief Product Officer and Founding Partner of Medik8.
So while they may not be as potent as the serum on your face, this tweaked (and smaller) dosage will prevent irritation from happening. 'Concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 0.1% are considered safe and effective for a retinol-based eye cream,' says West. She suggests those who are new to retinol to start with the lowest concentration and work up.
How should you apply a retinol eye cream?
As with any retinoid-based product, you shouldn't slather it on willy-nilly. Being an active ingredient, it's important to apply it correctly to prevent flare-ups. 'Eye creams are typically applied after a face serum but before a moisturiser. If using an eye serum instead, apply it directly after cleansing and toning, before other serums or moisturisers,' suggests Isaacs.
'You should use a pea-sized amount for both eyes. Gently dot the product along the orbital bone (the bony area surrounding the eye) and tap it with your ring finger to avoid tugging the skin,' says Dr Tatiana Mandavia, Clinical Director at Doctors Tatiana + Rishi Advanced Aesthetics.
She says it's important not to apply the cream close to the lash line or directly on the eyelids as this can lead to irritation, and to always wear a good SPF as retinol can increase sun sensitivity.
The best retinol eye creams...
1.Murad, Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum
Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum
We'll forever back Murad's corner when it comes to high-performing skincare. There's so much to covet in the brand's extensive line-up, but a formula that truly excites the team is the Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum.
It's cocktailed with three forms of retinoid, working to smooth fine lines and plump out the depth of wrinkles. But, besides being a potent formula, it's suitable for those with sensitive skin too as the retinol is held within a hydrating base (featuring hyaluronic acid and cotton wool grass extract) to prevent irritation.
2. The Inkey List, Retinol Eye Cream
Retinol Eye Cream
Sure, retinol can be an expensive ingredient, but you'd be mistaken for thinking that you can't find a hard-working and safe formula for under £15. Famously keeping its price tags low, The Inkey List's Retinol Eye Cream proves you wrong!
Containing slow-release retinol (this encourages the skin to absorb the ingredient gradually, thus less likely to cause irritation), the formula will help to smooth the appearance of fine lines and, when used consistently, will create a more lifted appearance. The retinol is held within a cushioning base of shea butter and glycerin, providing hydration to the skin, too.
3. Medik8, Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye Cream
Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye
Medik8's Crystal Retinal is undoubtedly the brand's hero product so you'll be pleased to know there is an eye cream sister. Like the face serum, the eye cream comes in a series of three progressive strengths that get higher in concentration as you work up the ladder. Once your skin adjusts to the formula, you can graduate.
As for the formula, it spotlights encapsulated retinaldehyde – this is less likely to cause surface-level irritation compared to retinol – making it a great option for the delicate eye area. 'It's also expertly formulated with ceramides, hyaluronic acid filling spheres and chamomile extracts to deliver deeply nourishing care,' says Isaacs.
4. Nip + Fab Retinol Fix Eye Treatment
Retinol Fix Eye Treatment
If brightening is what you're after, the Nip + Fab Retinol Fix Eye Treatment is formulated with vitamin C to reduce the appearance of dark circles, creating a more awakened look – even though we know you haven't had enough sleep! Of course, it's also formulated with bakuchiol – a natural alternative to retinol – to smooth fine lines and plump all around.
5. La Roche-Posay Redermic Retinol Eye Cream
Redermic Retinol Eye Cream
If your skin sits on the sensitive side, La Roche-Posay is a great place to start. The French pharmacy brand always considers sensitive skin in its formulations, including retinol. Its Redermic Retinol Eye Cream contains slow-release retinol, which helps the skin absorb it easier, so it's less likely to cause surface-level irritation. It's also infused with caffeine to perk up sallow, tired eyes.
6. Dr Sam's Nightly Eye 2% Retinoid Serum
Flawless Nightly Eye Serum
Dr Sam Bunting is our fave dermatologist – yes, when you work in beauty, that's a thing. So we're placing a lot of trust in her namesake brand, Dr Sam's. The Nightly Eye 2% Retinoid Cream is a potent cream that does a stellar job at smoothing fine lines, plumping and brightening without causing irritation – no wonder it's our Beauty Editor's, Perdie Nouril, fave formula. As for the texture, the rich consistency feels especially comforting to use at night – and it's particularly great for those prone to dryness.
7. Medik8, r-Retinoate Day & Night Eye Serum
r-Retinoate Day & Night Eye Serum
A step up from the Medik8 Ceramide Eye Cream, this serum is formulated with retinyl retinoate, known to be eight times more powerful than retinol. Yes, it'll do a great job at lifting and smoothing line lines, but it also helps reduce puffiness and smooth the appearance of sallow eye contours.
'It tackles the look of under-eye dryness, puffiness and dark circles while remaining gentle on the delicate eye area,' says Isaacs. It may cost £99, but stay loyal to it and you'll understand why.
Do retinol eye creams work better than standard ones?
It may not be a question of whether one is better than another, but a retinoid-based eye cream may be a better choice depending on your skin goals.
'In my opinion, everyone needs a dedicated eye cream – especially when you're over the age of 30,' says Dr Sophie Shotter, aesthetic doctor, founder of Illuminate Skin Clinic. 'Eye creams are specifically formulated to address common concerns and provide targeted care for this sensitive area,' she adds.
Many eye creams offer hydration which can help with puffiness and dehydration, but if you're looking to reverse the signs of ageing (read: smooth fine lines, reduce eye bags and lift), a retinol eye cream will be your best bet.
Can everyone use a retinol eye cream?
Here's the thing, retinol eye creams aren't for everyone. 'People with sensitive skin, active eczema or rosacea under the eye should avoid retinol eye creams as they may exacerbate irritation,' says Dr Mandavia. 'Pregnant or breastfeeding women should also avoid retinol products as they're not recommended during this time,' she adds.
However, if you're concerned with signs of ageing (read: fine lines, wrinkles and loss of firmness) you may find a retinol eye cream a very useful treatment indeed.
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