Is ‘inflammageing’ ageing your skin?
It’s no secret that the skin can be affected by hundreds of different factors. As much as we love to experiment with serums, masks and face creams – especially when caring for ageing skin – the truth is that our diet, stress levels and genetics play just as big a role when it comes to skin health in general.
While it’s tricky (even for us at GH!) to keep up with every new viral buzzword, the latest one to hit the skin and aesthetics scene refers directly to these internal, and even environmental, aggressors that may be accelerating the skin’s natural ageing process.
Dubbed ‘inflammageing’, the term essentially refers to a level of inflammation which causes the skin to dehydrate and lose its elasticity. This, in turn, may give the appearance of ageing on the surface, and potentially contribute to long-term damage below.
As this all sounds quite confusing, we decided to dive deeper into how this all works, and whether it might be affecting us. With the help of one of London’s leading specialists in dermatology and hormones, we got the low-down on inflammageing and, most importantly, how to combat it.
How does inflammageing work?
Dr Gina Schoeman, an aesthetic doctor at the Creo Clinic, says that our immune system can become less efficient with age, which can exacerbate its reactions to normal, everyday factors. “Our skin is the body’s largest organ and its first line of defence against the outside world. Everyday, it is exposed to environmental stressors like pollution, chemicals and UV radiation from the sun,” Dr Schoeman explains.
“Over time, these factors trigger the process known as inflammaging – a low-grade, chronic inflammation that accelerates skin ageing.”
Research from L’Oréal Paris suggests that visible signs of inflammaging include dehydrated skin on the face, sagging, wrinkles and irritation, particularly on sensitive skin.
Where does it come from?
According to Dr Schoeman, a combination of genetics, lifestyle and the environment can make some people more susceptible to inflammageing.
“Having a genetic tendency for faster or more severe inflammageing can increase the chances of this happening. Conditions such as arthritis, diabetes, and cardiovascular diseases can be main triggers” she explains. For midlife women in particular, hormonal and metabolic changes which come with age – namely PCOS, endometriosis and various thyroid issues – are also important to keep an eye on.
Genetics aside, Dr Schoeman adds that “smoking, high stress and a poor diet – such as consuming processed foods, sugar and excessive alcohol – and externally, pollution or UV exposure are also major causes.”
How do I prevent inflammageing?
Dr Schoeman warns that while visible signs of inflammageing usually begin to show between age 40 to 50, the main thing to know is that it’s always advisable to take action earlier. These include more reactive skin such as redness, pigmentation and especially loss of elasticity around the eyes.
“Although you can’t completely stop the natural ageing process, there are lots of things you can do to slow down inflammageing. One of the best things is to eat an anti-inflammatory diet, involving foods such as leafy greens, berries, fatty fish, nuts, seeds, and grains,” she says. These are rich in both antioxidants and omega-3s, which help to reduce the appearance of inflammation on the skin.
“Regular exercise is also hugely important,” she adds, as along with a balanced diet, this lowers inflammatory markers in the body.
What are the best treatments?
To begin, Dr Schoeman always recommends going for a full set of blood tests, to first check for any deficiencies in vital minerals and vitamins, as these may also be factoring into skin ageing and dehydration.
As for skincare, Dr Schoemann stresses the importance of protecting your skin from UV damage by wearing sunscreen daily, as well as incorporating certain ingredients into your skincare routine. “Niacinimide helps to reduce inflammation and strengthens the skin barrier, while vitamin C brightens the skin and fights oxidative stress.”
She adds that peptides and retinoids (mainly retinol) are also great choices as they help to stimulate collagen production, which is often limited by inflammageing, and improve the skin texture when any fine lines or wrinkles start to appear.
Opting for in-clinic treatments is another effective way to slow down the process of inflammageing. “Polynucleotide injections and medically-prescribed reparative skincare regimens are fantastic for improving skin health and preventing inflammageing from returning in the future,” says Dr Schoeman.
“Red LED light therapy also effectively penetrates into the skin to boost collagen production, which both reduces inflammation and promotes healing. It can be really beneficial for those also dealing with other skin conditions linked to inflammageing, such as rosacea or sun damage.”
At the CREO Clinic, Dr Schoeman’s Fotona 4D laser treatment prioritises both the prevention and treatment of these skin changes. By removing damaged skin cells, the process allows for fresher skin regeneration, which she explains is key: “your skin is worth protecting – take action today for healthier, stronger skin tomorrow.”
Shop ours and Dr Schoeman’s top skincare picks to help with inflammation
Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum
Anthelios UVMUNE Ultra-Light Invisible Fluid SPF50+
Super Pure Niacinimide + Zinc Serum
Retinol 3TR Serum
1% Retinol Face Serum
Deep Lift Eye Cream
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