I'm a travel writer who fell in love with India. These are the places to visit
The thing that struck me the most on my first ever visit to India, as a student, was its serene beauty. I had gone for a fly and flop holiday to Goa with my best friend, staying at a hotel on Anjuna Beach, a former hippy hangout which still retained some elements of its boho past.
Swaying palm trees and golden sands beguiled me, but most memorable was the fact our trip was - inadvertently - timed with one of the country’s biggest celebrations: Holi, a festival which celebrates the beginning of spring and the victory of good over evil. What we hadn’t realised, either, is that it’s observed by throngs of people throwing around various coloured powders.
By the end of the day, we were covered in many different hues, from yellow to pink and blue - and so remains one of my abiding impressions of India: as a bright, vibrant, sometimes crazy and chaotic destination, teeming with life and vitality.
I’ve been lucky enough to return several times since then and have few recommendations of where travellers should go and why. Here are the best places to visit in India... and if you're looking to tick off multiple destinations in one incredible trip, it's worth checking out Good Housekeeping's 18-day tour combining luxury hotel stays in the famous Golden Triangle with Uniworld's amazing Ganges cruise. Or make your journey all the more special by joining Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar on a once-in-a-lifetime holiday.
The best places to visit in India
New Delhi: explore the colonial legacy of India's capital city
It’s important to distinguish between Old Delhi, the most historic part of the city which dates back to the time of the Mughals (India’s ancient rulers), and New Delhi, which was designed and created by the British during colonial times. Many of the fine buildings you’ll see here were by renowned architect Sir Edward Lutyens, who was also responsible for the Cenotaph in London’s Whitehall and the imposing Midland Bank Building in Manchester.
Some of the most striking structures in New Delhi include India Gate, another war memorial; Old Parliament House, also known as Samvidhan Sadan; and Connaught Place, the city’s main financial, commercial and business centre, composed of a series of handsome Georgian-style edifices.
Elsewhere, don’t miss other important sites such as Humayun’s Tomb, a handsome, sandstone structure which is the final resting place of a Mughal emperor, and the flower-shaped Lotus Temple, a Baha’i house of worship which welcomes all religions.
VISIT NEW DELHI ON A TRIP WITH ATUL KOCHHAR
Taj Mahal: marvel at the evidence of an emperor’s love for his wife
Nothing can quite compare with getting up close to one of the world’s most famous mausoleums. No matter how many times you’ve seen it in pictures - perhaps most famously when Princess Diana sat in front of it, cutting a lonely figure without husband Charles, in 1992 - its sheer size and majesty can’t fail to impress.
The Taj Mahal was commissioned in 1631 by Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, to house the tomb of his beloved and much-mourned wife, Mumtaz Mahal, after her death in 1631, and work on the whole complex and grounds, which span 42 acres, was finally completed in 1653. The mausoleum itself is made from pristine white marble inlaid with semi-precious stones, and over 20,000 labourers and artisans helped create it.
It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, and attracts over five million visitors a year, drawn to its impossibly romantic backstory and beautiful design.
SEE THE TAJ MAHAL AT SUNSET ON A GOLDEN TRIANGLE TOUR
Jaipur: soak up the beauty of the Pink City
"Pink," once proclaimed former US Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, "is the navy blue of India." She was referring to the fact that the colour is ubiquitous throughout the country, and perhaps nowhere more so than in Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. In India, pink is associated with royalty, festivals and hospitality, so it was fitting that in 1876, the Maharajah Ram Singh had most of the city’s buildings painted pink to welcome Queen Victoria and her son, the Prince of Wales.
Today, you’d probably call the shade more terracotta, but there’s no denying it enhanced some already-stunning structures. Don’t miss the Hawa Mahal - or Palace of the Winds - which features over 950 intricate, latticework windows (from where the royal womenfolk could observe life going on in the city without being seen), or the City Palace, a pastel-coloured masterpiece full of sprawling courtyards, ornate sculptures, and blooming gardens.
EXPLORE JAIPUR ON A LUXURY TRIP TO INDIA
Kolkata: embrace the outdoors
Formerly known as Calcutta until 2001, when it was changed to match Bengali pronunciation, the capital of the state of West Bengal lies along the eastern bank of the unusually-named Hooghly River (the westernmost distributary of the Ganges). Don’t miss the chance to cross over it on the Howrah Bridge, one of the world’s longest cantilever bridges.
Also worth seeing are the Victoria Memorial, an imposing museum made from white marble which now contains galleries and exhibits of paintings, sculptures, and more, the beautiful Botanical Gardens, home to over 12,000 perennial plants, and Fort William, the first British stronghold in the nation, which dates from 1696.
There are more lovely green spaces to be found at the likes of the New Town Eco Park, filled with stunning green meadows, lush gardens, lakes and trees, and Maidan, originally developed as a parade ground for the British forces, and now home to the famous cricketing venue, Eden Gardens, several football grounds, and the Kolkata Race Course.
CRUISE THE GANGES FROM KOLKATA WITH GH
Kalna: tour the temples
Located on the banks of the Bhagirathi River in West Bengal, Kalna, a town dating from at least 1,000 years ago, is named after the goddess Kali. Boasting over one hundred Shiva temples, this is one of the best reasons to come to the city. Make for the Rajbari temple complex, where you’ll see magnificent examples such as the Pratapeshwar Temple, built in 1849, embellished with exceptional terra-cotta carvings depicting myths and rituals, as well as scenes of everyday life.
Lalji, the oldest temple in the complex, dates to 1739; the three-storied structure is topped with 25 distinctive pinnacles. Next to it is Krishna Chandra, built in a similar style. Across the street you'll find the amazing Naba Kailash, two concentric circles of intricately carved temples dedicated to Shiva. The inner circle is made up of 34 white temples symbolising pure thought; the outer circle contains 74 temples symbolising the everyday world.
VISIT KALNA ON A TOUR WITH ATUL KOCHHAR
Goa: find peace and serenity
Colonised by the Portuguese in the 16th century, today Goa is a mesmerising mix of colourful architecture, lush greenery, and breathtaking beaches. If you’re a sunseeker, head to South Goa for the ultimate in relaxation, and seek out the more alluring resort towns of Palolem, Agonda, and Colva.
This part of the region is also perfect for wildlife-lovers and trekkers, as it’s home to the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary - where you might spot panthers, gazelles, or sloth bears - and the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary, home to leopards, spotted deer, and even pythons and cobras. A lot of Portuguese heritage has been preserved here, including magnificent ancient churches, picturesque villages, and colourful buildings.
If you want to connect with Goa’s past as part of the hippy trail, head north to boho Anjuna beach, which still has many guesthouses, cafes and art galleries run by former flower children.
Jodhpur: feel the blues
If a Pink City doesn’t do it for you, head to India’s Blue City: Jodhpur. It’s so-called thanks to the profusion of blue-tinted houses and buildings in its oldest neighbourhood. The suggested reasons behind this include the fact that they were painted this way to repel termites, that the colour reflected the sun’s rays, thus keeping interiors cool, or that they marked out that they were homes for the Brahmins, priests of the Indian caste system.
Either way, it makes for an atmospheric stroll as you pass buildings in dozens of different shades, from cornflower to sky blue, azure to cerulean. One of the best views of the whole district comes from the battlements of the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort, one of India’s biggest fortifications. The city also gave its name to jodhpur riding trousers, originally worn by Indian polo players, then adopted by equestrians worldwide.
The Ganges: explore life along the river
One of the most famous rivers in the world, the Ganges stretches for over 1,500 miles from the Himalayas to the Bay of Bengal. Along the way it provides life and spiritual sustenance for millions of people, as it’s considered by Hindus to be a goddess and a life-giving force. They believe that bathing in the river cleanses the soul, and that spreading the ashes of loved ones can improve their karma and lead to salvation.
On a cruise down the Ganges, you’ll see all manner of rituals being performed, from baptisms to cremations, seeing a side of India unlike any other. Some of the most sacred sites along its length include Prayag (Allahabad), Haridwar, and Varanasi (Benares).
You can see many of these incredible destinations on an amazing tour of India which takes in the Ganges, Delhi, Jaipur.
Browse more extraordinary journeys from Good Housekeeping Holidays by downloading our latest brochure.
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