Iconic NYC bar visited by Teddy Roosevelt, Annie Oakley recruits ex-Waverly Inn chef

A New York hospitality mogul is bringing in famed Waverly Inn chef John DeLucie to help a 150-year-old tavern near the South Street Seaport regain its luster, Side Dish has learned.

Eytan Sugarman — whose restaurant empire includes White Horse Tavern, Hunt & Fish Club and the Made In New York Pizza chain — has quietly bought and reopened the Paris Cafe as he continues to double down on New York City’s recovery from the pandemic.

Opened in 1873, the Paris Cafe once saw the likes of Teddy Roosevelt, Thomas Edison and Annie Oakley belly up to the hand-carved wooden bar.

In later years, Bob Dylan and Lauren Bacall were seen among its loyal patrons.

The 3,900-square-foot, 75-seat pub still features the original bar and mirror, along with wood-and leather-banquetes in the dining room.

“It’s like a diamond that has been buried under the earth,” Sugarman told Side Dish.

“We are going to polish it up and put in a new food and beverage program while keeping the neighborhood culture.”

Sugarman said he plans on keeping the historical integrity of the spot, at 119 South Street near the old Fulton Fish Market, but the pub will add a “French-inspired” menu created by DeLucie – the chef who used to serve $55 mac and cheese to the Waverly Inn’s A-listers and now runs the West Village jewel Ambra Italia Trattoria.

“You know how I like old New York things, and this is really a gem,” DeLucie told Side Dish.

The tavern survived a flood during Hurricane Sandy but ultimately shut down during the pandemic. T

hat’s when the landlord first mentioned the space to Sugarman.

It reopened last November and Sugarman brought in DeLucie to revamp the menu after recently buying a majority stake in Ambra.

DeLucie is also known for revamping another classic, the Empire Diner in West Chelsea, which has been around since 1976.

He said he’s excited to come to another “emerging” neighborhood.

Paris Cafe joined Sugarman’s new Hudson Street Hospitality company, which includes nightlife veterans Matt Shendell as COO, Richie Romero as chief branding officer and Shaun Rose as chief marketing officer.

The group also owns the White Horse Tavern, at 567 Hudson St. in the West Village.

Opened in 1880, the landmarked pub was a famous hangout for Dylan Thomas, Bob Dylan, James Baldwin, Norman Mailer and Hunter S. Thompson.

Sugarman calls both 19th century spots “legacy brands.”

“There are only a handful of them left. Progress has its casualties. I’d love to be known as the guy who champions them,” said Sugarman, whose Instagram handle is “boyfromnewyorkcity.’

The White Horse is located next door to Ambra, which DeLucie opened with restaurateur Andrea Ienna last September, and quickly attracted a celebrity clientele that includes Sarah Jessica Parker, Matthew Broderick, Justin Timberlake and Chris Meloni.

Sugarman hopes to lure the same star power down to the Seaport, which has been in the midst of a transformation with the additions of Casa Cipriani and Jean Georges Vongerichten’s Tin Building in recent years.

“I believe this area will be thriving in the next five years,” Sugarman said. “It will be similar to areas like Hell’s Kitchen and the Meatpacking District.”

While Sugarman, who got his start as a nightclub owner, says New York is still in a post-pandemic recovery stage, he says he is here for the long term.

“New York is still New York. I think that ultimately we have the best and most diverse nightlife and hospitality in the world. While this is arguably not New York City’s best moment, it’s still the greatest city in the world, and will get back to where it was. I am continuing to invest here,” Sugarman said. “I’m a complete believer in New York.”

Along with the landmarked legacy spots, Sugarman will also be launching The Hudson Club, an upscale restaurant and cocktail bar on W. 55th St. that will have a similar vibe to his other midtown eatery, the Hunt & Fish Club.

The Hudson Club is in a 2800 square-foot space that was formerly occupied by Black Tap Burger, across from upscale Estiatorio Milos Midtown on W. 55th St.

It is slated to open by the end of June.

“We are creating a high-end cocktail lounge and fine-dining restaurant with the feel of a members club but open to everyone,”  Sugarman said.

We hear…that a new omakase tasting room opens in Midtown on Wednesday. Omakase Room by Shin launches in the atrium at 145 W 53rd St. The opening follows the success of Omakase Room by Mitsu. All three are from Emil Stefkov’s The Group Hospitality, which also includes sister restaurants Boucherie in the West Village and Union Square as well as Olio e Piu in the West Village.

Spearheaded by Chef Shin Yamaoka, the 15-course menu, at $225 per person, reflects traditional sushi preparation and kaiseki elements, with fish flown in daily from Japan and also locally sourced. There will be two seatings a night at its 10-seat sushi counter.

We hear…that the 14th annual Dan’s Taste’s food series launches on May 26 with its Rosé Soirée at the Southampton Arts Center, followed by Taste of Two Forks on July 6 at the Southampton Arts Center. Chefs of the Hamptons is next on July 18 at Si Si at EHP Resort & Marina, followed by Grill Hampton — where chefs battle each other in a cooking competition and tasting event on August 3 at The Clubhouse Hamptons. A new event, Dan’s White Party, at Gurney’s Montauk, closes out the summer series on Aug. 17.