How I got into the world’s most exclusive nightclub

How do you get into Berghain? That is the multi-million euro question that has eluded clubbers since the venue opened its doors in Berlin in 2004. Head bouncer Sven Marquardt and his gang of German enforcers are responsible for curating the crowd. And they do so with a savage determination that leaves around half of those who try to enter out in the cold.

On a chilly Saturday night, the Berghain queue stretches across the industrial estate on the border of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain for more than 800 metres, as it does every weekend. We can hear bass booming from within the intimidating building ahead. The queue’s atmosphere intensifies as you near the door. Any chatter or merriment that existed further back dies out.

Most people lined up are wearing the Berghain uniform, which is black and leather. Many are carrying backpacks, presumably filled with food and drink to sustain themselves while they wait in line for up to six hours.

In the surrounding area, small groups huddle to discuss tactics while swigging Berliner beers. Taxis whisk the rejected souls away to other venues. Or possibly home, to bed.

Fortunately for me, I won’t be joining the main line. I’m on the guest list. I make my way past the punters to join a significantly shorter queue. As I walk down the dirt path, with metal fencing either side caging in the crowd, my smugness turns into anxiety. I’ve been warned that a spot on the guest list doesn’t guarantee admission and that even seasoned Berghain patrons occasionally get turned away.

The extent of the mystery around the door policy has even led to the creation of BerghainTrainer.com, which allows prospective candidates to test their technique in an online simulation. Having spoken with dozens of people about how to succeed, the received wisdom is this: don’t be too drunk, avoid being in big groups, speak German, know who is playing that night, and wear black.

Other suggestions include looking as bored as possible, having a shaved head and never – ever – smiling. If you look like a tourist, it’s a no. If you look like you are trying too hard, it’s a no. If you look like you aren’t trying hard enough, it’s a no. But as long as you relax, it’s fine. So relax.

At the front of the queue is a metal barrier. Hopefuls are then invited in small groups to approach the gatekeepers. A group wearing jean shorts and football tops are quickly hit with the bouncers’ signature phrase: “Not tonight”.

One guy who looks the part and is in his mid-20s (the most desirable age bracket, apparently) is greeted with a “Hi”, to which he responds in kind and is then told to leave. As the unsuccessful candidate slopes away, the security mumble something among themselves and all burst out laughing. Some suspect the door staff simply reject people for their own amusement.

Now it’s my turn. I let my German friend do the talking and it turns out she and the man sussing us out are from the same city. We all walk through without further question.

Inside, your body is then searched for sharp objects, and small circular green stickers are placed over your phone camera. There are no photos in Berghain. The entry fee is €35 and you are given a dated orange wristband with the club’s logo and a stencil of a sheep printed on it several times. I wonder what they are trying to say.

Entering the next room you are met by dozens of people stripping off. It turns out the backpacks were stuffed with alternative outfits. People have queue attire and Berghain attire, and, without fail, the latter means less clothing. A popular choice is to wear something on your bottom half and nothing more.

Each person who checks their bag and coat (€2.50) is given a black necklace with a metal pendant engraved with a number hanging from it. It feels a little cult-like.

Inside, the club consists of two parts: Panorama Bar opens first, by way of a warm up to Berghain, the main event. The dark, smoke-filled room is lit with red strobes. Techno, Berlin’s signature sound, is blasting through one of the club’s famously high-quality sound systems, and everyone is having a good old boogie.

It’s five in the morning in a blink of an eye but things are only just getting started. Berghain is renowned for its stamina. This weekend the club opened on Friday night and stays open continuously until the clock strikes 12am on Tuesday.

If you don’t get in, Berlin has around 140 other clubs happy to cater to your needs. That’s one of the reasons why there were 12.1 million people who visited the city last year, with 29.6 million overnight stays.

Berlin’s vibrant clubbing culture is one of the city’s biggest draws. This was highlighted when the Berlin techno scene gained Unesco’s cultural heritage status in March in a nod to its cultural contribution to the city.

The Berlin Club Commission said it was “another milestone for the city’s techno producers, artists, club operators and event organisers”. The latest announcement followed the German federal parliament decision to make Berlin clubs “cultural institutions” in 2021. They were previously considered entertainment venues, thrown in with brothels and casinos, but now have the same legal status as museums and opera houses.

These two moves mean that clubs are entitled to tax breaks, planning protections, subsidies and other funding to protect them from rising costs.

The measures have helped protect the health of Berlin’s nightlife in a tough environment that is seeing late night venues close in droves in London and across Europe. Indeed, the latest data from the Night Time Industries Association revealed that 3,011 businesses have shut down in London since March 2020.

Berlin’s nightlife doesn’t appear to have suffered in the same way. Recognising the importance of these spaces is key to that, it seems.

Sadly, despite my best efforts, I didn’t have the energy to stay until the Berghain section of Berghain opened. So the next day, I rallied and headed back to the club.

By 6pm on Sunday I’m joining the “re-entry” line. Berghain has a policy of allowing you back in for €5 if you have previously entered at one point over that given weekend. This allows partygoers to rest up, do their laundry, feed the cats and then carry on partying.

This time I walk through without exchanging a word, and get into Berghain at around 9pm. Tonight the outfits are more extreme. Gangs of men with shaved heads wearing bondage gear and gimp masks march towards the main part of the club. The high ceilings and enormous scale of the club are impressive. It’s hard not to feel giddy.

There is a wrap-around steel balcony that overlooks the main dance floor. From it you can see hundreds of people dancing in a trance-like state to the thumping electronic music. It’s incredibly hot and busy, but there is such an ecstasy in the air you are thrilled it is so lively.

Several hours later I left the club quite spellbound. Berghain exceeded all my expectations. It absolutely lives up to its reputation. Moving around that building while listening to that music among revellers who are all absolutely committed to the night gives the place an energy I have not experienced anywhere else. Maybe the bouncers are on to something.

The truth is that there is no secret sauce to making it past the bouncers. It is a roll of the dice. Regulars say the more you go, the more likely it is they’ll let you in. I think the bouncers are largely asking themselves if you look like you are meant to be there. Will you contribute to the right overall energy?

The point is this: give Berghain a go. Follow the tips and enjoy the process. In the worst case scenario, you’ll have an anecdote, and if things go to plan, you’ll have the time of your life. A win-win in my book.