Forget Zermatt and Verbier: inside the faded Swiss resort that’s making a glamorous comeback
What connects footballing superstar Lionel Messi, A-lister George Clooney and TV personality Chloe Madeley? No, it’s not the surprise line-up for the next celebrity reality television series, rather they have all been patrons of Crans-Montana – the Swiss ski resort that’s staging a remarkable comeback after falling into obscurity.
Following its 1980s heyday, the French-speaking town has never had the same recognition as its world-famous Valais cousins, Verbier and Zermatt, but Crans-Montana is, once again, having a moment, as continued visits from Hollywood A-listers such as Justin Timberlake, and world-beating sportstars like Rory McIlroy, can attest.
Days before my arrival in December, US ski industry giant Vail Resorts announced it had bought the resort’s ski infrastructure for a cool $136 million. While many have erupted in horror about the Americanisation of the Alps, I can’t say the news that Vail sees such value here, surprised me. I’ve been visiting since 2017, after it was introduced to me as a laidback resort bridging two Alpine villages on the right bank of the Rhône valley, nestling amid 87 miles of sun-drenched, entirely south-facing slopes.
A forgotten history
“The world’s first downhill ski race was held in Crans-Montana, in 1911 – people tend to forget that,” says Pierre-Henri Mainetti, head of sales and marketing at the resort. Before Verbier hosted the Freeride World Tour or Zermatt World Cup races, a group of Englishmen ran the Kandahar Challenge Cup, named after the British General Lord Roberts, from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier at 9,850ft, which gives Crans-Montana its good snow record.
The resort went on to become a hangout for the rich, famous and royal in the 1980s. British actor Roger Moore owned a chalet here and stars from U2’s Bono to Alain Delon were visitors – later on the Duchess of Edinburgh (Sophie Rhys-Jones) did a season here. But it suffered when the exchange rate to the Swiss Franc became unsavoury, and British tour operators pulled out to focus on better-value resorts in the region.
Five-star addresses
I’ve visited several times in recent years and, as Vail Resorts prepares to invest – promising an additional $35 million of investment over the next five years – there’s anticipation in the air for prosperous times to return. This season sees the latest five-star sign, in the opening of the Six Senses hotel.
Fresh December snow, glowing white in the afternoon sunshine, was swallowed up by the enveloping, exclusive darkness of the hotel’s underground entrance, as I was driven into the crucible of a luxury transformation, which has been a decade in the making. The global luxury brand has specifically selected this lesser-known resort for its first foray into ski hotels, and, from the mid-century styling of lobby to the saxophone-accompanied après-ski, its modern vibe is the perfect fit for upscale ski chic.
After a full-body massage and aromatic sauna had washed away all sense of fatigue, I commended the Six Senses’ combination of high-end service with an informal atmosphere to the hotel’s marketing boss, Titiana Mahieu. “We strive to provide an exclusive experience for our guests, but we do want you to feel comfortable with us too,” she replied. It’s a statement that could also explain Crans-Montana as a destination, which combines a sunny attitude with a resolutely high-end offering.
Further luxury openings this year include the five-star Rhodania Hotel by Hyatt Unbound Collection and the dining and nightlife experience La Ferme Sainte-Amour, of Courchevel and Megève fame. Part of the catalyst for change here has been developers taking advantage of local land prices being half that of Verbier. The popular Le Régent International School has provided the seriously wealthy with an excuse to work remotely from a ski resort, while their kids board nearby.
Unspoilt slopes and refined dining
The following morning the conditions were bluebird, with excellent visibility – the resort basks in 300 days of sunshine a year. I made the most of it (and garnered some serious leg burn) by riding the gondola network to the top of the ski area before descending 5,000ft of vertical back down to one of the four base stations.
While the skiing, across the four sectors of Crans, Montana, Barzettes-Violettes and Aminona, may not include many gnarly black runs, once you’ve spent some time here the tourist board’s “family destination” label – to honour the extensive nursery slopes – does seem something of a pigeonhole.
I stopped for a reviving lunch of champagne and flank steak at 6,500ft on the sun terrace of the Chertzeron, a luxury hotel converted from the old lift station in 2014 (the restaurant was opened in 2009). I was astounded by the views of the high mountains – facing Crans-Montana across a snow-covered horizon marches an identity parade of famous, sky-scraping 13,000ft-peaks from the Weisshorn to the Matterhorn. The high alpine air was so clear that I could see Mont Blanc.
I recalled similar amazement on another visit when I had the opportunity to splitboard up to a mountain hut as night fell. We dined on hand-served raclette before riding back down under the light of head torches. Seeing the glittering villages of Crans-sur-Sierre and Montana reaching across the wide plateau at 4,900ft emphasised both the extent of development here, but also its character. Brand new five-star hotels have been tastefully folded into stands of evergreens, and scatter their light like diamonds twinkling before a cosy Alpine fire.
Top value variety
This winter in Crans-Montana I heard more British voices than ever before, which is reflected in the UK’s tally of 12.6 per cent of the overnight visitors – the third biggest cohort in town. Michael Palmer from Plymouth told me: “I’ve never been here before, but the food and drink are amazing and everywhere is immaculate. I’ve been surprised by how chatty everyone is, and it hasn’t been spoilt by an endless stream of package holiday crowds – the dynamic lift pass prices were a revelation too.”
This isn’t a euphemism for fleecing the masses, rather a genuinely useful way to benefit from lower pricing during quieter weeks, even in high season. While busier Swiss resorts really do feel unaffordable, Crans-Montana manages to deliver luxury at a price that doesn’t make you wince.
As I leant back in my chair drinking in the Alpine panorama across the Rhône valley, the delicately honeyed taste of Petite Arvine – grown in 17 vineyards across the 8,200ft of vertical terrain from Crans-Montana to Sierra – transported me up into the high cobalt sky above those crisp, snowy peaks, where my aching legs from a day on the slopes were all entirely forgotten… With more than 125 years of classy development under its belt, and new interest from property developers and tech entrepreneurs, the future looks bright for Crans-Montana.
Essentials
How to get there
Fly to Geneva with Swiss Air (flights from £140 return), then catch the train directly from the airport to Sierre, where a newly upgraded, 12-minute funicular leaves three times per hour to the resort’s station, Montana Gare. Find out more at crans-montana.ch.
Where to stay
Six Senses offers Crans-Montana’s only ski-in/ski-out five-star hotel experience. The hotel has two restaurants, spa and an in-house ski shop. Doubles cost from £780pp/pn.
