Food and Wine Contribute to the Unique Flavor of Kohanaiki
The dream of a home in Hawaii rests on more than the mere vision of a house. It’s the concept of a certain lifestyle, a chance to slow down, savor a unique environment, explore one’s health and wellness, and pursue one’s passions in a community of family and friends. That’s the promise of Kohanaiki, a private residential club set on 450 stunning acres along a mile-and-a-half stretch of coastline on the Big Island.
Here, reminders of a rich history blend comfortably with the property’s 21st-century amenities. Cultural artifacts nearby, including petroglyphs and fishponds, speak to the legacy of Hawaiian royalty, like King Kamehameha I, who spent time in the Kona area. A concern for sustainability and conservation also has shaped the development of the club—from its extraordinary 67,000-square-foot clubhouse and spa and its 18-hole, Rees Jones–designed golf course to the property’s organic farm. There are myriad opportunities for other activities as well, including water sports at the beach club, boating and fishing, fitness and yoga, and tennis and basketball.
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But perhaps nothing speaks to lifestyle like the enjoyment of food and wine. Kohanaiki is privileged to have Andy Myers—one of the world’s select group of master sommeliers (and the only one on the Big Island)—design the wine and beverage program for all its restaurants. Among the highlights of a long stellar career are his seven years as beverage director of José Andrés’ ThinkFoodGroup. Now he’s sharing his experience and enthusiasm with the club’s members. Before making recommendations—whether that involves specific wines, grapes, or areas of the world—he asks questions, “trying to suss out what will make folks happiest.” As he points out, “Any great wine list should, first and foremost, appeal to the end goal of providing comfort to the guest.”
There’s plenty to choose from on Kohanaiki’s extensive wine list. Myers has ensured there are recognizable favorites but adds, “I also think it is essential to highlight wines that the average drinker might not think to explore.” Along with offering major new world producers, he says, “I also look to introduce and inform members about wines that are incredibly ‘Hawaii friendly,’ like German rieslings, Muscadets, Cru Beaujolais, and Chablis,” among others.
Ongoing wine education is a big part of Myers’ program for the club. Once a month he curates a Wine 101 class that highlights a region, varietal, or style of wine paired with a small bite from the kitchen. There’s also a Winedown Wednesday, during which he’ll showcase a lesser-known white and red. And once a quarter he hosts a Somm Slam: “I invite another master sommelier to Kohanaiki, and we pair a different wine with each course of the chef’s tasting menu. Members vote on their favorite pairing.” With Myers at the helm, you can be sure every pairing is a winner.
As for the food side of the equation, that is the realm of Executive Chef James Watts, who presides over Kohanaiki’s farm-to-fork culinary philosophy. A veteran of renowned international kitchens, Watts was notably at the three-Michelin-starred French Laundry, Hana Maui Resort, and Sal Salis Resort on Ningaloo Reef in Australia. His cuisine emphasizes fresh ingredients sourced from more than 40 local and Hawaii-based farms, nurturing close ties with fishermen, farmers, and ranchers. On his menus, for example, are fresh line-caught fish, lamb chops from upcountry ranchers, and beet poke and spring greens from the organic garden.
Kohanaiki members have two restaurants to choose from. At the clubhouse, there’s Kōnane, which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and features chophouse-style fare as well as a sushi bar, along with panoramic sunset views. The outdoor Beach restaurant has a more casual vibe. The setting is the perfect place to enjoy classic Hawaiian regional cuisine—and to do with your toes in the sand while being caressed by tropical breezes.
An unprecedented amenity at the club is the Kohanaiki brewery, which produces small-batch beers and seltzers on-site. Master brewer Steve Balzer makes use of fresh fruit from around the island in his specialty microbrews, which are reserved for members and guests.
Meals shared with good friends are just one aspect of the feeling of ohana (family) that prevails throughout Kohanaiki. It’s embedded in the lifestyle of the community and gives the club its unmistakable personality.
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