A fjord city fringed by the great outdoors - an expert guide to Saguenay
Why go?
There’s a real wow factor to the natural beauty of Canada's Saguenay Fjord. An off-shoot of the St Lawrence river in the province of Quebec, it is one of the world’s longest fjords, measuring some 80 miles, with cliffs rising 1,000 feet. In the port city of Saguenay, must-sees include the special La Fabuleuse show, telling the story of the region. The great outdoors is on the doorstep.
Cruise port location
Saguenay is the umbrella name for 14 communities; the major ones are Chicoutimi, Jonquière and La Baie, where ships dock at Port Saguenay’s single berth. When additional ships arrive, passengers are tendered in, where they are usually welcomed by actors from La Fabuleuse, the spectacle depicting the region’s history.
There were 59 planned stopovers in Saguenay in 2019, with eight ships docking for the first time. Visiting lines included Hurtigruten, Cunard, Seabourn, Holland America Line, Princess Cruises and Viking. Check the cruise schedule here.
Can I walk to any places of interest?
In La Baie, boutiques sell local crafts, such as textiles and soaps. The Musée du Fjord explains all about the fjord, both above and below the surface. Nearby, the curious Pyramide des Ha! Ha! is a huge art installation, made from 3,000 triangular red and white “Yield” road signs.
Getting around
On the days when cruise ships are in port, two continuous Hop-on, Hop-off bus services run from the pier: one to Chicoutimi, the other in and around La Baie (stopping at attractions such as the Fjord Museum). To explore further afield, sign up for one of the ship’s excursions.
What to see and do
A must is La Fabuleuse Histoire d’un Royaume, with a cast of 200 actors. The other highlight is the national park itself, which encompasses the fjord and its shoreline. Excursions can range from hiking and sea kayaking to boat trips and helicopter rides.
What can I do in four hours or less?
Choose between sightseeing and activities, but don’t miss La Fabuleuse. This extravaganza covers 400 years of regional history, with music, horses, classic cars and even fireworks. Performances are scheduled to tie in with the arrival of cruise ships. See the English-language version and then go backstage for cocktails with the actors. Then take an easy walking tour to learn about Chicoutimi. This stop on a traditional First Nations’ trading route was settled by French fur traders in the 17th century.
At the Old Pulp Mill, you can see how water power was harnessed for making paper a century ago. Or travel back further in time at the Site de la Nouvelle-France, a living history museum, where costumed interpreters demonstrate how the original French settlers lived.
Foodie excursions feature local cheese making and blueberry sparkling wine; fans of artisan crafts can visit glassblowing workshops or a family-owned goat farm that produces mohair. Skim across the fjord aboard a small but fast Zodiac craft for a high-octane adventure.
What can I do in eight hours or less?
The great outdoors is calling! The Saguenay Fjord National Park includes not only the fjord itself but both shorelines. And it is huge so, rather than organise your own transport, take one of the excursions offered by your cruise ship. You can get out on the water or explore on land; some excursions combine both. Even better, there is something for all activity levels. Board a boat for a nature cruise down the fjord; great fun is going for a paddle in a sea kayak.
On land, the park offers 75 miles of well-marked hiking trails. In the Baie-Éternité sector, for example, the path up to the Bellevue lookout provides a decent workout – with wide-open views as a reward. Spend time in the Discovery and Visitor Centre, which focuses on local wildlife, such as moose and peregrine falcons. Finally, if you want a real thrill, book a helicopter ride and look down on Mother Nature’s handiwork: mountains, forests, rivers and that magnificent fjord.
Eat and drink
French-Canadians love good food made with local produce: lake fish and wild game, goat and cow’s milk cheeses, craft beers, French-style crusty bread and fruit tarts. Blueberries (bleuets) are dipped in chocolate, made into jam, pies, even beer. A Québec speciality is tourtière, a filling meat pie.
Don’t leave without…
Québec province is known for its arts and crafts. Right at the cruise terminal, craft stalls sell locally-made textiles, leather goods, jewellery and ceramics that make great souvenirs. More shops are within walking distance: for First Nations’ crafts, such as dreamcatchers and leather bags, head for Authentique Origine.
Need to know
Best time to go
With the boom in autumn cruises during what’s known as the “foliage season”, Saguenay has come in to its own between early September and mid-October. The skies are clear and sunny, but temperatures can be cool, especially in the evening. Always pack layers, including a jacket to keep you cosy in wind and rain.
Overall, the season is getting longer, with the first of the cruises arriving in early May (average temperature 12°C/54°F). June, July and August are warm, averaging around 23°C/73°F. Towns are rarely crowded as most non-cruise boat passengers come for the great outdoors.
Safety
Whether you venture out on your own or with a group, this region is one of the safest in Canada; but, as ever, take the same precautions that you would at home.
Closures
Attractions, museums and shops are open when cruise passengers are in town.
