Five key fashion takeaways from COP28
Samata Pattinson, the CEO and founder of cultural sustainability organisation Black Pearl, played a key role in developing the programming for the first ever culture and entertainment pavilion at COP28 – the 28th United Nations Climate Change conference that took place in Dubai in December 2023. This programme put fashion and culture on the agenda at COP for the first time.
Pattinson hosted multiple panels with representatives from leading luxury brands, including Prada, Gucci and Versace; interviewed Ellie Goulding about climate action in a fireside chat; and hosted a the COP28 Global Action closing event.
Below, she shares her key takeaways from the global summit, and how this is likely to impact both consumers and the fashion industry at large in 2024.
When fashion finally joined the agenda at COP28
The UN’s first COP summit, an annual gathering uniting global stakeholders to collectively tackle climate change, occurred in Berlin in 1995, and has continued annually since. Yet, despite heightened awareness of the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry, it has surprisingly remained absent from COP discussions.
However, for the 2023 edition, fashion finally showed up and took a seat at several tables. Sustainable fashion greats pitched up to contribute to the conversations taking place in Dubai, from influential names such as Stella McCartney and Ellen MacArthur to pioneering organisations such as Fashion Revolution and the Global Fashion Agenda, along with some of the most forward-thinking brands, start-ups and material innovators.
Though the summit's overall outcomes reflected insufficient and slow action to tackle climate impact, conversations highlighted various solutions needed to transition to a more sustainable fashion industry – from circular solutions like rental and resale, offering a way for fashion enthusiasts to enjoy novelty without exacerbating overconsumption, to brands prioritising durable products and taking responsibility for end-of-life (known as the Extended Producer Responsibility scheme). Broader discussions also focused on the role of policy and investment in scaling up positive impact.
But for many the question remains: why is it crucial for the fashion industry to be actively involved in these conversations?
Here are five key fashion takeaways to note from the summit:
1/ The fashion industry is over-reliant on Fossil Fuels
We all know fossil fuels are a big part of the problem, but how many of us are aware of just how reliant the fashion industry is on fossil fuels? Outside the immense amount of coal and gas used in the production of our clothing, over 50 per cent of our clothes are made from polyester, which is derived from oil. Campaigns such as Fossil Fuel Fashion (championed by the Iranian-American social entrepreneur and activist Sophia Kianni), are working to raise awareness of fashion’s dependency on oil, and the importance of scalable alternatives to virgin polyester. This is an important topic to follow as it plays a key factor in fashion’s role to help mitigate climate change, and will see the material composition of our clothing change over time.
2/ We all need to act to support biodiversity
At this year's summit, a crucial concern surfaced: the fashion industry's reliance on biodiversity – essential for human life and raw materials. The ‘Bee The Change’ campaign, spearheaded by ethical clothing brand Pangaia and the Trillion Bees coalition, launched at COP28, highlighting the complex link between clothing, biodiversity and pollinators, stressing their pivotal role in global ecosystems. The campaign is dedicated to preserving bees and other pollinators, and numerous other businesses are now joining the effort. Fashion directly impacts these winged insects via human-induced factors like pesticides, habitat loss and climate change. Expect nature-inspired collections linking attire to its origins to become widespread; in this case, with bees showing up on apparel, at restaurants and even airports around the world.
3/ Material innovation, smart design and circular business models are vital
Material innovation and smart design remains high on fashion’s priority list in the transition towards more sustainable and circular practices. Shoppers will continue to see a steady flow of innovative new-gen alternatives to traditional materials, along with an increase in the use of recycled fibres. This focus was demonstrated at COP28 through Stella McCartney's Sustainable Market which epitomises this shift, showcasing innovative materials such as grape-based leather and tree-cellulose sequins. Collaborating with LVMH, the exhibit unveiled transformative technologies — employed by start-ups through to established brands — offering plant-based alternatives to plastic, animal leather and fur, and regenerative alternatives to traditional fibres.
The shift towards circular fashion could also redefine the shopping experience for citizens. Instead of solely aiming to purchase new items, shoppers might embrace a fashion ecosystem where renting and refurbishing high-end garments becomes as routine as buying them – allowing access to high-end clothing without the commitment of ownership. Luxury brands are also increasingly introducing repair and refurbishment services for their premium collections, encouraging customers to look after their clothing and pass pieces down to the next generation. This shift encourages a more sustainable approach to consumption and invites creative collaboration through an environmentally conscious approach to fashion exploration and healthy reutilisation.
4/ The fashion industry is key for championing sustainable culture
Fashion often adopts culture for trends without truly understanding or respecting it, missing opportunities for sustainable solutions. Brands should consider citizens' cultural backgrounds – including socioeconomics, ethical values, and ethnicity – fostering genuine connections and understanding what sustainability looks like through diverse perspectives. By extending concern beyond the operational impact on people, fashion can shape cultural values towards sustainability, setting an example and prioritising varied sustainable practices worldwide.
My new cultural sustainability organisation, Black Pearl, hosted discussions at the COP28 Entertainment + Culture pavilion, engaging with activists, the African Biodiversity Network, and even Ellie Goulding. These discussions highlighted the power of fashion, music and culture in connecting with global audiences on climate change through personalised storytelling, relatable impact, and uplifting voices from the Global South.
5/ We all have a role to play in driving positive change
Interconnectivity between people and the environment is crucial, and the demand for fashion brands to reflect values has surged. Next year, brands will prioritise citizen engagement, involving their communities, and seeking feedback and insight. Shoppers now seek representation of their perspectives in what is being made and how, transitioning from playing the passive role of consumer to engaged community members.
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