Fear of God’s Steady Evolution
Lately I feel like every time I scroll through social media, I come across an article, TikTok, or Instagram about the virtues of quiet luxury. Fashion folk are obsessed with talking about what it is, how to master it, and who’s doing it well. It’s rare for American designers to be part of the discussion, especially newer brands (save for the Row), but take one look at recent collections from Fear of God and it’s clear that founder Jerry Lorenzo is changing the narrative.
This time last year, Fear of God presented its first collection in two years, Eternals, via lookbook. Bazaar called the range “real fashion for the era of fake trends.” Full of elegantly slouchy pieces in a palette of neutral tones, the collection was meant to leave the wearer feeling confident, sophisticated, and free to live outside of trends. Just a few weeks ago at the Hollywood Bowl, Lorenzo continued this train of thought with his first-ever live fashion show—although he was slightly hesitant to call it that. “I didn’t want to promote this as a fashion show or a presentation,” Lorenzo told me over Zoom post-show. “It was just an evening with Fear of God. We wanted to share some music with you and take you on a journey—and through this journey share a new collection with you.”
The result? An event that somehow felt grand and intimate at the same time. “I just really feel convinced that my purpose is to do a new thing that is outside of traditional definitions or expectations,” says the founder. “This was just an attempt to create a little bit of a different experience around what it is like when you enter into a room where someone is sharing with you for the first time something that they’ve creatively been working on for a long time.”
While other designers jump from inspiration to inspiration depending on the season, Lorenzo considers this collection a continuation of previous conversations Fear of God has started through its designs. “There’s some intention in the repetition,” Lorenzo points out when I ask about specific shapes and colors the brand tends to gravitate toward. Though soft marigold, snap-pea green, and chocolate brown were mixed into the assortment this season, the collection also featured classic Fear of God beige, camel, and black—tones the brand has come to be known for. In other hands, this could have read as boring or uninspired. But with Lorenzo’s considered touch, codes of the house, as with any other luxury brand, begin to form. “Our point of view is becoming more and more clear, not even to ourselves, but to our audience,” Lorenzo points out. “The message hasn’t changed. We’re just constantly becoming a better version of what we set out to be.”
Tailored yet roomy suiting is always a highlight in any Fear of God collection, but this time around it was exciting to see Lorenzo try his hand at new-for-the-brand shapes and pieces like oversize jackets, fur coats, sexy tank tops, and buttery leather separates. Small touches like knotted rope belts, leather gloves, and oversize bags added a rich finish.
In the past, a collection like this would have solidified my belief that Lorenzo was auditioning for one of the big European houses. Now, I hope he continues to go his own way. Lorenzo’s evolution as a designer—with Essentials, main line Fear of God, and soon a collaboration with Adidas—is adding a jolt of excitement to American design and is quietly setting a precedent for what it can look to like to be a player in this landscape.
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